1999 Duratec DOHC Ford Taurus Not Blowing Air Anymore

Hi there

I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 9
Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I bough
someone else's headache.

I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped at
light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of th
trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive, th
A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally jus
quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just ha
it "recharged" two weeks ago

We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, bu
everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off
waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower woul
restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/gre
connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced th
blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:

Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure i
he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but no
great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing, bu
when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe that
but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the likel
source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The coolin
fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is thi
related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was O
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for th
pair!!)

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically adep
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in th
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me t
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'
appreciate all the help I can get

Thanks for any help

Shannon Lofti
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) co
Joliet, Illinoi

PS LOVE the board

LoftisX4 wrote:

Hi there,

I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 99
Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I bought
someone else's headache.

I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped at a
light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of the
trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive, the
A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally just
quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just had
it "recharged" two weeks ago.

We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, but
everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off,
waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower would
restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/grey
connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced the
blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:

Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure if
he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but not
great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing, but
when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe that,
but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the likely
source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The cooling
fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is this
related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was O2
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the
pair!!)

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically adept
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd
appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Loftis
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) com
Joliet, Illinois

PS LOVE the board!

Look at the AC compressor clutch plate. Is it turning? If not, it's electrical
to the compressor, which could be the low pressure switch, low refrigerant
pressure, a fuse, or something else that keeps the electrical AC clutch from
engaging. If 12 volts IS found at the AC clutch connector, it's most likely the
clutch. If the AC clutch is engaged, is the liquid line to the evaporator (like
a heater coil) getting cold/frosty? If yes, it's something in the AC control
unit that's mounted in the dash. Don't put much faith in just having had the
system recharged two weeks ago; it was charged because some refrigerant had
leaked out. If the leak wasn't fixed (or there's a new leak), the refrigerant
has leaked out again.

"Sharon K.Cooke" <scooke (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

LoftisX4 wrote:

Hi there,

I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 99
Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I
bought
someone else's headache.

I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped
at a
light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of
the
trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive,
the
A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally just
quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just
had
it "recharged" two weeks ago.

We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, but
everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off,
waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower
would
restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/grey
connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced
the
blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:

Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure
if
he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but not
great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing,
but
when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe
that,
but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the
likely
source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The
cooling
fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is this
related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was
O2
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the
pair!!)

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically
adept
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd
appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Loftis
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) com
Joliet, Illinois

PS LOVE the board!

Look at the AC compressor clutch plate. Is it turning? If not, it's
electrical
to the compressor, which could be the low pressure switch, low
refrigerant
pressure, a fuse, or something else that keeps the electrical AC
clutch from
engaging. If 12 volts IS found at the AC clutch connector, it's most
likely the
clutch. If the AC clutch is engaged, is the liquid line to the
evaporator (like
a heater coil) getting cold/frosty? If yes, it's something in the AC
control
unit that's mounted in the dash. Don't put much faith in just having
had the
system recharged two weeks ago; it was charged because some
refrigerant had
leaked out. If the leak wasn't fixed (or there's a new leak), the
refrigerant
has leaked out again.

Uhh, I think she's saying the blower motor isn't running all, not that
it won't blow cold air...

To the OP, blower motors draw a lot of current. If you're sure the
fuse is good, I'd guess there is an high resistance connection in the
blower motor circuit. I don't have the wiring diagrams here so I can't
point towards any specific component or location,

Rick wrote:

"Sharon K.Cooke" <scooke (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote in message
news:42BC104D.99FC764F (AT) cox (DOT) net...
LoftisX4 wrote:

Hi there,

I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 99
Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I
bought
someone else's headache.

I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped
at a
light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of
the
trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive,
the
A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally just
quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just
had
it "recharged" two weeks ago.

We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, but
everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off,
waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower
would
restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/grey
connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced
the
blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:

Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure
if
he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but not
great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing,
but
when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe
that,
but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the
likely
source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The
cooling
fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is this
related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was
O2
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the
pair!!)

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically
adept
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd
appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Loftis
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) com
Joliet, Illinois

PS LOVE the board!

Look at the AC compressor clutch plate. Is it turning? If not, it's
electrical
to the compressor, which could be the low pressure switch, low
refrigerant
pressure, a fuse, or something else that keeps the electrical AC
clutch from
engaging. If 12 volts IS found at the AC clutch connector, it's most
likely the
clutch. If the AC clutch is engaged, is the liquid line to the
evaporator (like
a heater coil) getting cold/frosty? If yes, it's something in the AC
control
unit that's mounted in the dash. Don't put much faith in just having
had the
system recharged two weeks ago; it was charged because some
refrigerant had
leaked out. If the leak wasn't fixed (or there's a new leak), the
refrigerant
has leaked out again.

Uhh, I think she's saying the blower motor isn't running all, not that
it won't blow cold air...

To the OP, blower motors draw a lot of current. If you're sure the
fuse is good, I'd guess there is an high resistance connection in the
blower motor circuit. I don't have the wiring diagrams here so I can't
point towards any specific component or location,

Ahhh, right you are; my mind was still on another problem from someone else.
Anyway, Ford has periodic high current connector problems, so it may be this
(similar): http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article67.html

Rick wrote:

"Sharon K.Cooke" <scooke (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote in message
news:42BC104D.99FC764F (AT) cox (DOT) net...
LoftisX4 wrote:

Hi there,

I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 99
Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I
bought
someone else's headache.

