Interesting. 2000 and lower were the model years I was looking at when I was
thinking about buying one, as I could not afford a newer one. Like I said,
my step-brother's is a 2000+, likely a 2002 I would imagine. Thanks for the
info though.

"Tim & Linda" <lt.stoops (AT) askme (DOT) net> wrote

Daughters problems with her Jimmy have been electrical and transmission.


"80 Knight" <80_knightREMOVEME (AT) rogers (DOT) com> wrote

I have a 2000 gmc jimmy havent had to many serious problems with it.
But i feel its soon to come starting was a problem a while back would
not start all the time would turn over and over but wouldnt start.

My door hinges suck 2 they sag and like he said on the sonoma that
spring is in the way so i am not looking forward to doing that repair.
the front end of the suv suspension wise is soon to haunt me. Partially
my fault so i cant cry to much. It's just that those dag on jeeps think
they can have all the fun lol

well I replaced the hinge pins without any major problems.But the stupid
door still drags on the striker pin. The pin has no adjustment to it.You
can see that the gap between the door & front fender are not the same.
I've been told to put a jack under the door & jump on the inside of the
floor board close to the out side. Talking about doing the Bo & Luke Duke
way of making body adjustments. I'm open for a good idea on a fix.
I think that what really pisses me off is that they charge so much for a
rolling piece crap that won't stay together.
I had a 1967 F-100 ford that had over 500,000 miles on it before I let it
go and all of the door hardware was original and no draging or wind noise.

"runamuck" <c7overturf (AT) nospam (DOT) bellsouth.net> wrote

Poor comparison....to the best of my recollection, Beau and Luke 'didn't
need no stinkin' doors'.

You've already had one. Why do you need another?

"runamuck" <c7overturf (AT) nospam (DOT) bellsouth.net> wrote

(It really sounds as if you have a truck that has been in a collision with
the door hinges welded back improperly. It's not that critical a task to
get it right when replacing; but one must have correct tools (jigs) and it
really helps if he has watched/helped an expert do it. A 1st-class body
shop in our area, with ~25 employees, uses one man to attach practically all
doors which lack adjustment other than bending.) BTW:be sure & put the jack
as far toward back end of door as possible; also have door as nearly closed
as possible on 1st attempt(s). Then, as last resort, have it open at right
angle to side of truck. Place jack, with like a 4X4 block of wood, against
the horizontal under-door section--NOT against the pinched, vertical
end-bottom portion.
HTH & good luck. s

"runamuck" <c7overturf (AT) nospam (DOT) bellsouth.net> wrote

"runamuck" <c7overturf (AT) nospam (DOT) bellsouth.net> wrote

At this point, it seems like bending is the next alternative to try.
(It really sounds as if you have a truck that has been in a collision with
the door hinges welded back improperly. It's not that critical a task to
get it right when replacing; but one must have correct tools (jigs) and it
really helps if he has watched/helped an expert do it. A 1st-class body
shop in our area, with ~25 employees, uses one man to attach practically all
doors which lack adjustment other than bending.) BTW:be sure & put the jack
as far toward back end of door as possible; also have door as nearly closed
as possible on 1st attempt(s). Then, as last resort, have it open at right
angle to side of truck. Place jack, with like a 4X4 block of wood, against
the horizontal under-door section--NOT against the pinched, vertical
end-bottom portion.
HTH & good luck. s

Well thank all of you people that gave me advice on the door problem that I
was having.
I've been a mechanic or technician what ever you what to call us tradesmen
now a days for over fourty years.I now know that the autos being produced
in this here united states of America "SUCK!" and the manufactures have
never had the technician or the owner in mind when they made a car or
truck. The public is given plastic junk that won't even last until the
damn thing is paid for. We have only ourselves to blame.
We as consumers of the products being offered to us need to let the
automobile manufactures know we want better quality that is affordable to
all of the consumers of this great country.
We must let them know how we feel or we will continue to be sold junk at
outrageous prices with shortened life spans.

Sorry about the rant got on a roll there for a short time. Back to the
stupid door on my Chevy 1500.Well after new pins & a inside door handle or
two the door was even harder to open.
So as a last resort I went to the GM body shop to ask even more questions
about my door dragging shop foreman brought out a 8'long bar with a
adjustable striker post on it & striker latch on the end. In about 3 1/2
minutes & what we in the business call a bend adjustment the door closed
perfectly. The body shop foreman told me that over half the cars being
produced by GM today encounter some kind of door closure problems with in
a few months of purchase of a new vehicle. Now what does that tell us.
Thanks again for your help.

"runamuck" <c7overturf (AT) nospam (DOT) bellsouth.net> wrote

It tells me a few things;

1- If you had followed the advice you got 2 weeks ago, you could have saved
yourself a trip to the bodyshop.

2- A 3 1/2 minute repair?.....seems pretty consumer friendly to me.

3- Either you or your body shop foreman is likely prone to exaggeration.

Glad you got it fixed.

Dave