<no (AT) way (DOT) com> wrote

Why are electric in-tank fuel pumps vehicle and engine specific? Glad
you cared enough to ask:

#1. Amount of fuel needed, GPH (Gallons Per Hour) required to keep the
fuel pressure high enough. This varies by fuel line size, and length.

#2 Wiring & Voltage. Not all vehicles of the same model are wired the
same. Nor will all of them supply the same amount of power to the pump.

#3 Sending Unit Type. Not all sending units are the same. Some are short,
and skinny, others take a tall and fat pump. Design specifications from the
pump determine size of the pump.

#4 Type of pump. Some pump systems include a frame rail mounted fuel pump as
well. Most common on fuel injected Ford Trucks and Vans.

#5 Amount of fuel thru-flow required to cool the pump. Put in a pump that
need more fuel thru-flow then the rest of the system will allow and it will
burn out the motor, and over heat the gears. As well as cause a
resistance, electrically that can cause wires to melt.

Reasons NOT to use cheep replacement electric submerged fuel pumps:

#1. Adaptations of Designs to work in multiple vehicles. Basically they
figure if you put XYZ number of amps & volts to this model of pump, it
will flow this much. If you change those factors to ZYX it will flow this
much. Yet if you go YXZ it will really pump.

This is one of the reason such pumps fail early. They are not
designed for your specific application. Longevity of the part past their
minimal warrantee period is not good. They want a vehicle owner to buy a
pump every 2 years.

#2 Wiring. Most Multi-fit pumps you have to connect your own wires at
different points depending on what your installing them in. As well as
hack and splice the wires off your old pump. A good brand Direct
replacement pump will be a simple remove wiring connector, and plug back
in. No wiring modifications required.

#3 Modifications to sending unit. Multi-Fit pumps are not made to fit your
sending unit, they are made so they will work in 100+ different sending
units (atleast the exterior case). You more often then not end up banding
the sending unit to fit around it, or having to cut and modify it. This
can lead to fuel gauge float issues. A Good quality Direct Replacement
will not require you to do more then move the tabs, and put them back
with in 1/16th of an inch.

#4 Pump Gears, Insulators, & Pump Motors. More often then not, these parts
are made from the cheapest materials the manufacture could get. Made to a
fraction of the quality of what was OEM. Assembled in foreign lands,
with little to NO quality control.

A good Direct Replacement pump is a whole different beast. Made to
OEM or better specification. Proper size, Flow, Thru-Flow Cooling, proper
wiring, designed to last as long as OEM or exceed OEM pump life spans.

I could go on, but I would just bore you.
Charles