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Oil pressure and check engine light problem!!

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abusyman
 
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Default Oil pressure and check engine light problem!! - 04-12-2006 , 01:50 AM






Oil pressure and check engine light problem!!
First let me tell you I have a 1989 F150 2 wheel drive 302. I decided
since my motor wasn't running the greatest to swap motors with another
truck that my brother had.. I know it ran great and sounded awesome..
Didn't seem to have anything wrong with it. One prob was that his truck
is a 1988 with just a few less Kms then my 89. The wiring harness was a
little different and very similar.. So I changed the motor. I decided
to keep the wiring from my previous motor because the conectors from
the 88 didn't fit into mine.. I pluged all where they were suposed to
be and voila.. My truck is running now and sounding good...

My one problem I do have however is the oil pressure dial drops quite
abit untill I press on the gas pedal. And after about 15 mins of
driving my truck, the check engine light comes on.. After I shut the
truck off, and leave it for lets say 2 mins to run into the store. Its
all good till another 15 mins or so and then the check engine light
back comes on again... A friend of mine told me that maybe the computer
has to reset itself once a new used motor is put in. Says it has to
wait something like 50kms or so to reset itself.. Is this just a wise
tale or is this actually true?
I know before I changed motors, this motor was running like a top. I
don't get it.
If I change the oil pump, should the check engine light go out or is
the check engine light there for relays and electrical probs?
Any ideas on the oil pressure problem and the check engine light?
Please email at abusyman (AT) rogers (DOT) com as I don't come on here to often.
Not my computer.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out. I am at a loss.
Vince
abusyman (AT) rogers (DOT) com


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Jim Warman
 
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Default Re: Oil pressure and check engine light problem!! - 04-12-2006 , 02:14 AM






If you want an answer bad enough, you'll come back.... if you can retrieve
e-mail, you can access NGs...

Your friend is almost right.... but since you would have most surely had the
battey disconnected during the swap, the KAM would have been cleared quite
some time ago.... FWIW, on yours, learned strategy would pretty much be
limited to fuel trims.

I'm thinking that you have two concerns... for the oil pressure, the only
way to be sure is to check the oil pressure with a master gauge... recreate
the conditions where your pressure drops.

For the check engine light.... all I can suggest is (at the very least)
having memory codes scanned... A better bet is to have the quick test
performed including KOER if necessary....

"abusyman", eh? I went to work Tuesday at 8:00 AM and I finally got home
here in the last few minutes.... after 12:00 PM.... A word of advice from
one busy man to another.... ask for what you need, not for what you want...




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Backyard Mechanic
 
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Default Re: Oil pressure and check engine light problem!! - 04-12-2006 , 09:05 AM



"abusyman" <abusyman (AT) rogers (DOT) com> wrote:

Quote:
Oil pressure and check engine light problem!!
First let me tell you I have a 1989 F150 2 wheel drive 302. I decided
since my motor wasn't running the greatest to swap motors with another
truck that my brother had.. I know it ran great and sounded awesome..
Didn't seem to have anything wrong with it. One prob was that his truck
is a 1988 with just a few less Kms then my 89.

Quote:
My one problem I do have however is the oil pressure dial drops quite
abit until I press on the gas pedal. And after about 15 mins of
driving my truck, the check engine light comes on.. After I shut the
truck off, and leave it for lets say 2 mins to run into the store. Its
all good till another 15 mins or so and then the check engine light
back comes on again...
You have two problems:

EEC IV, at least those years.. doesnt know oil pressure. {caveat to
forestall argument}

Still have the old engine? Look at the Oil Press sender, now look at the
one in the 88 engine. Different size, right? The larger is an actual
variable sender, the smaller just a switch. Ground the sender wiring
lead to block, if it goes midrange of gauge, it has a resistor in the
circuit.

read out the codes... net is full of diagrams showing how to do with a
test light and jumper.

Ny guess is it's an EGR related code


--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!


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