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#1
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From someone who has not seen an unworn nor a worn one, what signs should I look for? |
#2
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From someone who has not seen an unworn nor a worn one, what signs should I look for? |
#3
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In article <1166540436.725475.279810 (AT) t46g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com>, british1500 (AT) gmail (DOT) com <british1500 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: From someone who has not seen an unworn nor a worn one, what signs should I look for? They can 'look' perfect but be worn to the point where they are ineffective. Assuming the rest of the hub is ok but the gears crunch it's safe to say it's worn. Gotcha. |
#4
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2. Downshifting to 2nd was a special task. I had to slowly and carefully apply pressure down for it to smoothly downshift. If I did it quickly(I wasn't racing or anything) it got crunchy. Sometimes "2" can occur if you've got the wrong grade of oil in the |
#5
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In article <1166548370.001163.14600 (AT) i12g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com>, british1500 (AT) gmail (DOT) com says... 2. Downshifting to 2nd was a special task. I had to slowly and carefully apply pressure down for it to smoothly downshift. If I did it quickly(I wasn't racing or anything) it got crunchy. Sometimes "2" can occur if you've got the wrong grade of oil in the gearbox. |
#6
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My impression is that baulk ring synchro boxes work best on a diet of straight engine oil SAE 30 or 40. EP oils tend to defeat the object by either providing too much lubrication for the synchro cones or rotting them. Of course Sir could always learn to double declutch... Ron Robinson |
#7
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| My impression is that baulk ring synchro boxes work best on a diet of straight engine oil SAE 30 or 40. EP oils tend to defeat the object by either providing too much lubrication for the synchro cones or rotting them. Of course Sir could always learn to double declutch... Ron Robinson Would you recommend the same for an all-syncro gearbox with a LdN J-type overdrive? I guess I'll have to do some research. I forgot what gear oil I put in previously. Some blue-colored name brand bottle(yeah that narrows it down). But right now the next order of business is getting that freakin' brake ring off. |
#8
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british1500 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1166559586.217897.56820 (AT) i12g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com... My impression is that baulk ring synchro boxes work best on a diet of straight engine oil SAE 30 or 40. EP oils tend to defeat the object by either providing too much lubrication for the synchro cones or rotting them. Of course Sir could always learn to double declutch... Ron Robinson Would you recommend the same for an all-syncro gearbox with a LdN J-type overdrive? I guess I'll have to do some research. I forgot what gear oil I put in previously. Some blue-colored name brand bottle(yeah that narrows it down). But right now the next order of business is getting that freakin' brake ring off. I think you will find that most (if not all) cars with Laycock overdrives were meant to use a straight engine oil in their gearbox/overdrive assemblies. There is a theory that the cone clutch in the overdrive does not like an EP oil and can slip, but I don't entirely believe it. Ron Robinson I had this problem with a 50 year old army lorry , after changing the |
#9
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I had this problem with a 50 year old army lorry , after changing the gearbox oil (EP 80/90) the gear box became "crunchy"....... |
#10
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Lou Bricant wrote: I had this problem with a 50 year old army lorry , after changing the gearbox oil (EP 80/90) the gear box became "crunchy"....... You found a "50 year old army lorry" with a synchro gearbox? What was it? Bedford RL, mechanically similar to the S type , introduced 1953, the |
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