I did all the brakes, recently. However, while pulling my 9K trailer, it
seems all wasn't well.

The pedal went to the floor a bit too much. After pumping them once, they
braked better. I looked at the rear drums, and wondered if they had ben
turned too much, or need some adjustment.

What is the normal diagnostic for this? A master cylinder or what? And how
to you check for this? Thanks a bunch.

Did you adjust your rear brakes up? New or not, they need to be
adjusted. I usually click them a few times until the drums are
rubbing the shoe linings, then back off 2 or 3 clicks.

Any good machine shop would know if your drums are too wide (thin)
Most drums have the max. size marked on them. You use a special tool
to check run-out on drums.

If you didnt replace master cyl, wheel cyl, calipers, or rubber brake
lines, I doubt you have air in your system.

djdave

On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 04:50:35 GMT, "Victor V" <slackamn (AT) aaahawk (DOT) com>
wrote:

"djdave" <noname (AT) fake (DOT) com> wrote

Thanks, Dave. Yes, I replaced front hoses and calipers, and rear shoes.
Feels like a brake adjustment, even though I adjusted them up when I
replaced them.and I wonder how come the self adjusters aren't effective? I
bleed the crap outta the system, even got rid of the old brake fluid. Thanks
for any help!!

anyone know empty weight is on a 99 super duty 5.4 engine auto,reg cab long
bed
"Victor V" <slackamn (AT) aaahawk (DOT) com> wrote

Check the brake pedal for fade. If it fades with engine not running,
and all the vacuum bled off (pump the thing 10 or 12 times to bleed
off vacuum) then you have air in the lines.
I usually bleed the furthest away from the master cyl. first (RR) then
LR then RF then LF

On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 13:19:25 GMT, "Victor V" <slackamn (AT) aaahawk (DOT) com>
wrote:

"djdave" <noname (AT) fake (DOT) com> wrote

Ok, good. What's the symptom for booster failure and master cylinder
starting to go? I had to adjust the back ones up last month before I did the
brakes, and it felt the same way. It's possible a previous guy had switched
the adjusters, though.......the recent brake job he did I had to re=do
completely.

VV

First off it were me, I would check vacuum to the brake booster. After
confirming good vacuum, a quick check of power booster condition is
easy test. Engine turned OFF, pump pedal slowly untill a solid
pressure is felt. Now hold pedal (If pedal depresses slowly at this
time a leak is occuring somewhere in the juice circuit). Back to the
booster while still holding pedal pressure start engine. Now if vacuum
is pulling a GOOD booster the pedal will go DOWN slightly. This
happens because you are now being "assisted" in pushing the pedal. If
the pedal does not feel like got "assisted" then you must check for
problem.
If all this checks out, and your pedal is spongy at a stoplight, or
sinking, either there is air in the brake lines or the brake master
cylinder is leaking internally.

Hope this covers all of the bases, Victor.

djdave


On Tue, 07 Nov 2006 15:34:09 GMT, "Victor V" <slackamn (AT) aaahawk (DOT) com>
wrote: