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Fixing P0113 Intake air sensor high voltage
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#11
 
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Re: Fixing P0113 Intake air sensor high voltage -
04-09-2007
, 08:04 AM
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On Apr 7, 10:12 pm, "Mike Marlow" <mmar... (AT) alltel (DOT) net> wrote: "TheClassic" <andrew.sa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1175993749.530774.146910 (AT) e65g2000hsc (DOT) googlegroups.com... On Apr 7, 2:36 pm, ixbeavi... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: On Apr 6, 8:12 pm, "TheClassic" <andrew.sa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: I have a P0113 that I am trying to fix. I replaced the sensor first since it was easy and cheap. The sensor looked fine and unfortunately the check engine light hasn't cleared after 2 weeks (which should be ample time). I replaced the air filter shortly before the problem started, so I wouldn't be surprised if its caused by a bad wire or connection. I have the factory repair manual, which has instructions for troubleshooting this code, however I don't find them all that helpful. I've determined one of the contacts has a good ground and thats as far I've gotten. If I determine the other wire is shorted or is open, how would I go about fixing this? (I do plan on stopping at Autozone to verify that I'm still experiencing same fault and to have them reset it, before investing too much more time) Thanks for any pointers anybody can give me. As a side note, can anybody recommend a good scan tool, or a good site for researching my options? The PO113 code is described as: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input. Meaning the the computer is reading a low resistance. Here is a hook the I learned about temperature sensors: ("Temperature sensors are like women." "When women are cold, they have high resistance." "When women are hot, they have low resistance"). Here's what could be going on. You could have a bad IAT sensor, which you already replaced, a bad internal resistor in the computer, or an open in the Feed(Power) wire, or Ground wire. We can eliminate the sensor, and the Ground, assuming you checked the ground correctly as stated. What about the Feed wire at the connector? did you get power. I would recommend using a Voltmeter because the test lamp can damage the circuit going to the PCM because the PCM regulates most sensor voltages to 5 Volts. A check with the Voltmeter would be disconnect the sensor from the harness, and connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the sensor feed wire, and the negative lead to the ground wire of the connector with the sensor off and the Key in the On position not Run. the reading on the Voltmeter should be close to 5 Volts. if you get this then the wiring and the PCM is providing a good signal. If you get nothing the you have and Open in the Feed side assuming that the ground is good. If you get more than this than the PCM's internal resistor is shorted. Hope this helps. Thanks for your help. I measured 0 volts. I'm confident of my measurement of a good ground. Assuming my PCM is fine and the problem is in the feed wire, how would I go about fixing it? BTW I guess I forgot to mention this is a 2000 Chevrolet Malibu. Something is not adding up. I'm having a hard time with a guy who asks how to fix a bad wire, but also says he's confident in his measurement of a good ground. -- -Mike- mmarlowREM... (AT) alltel (DOT) net What I don't understand is how somebody who thinks using a multimeter to test for continuity between a supposed ground and a known good ground is complicated figured out how to post in a newsgroup. I was just trying to break my habit of being overly verbose. The wire is closed in a large wiring harness that snakes all through the engine compartment. I understand that I can open up the whole wiring harness, and inspect the whole length of the wire, and failing to find any apparent damage attempt to find the open by wiggling the wire and looking for voltage or measuring continuity (between both ends of the open wire, I have to make sure I explain everything in case somebody thinks I don't know what I'm doing). If I'm lucky enough to pinpoint where the open is I can splice in a good wire. Alternatively I can just save myself the effort and replace the whole length of wire. Or some might suggest replacing the whole harness, since in their experience they've found that one bad wire indicates that others could fail soon and its time and cost effective over replacing one wire at a time. Or somebody may recommend that replacing the connector is a good place to start from their experience. Or maybe the best solution I haven't even thought of yet. However instead of wasting my time by typing all of that, and the time of anybody kind enough to read it, I chose to just ask "how would I go about fixing it", which really meant "how would you (assuming you won't answer unless you have some knowledge or experience) go about fixing it". The first thing I like to do is get the factory code discription. If the |
#12
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The first thing I like to do is get the factory code discription. If the description came from a scanner I don't trust it. |
correct, as that is a generic OBD-II code. A P1xxx code on the other
hand is manufacturer specific and will need to be looked up in the
service manual for the car in question.
