"jim" <jimclemente (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

You need to trace the wires fro the circuit and check them out. Make
sure signal is getting from point A to point B. Make sure you have a good
connection.

I had a customer with a similar problem. Took his car else where, to the
tune of $1000 worth of parts changing. I found the problem in 3 hours of
testing. A bad wire connection at the DIS connector. I temp fixed it, and
told the customer to drive it for 2 days. The amount of time I was told it
would take to get the connector in at the dealership's parts department I
went to.

The customer is still driving on that temp fix, leaving me out for the
new connector I bought.
Charles

Hi all,

I'm really stuck on this one. Hopefully someone could help me out.

My 93 Bonneville just died and it would crank but would not start.

Initial troubleshooting
- No injector pulse when turning on the ignition
- no spark when cranking.
Replaced crank sensor
- brand new AC Delco
- still no injector pulse and spark.
Replaced ignition control module
- taken from a local wrecker (Donor 92 Buick Regal)
- no spark on sparkplugs when cranking
- Injector would pulse when turning on ignition
Replaced PCM (computer)
- purchased rebuilt from local shop
- no spark on sparkplugs when cranking
- Injector would pulse when turning on ignition

Any other ideas? Kinda stuck on this one, I don't think that there is
any more parts to replace.

Thanks,

Jim

In article <t_pEc.174751$DG4.88191 (AT) fe2 (DOT) columbus.rr.com>,
"Charles Bendig" <rarepartshunter (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:

Dont'cha just love it???

I'm sitting on a new fuel tank for a 66 Dodge Coronet 500 to the
tune of $250 that some a-hole insisted I get for him 2 months
ago...

Neil Nelson wrote in alt.autos.gm

A lot of places require that special ordered parts be paid for
before they are ordered, or at least a substantial deposit be
placed. Even J.C. Penney's does it.

--
Dick #1349
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
~Benjamin Franklin

Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com
email: dickcr (AT) comcast (DOT) net

"Neil Nelson" <nonelson (AT) sbcglobal (DOT) net> wrote

Yea, I do. On items over $50 I make the customer give me the money first
when I do not have their vehicle. Depending on my finical situation, I make
them give me the money first even when I have their vehicle.

That gas tank you could sell pretty easy at either a Swap meet, or on
E-Bay and get most if not all of your money back.
Charles

Jim, has that Bonnie got VATS or Passlock? I'm not well-versed enough
to know when the change occured between VATS, Passlock I, and Passlock
II, but my 1990 'vette has VATS, and a 1997 Sunfire I just worked on
had Passlock I. FYI, VATS has a little "pill" in the key (my 'vette's
is black plastic surrounding a little slice of metal in the shank of
the ignition key); Passlock has a resistance built into the ignition
switch (so does Passlock II).

The point being it could be the vehicle's anti-theft circuit. On my
'vette (back when my dad owned it) I remember it not starting at all.
One Passlock I (and II I believe) it will start momentarily and then
die); if you have VATS, you might just need to bypass the VATS system
(or Passlock). Check www.bulldogsecurtity.com and
http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm (the latter an excellent resource)
for how to bypass the particular systems. IMPORTANT: don't do what I
did; install the resistance on a Passlock I system (probably similar
on VATS and II) by just hard-wiring the resistance; no joy. Instead,
install using a relay to put the resistance across the system as
indicated in the second link (http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm)
above.

HTH

--HC

jim <jimclemente (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Pass Key II, and Pass Key III are both considered VATS. VATS is the acronym
for Vehicle Anti Theft System. Once the engine is started and in run, VATS
will not be able to shut it down.
--


hboothe_no_spam (AT) gte (DOT) net <hboothe (AT) gte (DOT) net> wrote