 | |
4.6 Motor Question
Ford Vehicles Discussions About Ford Cars (alt.autos.ford)
 |
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#21
 
| |||
| |||
|
Re: 4.6 Motor Question -
04-26-2007
, 03:57 PM
|
Oil pressure trending lower over many years usually just means normal main bearing and crank wear, but dropping in days or even hours could be a blown head gasket or failing oil pump. In one of those situations, by the time the idiot light comes on or the fake gauge SUDDENLY drops to zero, it's time for a new engine. |
injector leaks- unless the engine isn't running) or oil viscosity
breakdown (which has happened to me) or "foaming" which has happened
on my brother's car - both due do crappy oil. Saved both engines by
getting an oil change IMMEDIATELY upon noticing the pressure drop.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
#22
| |||
| |||
|
|
On Apr 26, 11:20 am, Sharon Cooke <sco... (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote: Oil pressure trending lower over many years usually just means normal main bearing and crank wear, but dropping in days or even hours could be a blown head gasket or failing oil pump. In one of those situations, by the time the idiot light comes on or the fake gauge SUDDENLY drops to zero, it's time for a new engine. And how often does this happen? I've had a couple of head gaskets fail in my life, and both times the first symptom was overheating. I suppose you can get a massive oil leak, but a massive coolant leak seems more likely. And even when oil pumps were driven off the distributor gear, gradual failures were uncommon. With todays crank driven pumps, it is much more likely that an oil pump failure will be sudden and in that case the light is as good as a gauge. The same three vehicles I've had for many years: 1990 Lincoln Mark VII - 158.9K miles 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII - 109.8K miles 1990 Toyota Truck - 237.8K miles A combined total of over 1/2 million miles with 10K oil changes and ZERO internal engine problems on any of the vehicles. I haven't had any sort of significant engine failure in over 20 years. The last time I had one was a 1978 Fiesta with a 140,000 miles. I managed to burn a piston (clogged EGR, and drving flat out for 35 miles). I have a 35 year old Dodge dump truck with an unknow number of miles (well over 100,000). The only thing that has failed in the oil system is the crappy electric oil pressure gauge. I did have the idiot light on the Mark VIII turn on once at 70 mph, but the OP gauge was showing a steady 60 psi, so I just kept going. When I got the car up on ramps at home, I found it was the factory oil pressure snap switch that had failed; without the real OP gauge, I would have been really inconvenienced out there on I-35 at 2 AM, so I'll just keep running with OP gauges in all my vehicles. For you it seems like a reasonable thing. You understand what gauge movements mean and you pay attention to the gauges. I am suggesting that you are the exception. Most vehicle owners don't pay attention to the gauges, and when they do, they often misinterpert them. It must really upset you that car makers are now installing computer controlled temperature gauges. The gauges appear to move like old style gauges, but actually the needle position is determined by the PCM and not the water temperature. Both my current Nissan and Fords have this sort of gauge. They are not completely go/no go gauges, more a sort of incremental gauge with the position dictated by the PCM. I also have voltmeter gauges on all my vehicles, since I don't trust the other idiot light for the charging system either.  -I am surprised you don't have an old style ammeter. Voltage meters are OK, but to be truly useful they need to be calibrated. The OEM ones just have a few poorly located markings and by the time you figure the voltage is too low, it can be too late. Even with the poor quality OEM gauges, if you pay careful attention to the position of the needle you can determine that it is lower than normal, but again this is only useful for people who pay attention and understand what voltage gauge movements imply. Most OEM gaguges are just for looks. They aren't particularly well calibrated and in many cases aren't direct reading gauges. It used to be that the Germans actually included calibrated gauges, but it has been a couple of decades since I owned a German car. I have no idea what the Germans are doing these days. In recent years I have owned Japanese and Domestic cars that use non-calibrated, poorly marked gauges that are no better than go/no go indicators. Ed |
to burst into flame quite well without the "outside help" of an
aftermarket ammeter install. In any event, a voltmeter is much more
useful than an ammeter, and WAY safer, per this article:
http://www.egauges.com/ATM_Tips.asp?...terammeter.htm
#23
| |||
| |||
|
|
Consumer grade electrical oil pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate - particularly over a long period of time. They may well have better than 5% accuracy when new, but over a period of time they drift significantly. Mechanical gauges are better at remaining accurate over time, but then you have the danger of a failed oil line. It is no fun having hot oil dribble onto your feet. |
pressure gauge or hose dump oil behind the dash. The electronic dashes
use transducers that cost $15 from the dealership and rarely fail and
are always accurate within 2 or 3 psi when checked against my mechanical
gauge. I have seen one inaccurate transducer; owner brought it in for
low oil pressure. Everyone else who complains of low oil pressure needs
an overhaul.
