Hello

I'm not normally on this NG, but I have some questions I'd like to ask
folks who know more than me about this type of stuff.

I have an '86 F150 with the 4.9L straight 6 and 4 on the floor (granny
low for 1st). Nothing fancy here, just a work truck.

I have about $1000 to 2000 to spend, and I'd like to do some serious
work. I'll be doing most myself, as I am a fairly competant mechanic
from engine rebuilds to any other non-machinst work... I'm not
familiar with some auto lingo (mostly the damned abbreviations), but
most I understand...

I want to improve the springs to at least 3/4 ton capacity for towing.
Should I look for both front and back? (suggestions?)
I was given a Ford 351m400 v8 rebuild. I want to put this in, along
with possibly a manual overdrive tranny to replace the basic 4 speed.
(suggestions of parts to look for, adaptability, etc???)

I have a newer bed/tailgate, hood and drivers door to replace as well
(Chicago salt and 21 years old). I'll be replacing the fuel tank and
lines, as well as brake lines and drum slaves/emergency brake
cables... I'll be repairing a damaged roof hole from where a visor
was attached with the trusty mig welder we got for Christmas!

Mainly the truck will be used for towing old tractors to and from my
place, shows and family homes/farms, once/twice or 3 times a month in
the summer.

I can't justify replacing it when I have most everything to 'rebuild'
it. Besides, my wife cries everytime I talk about replacing
it...(She's quite attached, as it was her first vehicle ever, so
there's an odd sentimental part to this as well)

Any input for lower cost ideas and suggestions are welcome. I will
not compromise on the suspension/reliability by cutting corners,
though.

Thanks

OldIron

"OldIron" <OldIron (AT) OldIron (DOT) com> wrote


Ahh, I love that bodystyle, and I'm one of those rare guys who likes the 400
engine. You need to get an LMC catalog. www.lmctruck.com Every little
thing you'd need is in there.

The 400 is very upgradable. Until the new generation of engines came out in
the 90's the 400 had the longest stroke of any of Ford's V8's, and can be
made a torque monster. Bore and Stroke are 4.00 x 4.00.

You should also look at the door placard and find out what level of braking
that truck came with. You might want to upgrade those if they're not much.

CJB

Thanks for the link and info!
I'll check the brake specs before in case we need to improve them.
I honestly don't know the difference between the 351m and 351m400. (in
response to DavidM) I was told, and being free I didn't delve too
deep, that the engine is a 351m block that Ford modified, thus the
'm', to 400 cubic inches.
Once we pull the oily plastic off, I'll find the data plate and know
more...
I have an old Holley 850cfm double pump we'll probably throw on it, as
it appear to bolt right to the manifold. If there's a fit issue, I
may have it cleaned up by a machine shop. Might be overkill, but it's
a big air hungry engine...
Anyone have any ideas on the 5 speed manual? Are there multiple types
for that age truck? Recommendations? I figure I'll look in
bone-yards unless other have better advice...
Thanks again!
OldIron

On Thu, 17 May 2007 16:06:55 GMT, "CJB" <colonyparkwagon (AT) excite (DOT) com>
wrote:

There is a 351M AND a 400. There is also great controversy as to what the
"M" stands for. I was told by more than a dozen veteran Ford Parts people
that it stood for "modified" because it was a "modified Cleveland". Any
time at all in a ford dealership and you will hear it called a 351 modified.
And the difference between the 351M and the 400 is the crankshaft. The
stroke is different. The 4" bore is the same.

Steve




"OldIron" <OldIron (AT) OldIron (DOT) com> wrote

Steve

Then, would my guess be right that the data plate for a 'true' 400
would just indicate such, and a 351m would has something to that
effect on the dataplate?

OldIron

On Sun, 20 May 2007 08:13:17 -0500, "Steve Barker"
<ichasetrains (AT) some (DOT) yahoo.com> wrote:

Of the ones I've seen, they've all had "351M/400" on the data plate. The
truth lies in the tag on the coil, which is rarely there after the first
time it comes off.

Steve


"OldIron" <OldIron (AT) OldIron (DOT) com> wrote

Yes, the longer stroke would require a shorter rod . Probably a different
piston also. I'm not sure about that one.



s


"David M" <NOSPAM (AT) nospam (DOT) com> wrote

"Steve Barker" <ichasetrains (AT) some (DOT) yahoo.com> wrote

That doesnt make sense to me. If the stroke is longer it means the crank
throws are longer. If you use a shorter rod, then wouldnt the piston skirt
hit the counter weights on the down stroke? So wouldnt the opposite be
true?

Whitelightning

Well if you use the same rod on a longer stroke, then the piston pops out of
the hole. So a shorter rod and a different pin location are the trick.

Steve


"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2 (AT) verizon (DOT) net> wrote

"Steve Barker" <ichasetrains (AT) some (DOT) yahoo.com> wrote

same piston and the same rod length. We take a 350 block , turn a 400
crankshaft mains down to 350 specs, and get a 383, using ether the standard
5.7 length rod or a 6 inch rod for radical compression even though the 400
has a much longer stroke than the 350.. In fact most all the chevy small
blocks used 5.7 rods regardless of stroke. We did have to watch valve
pockets though to avoid interferance.
I am not up on fords. I like the the 289 and the 302 engines. The 351
Cleavland was a favorite as well, but I never really did a lot of mods on
them. Lets face it a 351 4V Cleveland with a 4 speed in a 70 Cougar really
didnt need any mods, it was a go like hell off the show room floor. Same
with a 289 K pulled from a Fairlane or Comet and slammed into an early
Falcon., or shoe horned into a Pinto Wagon, actually a 289/302 into a Pinto
was ins some ways easier than the more common small block into a Vega.

Whitelightning