Chris
#13
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"TheClassic" <andrew.sa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1176076204.797464.72920 (AT) y66g2000hsf (DOT) googlegroups.com... On Apr 7, 10:12 pm, "Mike Marlow" <mmar... (AT) alltel (DOT) net> wrote: "TheClassic" <andrew.sa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1175993749.530774.146910 (AT) e65g2000hsc (DOT) googlegroups.com... On Apr 7, 2:36 pm, ixbeavi... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: On Apr 6, 8:12 pm, "TheClassic" <andrew.sa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: I have a P0113 that I am trying to fix. I replaced the sensor first since it was easy and cheap. The sensor looked fine and unfortunately the check engine light hasn't cleared after 2 weeks (which should be ample time). I replaced the air filter shortly before the problem started, so I wouldn't be surprised if its caused by a bad wire or connection. I have the factory repair manual, which has instructions for troubleshooting this code, however I don't find them all that helpful. I've determined one of the contacts has a good ground and thats as far I've gotten. If I determine the other wire is shorted or is open, how would I go about fixing this? (I do plan on stopping at Autozone to verify that I'm still experiencing same fault and to have them reset it, before investing too much more time) Thanks for any pointers anybody can give me. As a side note, can anybody recommend a good scan tool, or a good site for researching my options? The PO113 code is described as: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input. Meaning the the computer is reading a low resistance. Here is a hook the I learned about temperature sensors: ("Temperature sensors are like women." "When women are cold, they have high resistance." "When women are hot, they have low resistance"). Here's what could be going on. You could have a bad IAT sensor, which you already replaced, a bad internal resistor in the computer, or an open in the Feed(Power) wire, or Ground wire. We can eliminate the sensor, and the Ground, assuming you checked the ground correctly as stated. What about the Feed wire at the connector? did you get power. I would recommend using a Voltmeter because the test lamp can damage the circuit going to the PCM because the PCM regulates most sensor voltages to 5 Volts. A check with the Voltmeter would be disconnect the sensor from the harness, and connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the sensor feed wire, and the negative lead to the ground wire of the connector with the sensor off and the Key in the On position not Run. the reading on the Voltmeter should be close to 5 Volts. if you get this then the wiring and the PCM is providing a good signal. If you get nothing the you have and Open in the Feed side assuming that the ground is good. If you get more than this than the PCM's internal resistor is shorted. Hope this helps. Thanks for your help. I measured 0 volts. I'm confident of my measurement of a good ground. Assuming my PCM is fine and the problem is in the feed wire, how would I go about fixing it? BTW I guess I forgot to mention this is a 2000 Chevrolet Malibu. Something is not adding up. I'm having a hard time with a guy who asks how to fix a bad wire, but also says he's confident in his measurement of a good ground. -- -Mike- mmarlowREM... (AT) alltel (DOT) net What I don't understand is how somebody who thinks using a multimeter to test for continuity between a supposed ground and a known good ground is complicated figured out how to post in a newsgroup. Posting in a newsgroup is easy. Trying to figure out what a person's capabilities are when they ask an open question like "how do I fix it", is something quite different. Maybe instead of trying to be a wise ass, you'd take the time to make your posts consistent. On one hand you indicate you have no knowledge (how do I fix it?) and on the other you want people to have a confidence in your previous troubleshooting. You're either competent or you're not. You have to be the one who clues people in on your competence. The advice that you're ultimately given is going to be largely based on that. I was just trying to break my habit of being overly verbose. The wire is closed in a large wiring harness that snakes all through the engine compartment. I understand that I can open up the whole wiring harness, and inspect the whole length of the wire, and failing to find any apparent damage attempt to find the open by wiggling the wire and looking for voltage or measuring continuity (between both ends of the open wire, I have to make sure I explain everything in case somebody thinks I don't know what I'm doing). If I'm lucky enough to pinpoint where the open is I can splice in a good wire. Alternatively I can just save myself the effort and replace the whole length of wire. Or some might suggest replacing the whole harness, since in their experience they've found that one bad wire indicates that others could fail soon and its time and cost effective over replacing one wire at a time. Or somebody may recommend that replacing the connector is a good place to start from their experience. Or maybe the best solution I haven't even thought of yet. However instead of wasting my time by typing all of that, and the time of anybody kind enough to read it, I chose to just ask "how would I go about fixing it", which really meant "how would you (assuming you won't answer unless you have some knowledge or experience) go about fixing it". Wow. All of that, and it looks a lot different from what you originally posted. You have to remember - most of us don't use our crystal balls on the weekend, so we have no idea what thoughts run underneath of the words you post. We simply go by the words you post. If you want a fair understanding of your words, then you have to make them understandable. As to your problem - I know of no known problems with looms that you should be aware of. If you have a broken wire, then the fundamental troubleshooting approaches of tracing it, and ohming it across its length are your best starting point. Fix any discovered breaks. -- -Mike- mmarlowREM... (AT) alltel (DOT) net |
so I decided to have some fun with it. I still haven't had a chance to
look at this problem any further. Thanks for everybody's help!
#14
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On Apr 7, 2:36 pm, ixbeavi... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: On Apr 6, 8:12 pm, "TheClassic" <andrew.sa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: I have a P0113 that I am trying to fix. .... If I determine the other wire is shorted or is open, how would I go about fixing this? ... As a side note, can anybody recommend a good scan tool, or a good site for researching my options? ... A check with the Voltmeter would be disconnect the sensor from the harness, and connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the sensor feed wire, ... Thanks for your help. I measured 0 volts. I'm confident of my measurement of a good ground. Assuming my PCM is fine and the problem is in the feed wire, how would I go about fixing it? ... |
can use a sharp-pointed meter probe to prick through the insulation at
various points between the PCM and the sensor. If you can find
something to support the wire while you prick it, it will be a lot
easier on your fingers.
It's still a PITA, but that lets you (a) test where it's relatively
easier to get at the harness, and (b) isolate the problem area. BTW, I
had a bad wire on my Cavalier, where the harness was rubbing on an
engine mount. OTOH, this car had had front end damage before I got it.
George
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