Most drivers are too stupid to know what is or isn't good oil
pressure, and I see quite a few drivers dump that lucas shit in the
engine to get the psi higher. But I don't think that's a good argument
to use an idiot light over a real gauge.
I do not know of any commercial truck makers that equip $20,000
engines with just idiot lights. All of the recent gauges are however
equipped with an idiot light in addition to the needle. Comes on with
low pressure, loss of signal, or excessively high signal. LED "bulb."
Seems to me an optimum compromise. Needle for drivers who read the
book, light for drivers who don't.
Granted, it's a different market, where engines do routinely wear out
simply due to mileage and most drivers do not own the driven vehicles.
But direct-reading gauges aren't difficult or expensive.
--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
#24
| |||
| |||
|
|
Your missing his point. You are among the 2% of people that actually look at, know how to interpret, and will respond to, a real oil pressure gauge. Most drivers haven't a clue. How many times have you heard inquiries that started with "My xxxxx light has been coming on for about a month..." For the majority, the go/no-go gauge or light is actually better than a gauge. A light will at least get their attention. |
to change the oil.
#25
| |||
| |||
|
|
Tom Adkins wrote: Your missing his point. You are among the 2% of people that actually look at, know how to interpret, and will respond to, a real oil pressure gauge. Most drivers haven't a clue. How many times have you heard inquiries that started with "My xxxxx light has been coming on for about a month..." For the majority, the go/no-go gauge or light is actually better than a gauge. A light will at least get their attention. I knew someone that thought the oil light was supposed to be a reminder to change the oil. |
A long time customer had an early 70s Buick. Very well maintained, high mileage. As
was common on Buick engines of that vintage, the oil pump was weak and the oil lamp
would flicker at idle on hot days.
He gave the car to his 30ish yo son. After a few weeks, the son brings the car in
pouring oil from every opening and barely running. I drained 7 gallons of oil out of
that engine! When the oil light would flicker, he would add a quart or 2 of oil. He
"estimated" 2 quarts at a time by the amount of oil running down his driveway!!
The father was such a smart man and well informed customer, he was a retired
Steelworker. The son had a Masters in Electrical Engineering. Go figure!
#26
| |||
| |||
|
|
Fordfan wrote: Tom Adkins wrote: Your missing his point. You are among the 2% of people that actually look at, know how to interpret, and will respond to, a real oil pressure gauge. Most drivers haven't a clue. How many times have you heard inquiries that started with "My xxxxx light has been coming on for about a month..." For the majority, the go/no-go gauge or light is actually better than a gauge. A light will at least get their attention. I knew someone that thought the oil light was supposed to be a reminder to change the oil. Or how about a low oil level indicator. True story: A long time customer had an early 70s Buick. Very well maintained, high mileage. As was common on Buick engines of that vintage, the oil pump was weak and the oil lamp would flicker at idle on hot days. He gave the car to his 30ish yo son. After a few weeks, the son brings the car in pouring oil from every opening and barely running. I drained 7 gallons of oil out of that engine! When the oil light would flicker, he would add a quart or 2 of oil. He "estimated" 2 quarts at a time by the amount of oil running down his driveway!! The father was such a smart man and well informed customer, he was a retired Steelworker. The son had a Masters in Electrical Engineering. Go figure! |
she blew out a head gasket on her fox..
Please bring back *analog* gauges...
They are not that hard to read.
--
Don't drink water, fish have sex in it!
|
« Previous Thread
|
Next Thread »
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
Linear Mode
| |
Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.