I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped
at a
light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of
the
trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive,
the
A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally just
quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just
had
it "recharged" two weeks ago.

We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, but
everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off,
waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower
would
restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/grey
connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced
the
blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:

Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure
if
he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but not
great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing,
but
when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe
that,
but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the
likely
source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The
cooling
fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is this
related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was
O2
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the
pair!!)

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically
adept
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd
appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Loftis
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) com
Joliet, Illinois

PS LOVE the board!

Look at the AC compressor clutch plate. Is it turning? If not, it's
electrical
to the compressor, which could be the low pressure switch, low
refrigerant
pressure, a fuse, or something else that keeps the electrical AC
clutch from
engaging. If 12 volts IS found at the AC clutch connector, it's most
likely the
clutch. If the AC clutch is engaged, is the liquid line to the
evaporator (like
a heater coil) getting cold/frosty? If yes, it's something in the AC
control
unit that's mounted in the dash. Don't put much faith in just having
had the
system recharged two weeks ago; it was charged because some
refrigerant had
leaked out. If the leak wasn't fixed (or there's a new leak), the
refrigerant
has leaked out again.

Uhh, I think she's saying the blower motor isn't running all, not that
it won't blow cold air...

To the OP, blower motors draw a lot of current. If you're sure the
fuse is good, I'd guess there is an high resistance connection in the
blower motor circuit. I don't have the wiring diagrams here so I can't
point towards any specific component or location,

I ran what you guys said by my husband, who was WAY lost. None of th
manuals we have help us find the parts you're talking about. A lot o
blather about EPA standards, etc and so forth. Can you tell me wher
the clutch plate is? Are we talking about the "wheel" that attache
to the motor? If so, then no, that isn't turning. And where is th
fuse I should be looking at? He checked the box under the drive
dash, and said everything looked good. Is there anyone in th
Chicago area who could take a look at this? I'm scared to screw i
up

LoftisX4 wrote:

I ran what you guys said by my husband, who was WAY lost. None of the
manuals we have help us find the parts you're talking about. A lot of
blather about EPA standards, etc and so forth. Can you tell me where
the clutch plate is? Are we talking about the "wheel" that attaches
to the motor? If so, then no, that isn't turning. And where is the
fuse I should be looking at? He checked the box under the driver
dash, and said everything looked good. Is there anyone in the
Chicago area who could take a look at this? I'm scared to screw it
up.

If your husband checked the blower motor connector with a voltmeter and there
was current at the connector and he installed a new blower motor (as you wrote
earlier), it just about has to be this:
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article67.html

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 03:13:13 -0500,
loftisx4 (AT) aol-dot-com (DOT) no-spam.invalid (LoftisX4) wrote:

Hi there,
I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was O2
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the
pair!!)

Don't count on it being the O2 Sensors. If the code is P0171 you've
got more than a sensor gone - better than 90% sure.

The Duratec 24 valve engine is plagued by vacuum leaks between the IRC
throttle body and the heads. Pricy little gaskets and a good
afternoon's work to change them.

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically adept
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd
appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Loftis
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) com
Joliet, Illinois

PS LOVE the board!

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 08:53:17 -0500, "Sharon K.Cooke" <scooke (AT) cox (DOT) net>
wrote:

LoftisX4 wrote:

Hi there,

I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 99
Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I bought
someone else's headache.

I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped at a
light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of the
trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive, the
A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally just
quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just had
it "recharged" two weeks ago.

We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, but
everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off,
waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower would
restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/grey
connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced the
blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:

Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure if
he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but not
great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing, but
when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe that,
but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the likely
source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The cooling
fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is this
related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was O2
sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the
pair!!)

I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically adept
when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the
market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to
walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd
appreciate all the help I can get.

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Loftis
loftisx4 (AT) aol (DOT) com
Joliet, Illinois

PS LOVE the board!

Look at the AC compressor clutch plate. Is it turning? If not, it's electrical
to the compressor, which could be the low pressure switch, low refrigerant
pressure, a fuse, or something else that keeps the electrical AC clutch from
engaging. If 12 volts IS found at the AC clutch connector, it's most likely the
clutch. If the AC clutch is engaged, is the liquid line to the evaporator (like
a heater coil) getting cold/frosty? If yes, it's something in the AC control
unit that's mounted in the dash. Don't put much faith in just having had the
system recharged two weeks ago; it was charged because some refrigerant had
leaked out. If the leak wasn't fixed (or there's a new leak), the refrigerant
has leaked out again.

You are correct as far as you go - but low refrigerant will not make
theblower fan stop working - which is what I understand happened.
There is a wiring or switch problem somewhere. Get a good manual, a
test light and a VOM. Armed with a bit of patience you can track it
down.

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 19:13:26 -0500,
loftisx4 (AT) aol-dot-com (DOT) no-spam.invalid (LoftisX4) wrote:

I ran what you guys said by my husband, who was WAY lost. None of the
manuals we have help us find the parts you're talking about. A lot of
blather about EPA standards, etc and so forth. Can you tell me where
the clutch plate is? Are we talking about the "wheel" that attaches
to the motor? If so, then no, that isn't turning. And where is the
fuse I should be looking at? He checked the box under the driver
dash, and said everything looked good. Is there anyone in the
Chicago area who could take a look at this? I'm scared to screw it
up.
Not 100% sure, but I suspect there is a fuse box next to the battery.