Hello all,

I have a V6 Chevy S10 that eats about one battery every year or so.
It's a 2002 and I have owned it since 2004. From 2004 'till today I have
replaced the battery seven times. I've tried two different brands, Johnson
Controlls and Exide and I've always gone with the top of the line. I've gone
through and made sure the cables are tight and look to be in good shape.
I had the electrical system tested about 2 years ago by a shop that
specializes in auto electrical systems and they said the system is good.
The battery gauge always shows 14 volts, even when the battery is starting
to show signs of going bad, slow cranking starts.
The electrical is all origional, never even changed the radio or added
anything like fog lights, trailer connector or anything. It's never been in
a crash or driven hard.
Everytime it dies I have the battery tested and it always comes up bad.
I'm in Arizona and I know the desert is hard on batteries, but is it normal
to go through about one a year? This last one only lasted 9 months.
I've checked the acid levels many times and never found it low.
Do S10's normally eat batteries this quickly?
Any ideas what it could be?

Thanks for any help,

Chris

In article <%9wEm.106703$944.86093 (AT) newsfe09 (DOT) iad>,
"42" <chris150 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote:

Just a shot in the dark... perhaps a small parasitic loss, not big
enough to cause overnight starting issues is causing daily deep cycling
of the battery?

Erik

"Erik" <spam (AT) this (DOT) com> wrote

I was kind of thinking that too, but was hoping that someone else had this
problem and found a quick cure other than having to break down each
individual circuit and testing for high resistance shorts, while singling
out normal drains such as radio clock, normal seepage between contacts in
connectors and other things, broken cable strands, and failed insulation on
wires. I'm not looking forward to that kind of investagative work, but will
do it if needed.

The manager at the local Checker Auto, who is my current battery source,
said I should pull one of the cables from the battery every night and
reconnect it in the morning and see if that cures the problem. Sounds like
logical advice, but that would be a year long project, and I am hoping for a
quicker cure, though, I understand that I may not get one.

Thank you for the reply.
I do hope that someone else has other thoughts that involve less work, but I
do understand that hopes and dreams are not always consistant with reality
and I might have to face facts and travel down the longest road.

Chris

"42" <chris150 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

Measure the parasitic load and see what is happening. Just remove one
battery terminal and connect an appropriate VOM (on ammeter scale) in
series. If you have an ammeter that will store the maximum current during
that period it would be best. Normal parasitic drain should be in the range
of 50 milliamperes or less .

During the quiescent period, if you start showing spikes up to several
hundreds of milliamperes or even a couple of amps. then you need to do
some troubleshooting.

Batteries are also sensitive to heat and vibration. You might try mounting
the
new battery on a rubber pad and being sure the holddown bolts are properly
tight. If you can direct a little more external air to the battery to
avoid what
must be pretty high summer Arizona engine compartment temperatures, that
might also help.

During this year of battery life, do you check the electrolyte occasionally?
(I know, some batteries say they are sealed, but many can be opened to
top up with water or electrolyte)

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 22:22:03 -0700, "42" <chris150 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote:

Have you checked the charging voltage with a known accurate volt
meter? That's your first step. Do a running test, idle, driving and
trips.

Take it to a combatant tech to have it analyzed to find why it is not be
charged properly, WBMA


"42" <chris150 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

On Sat, 24 Oct 2009 14:38:58 -0400, "Mike Hunter"
<Mikehunt2@lycos,com> wrote:

Probably a charging/volt reg issue frying the battery, or you're
buying crap batteries.
I've had a parasitic draw on my car for years, and the batteries still
last much longer than yours.
Maybe don't drive the car as much as you though.
Car won't even start if I let it sit more than about 8-9 days.
Had the current undersized battery about a year and a half, and had
to 2 amp charge it overnight 3 or 4 times because I let it sit idle
too long.
Battery still does the job.
I'd say something wrong with your charging or crap batteries.
How are other batteries handling the heat in your location?

--Vic

42 wrote:
Not normal. I have an 02 with the original batt. in it. My 97 is on a
replacement but it also has a total of 3 batteries in it. Two matching
ones that are up front and one deep cycle that is in the rear. The back
battery runs the inverter for 110 power and for the extra lights. The
two front ones are for normal use (I do have the LEDs connected to them
when the ignition is on)
I HATE getting a call in the middle of the night and not having the
vehicle start!!!!

--
Steve W.

Thanks everyone for the quick replies. This weekend I will do some more
testing, taking into consideration your sugestions.

PeterD, I test the voltage across the terminals with the battery connected
and truck running, right??? I do have a Fluke 77 thats been very accruate so
far.

Thanks,
Chris

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 22:29:37 -0700, "42" <chris150 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote:


yes test across the battery, engine running. At idle, and at 2000 RPM.
Post the results. The Fluke should work just fine for this test.