Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal

#11

"Steve Barker" wrote

Quote:

Plenty. Just pull the sub frame, then the trans. You got a better idea?
BUT it's all a moot point, because he already butchered the pan and got
it
out.

That was "one" of your options. The other was "Well DUH. You have to
remove stuff till there is MORE clearance". And how would you accomplish
"that" without removing the sub and trans?

Ian

#12

So you mean take off the right fender and cut out the right strut tower??
Should I use a torch, ,or would a sawzall work? And could you recommend a
good welder to put it all back??

John

"Steve Barker" <railphotonut (AT) not (DOT) hotmail.com> wrote

Quote:

Well DUH. You have to remove stuff till there is MORE clearance. OR pull
the trans off first.

--
Steve

=======================
Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
"eightupman" <eightupman (AT) hotmailnospam (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:OF2Qa.205466$_w.8701126 (AT) twister (DOT) southeast.rr.com...
Would actually work great if there was more than 3/4 of an inch
clearance
at
the front of the motor. But otherwise you are right...that is how they
come
apart

John

"KenG" <KenG (AT) ec (DOT) rr.com> wrote in message
news:Ez2Qa.205419$_w.8700544 (AT) twister (DOT) southeast.rr.com...
Forgive me if I show my ignorance. Does not the torque converter
separate from the transmission when the engine is separated from the
trans. It is my understanding that the main reason for allowing the
separation of the converter from the flywheel is that when MATING THEM
TOGETHER there many alignment issues that are resolved by mating the
converter to the trans prior to mating the trans to the engine. It
matters little when separating them. Someone please correct me if I am
wrong.
KenG

451ctds wrote:
I wonder if it's better to remove head, and shatter piston ? I'm
assuming
you,ve tried oiling the cylinders, and attempting to rotate in *
both
*
directions. A melted
piston might turn one direction, not the other. The mains approach
sounds
good, yank rod caps, try pushing each piston up, may wind up
torching
seized
rod [ s ]

Best of luck

#13

Hey group

Thanks for all the input. Yes, I chose to butcher the oil pan on an already
butchered engine. It worked wonderfully and saved butloads of time and
energy.

Note to Steve..If I was going to take the time and go through the trouble of
removing the subframe, then I could have UNBOLTED the oilpan and removed it
correctly, by the manual. Since I work in my driveway, and do not have any
of the specialty JXXXXX GM tools, hanging the motor off my cherry picker to
remove the subframe would have gotten in the way of removing the frame.
Also..I only own one jack, and that was strategically holding up the tranny.
Time is money and a 160K blown engine is worth little to nothing.

Thanks all again

John

"eightupman" <eightupman (AT) hotmailnospam (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

Hi,
I am in need of some guidance on the best way to get a seized motor in a
position to get to the torque converter bolts. The guy had spun a bearing
and continued to drive it (for WEEKS I might add.) Now it is locked up
and
I am assuming it is seized at the crank. It is a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am
with
a 3.1 V-6. Already have the donor motor, and just two bolts short on the
TC
prevent the removal. (managed to reach one already)

any help??

John

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Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal

General Motors Discussions About General Motors vehicles (alt.autos.gm)

Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal - 07-14-2003 , 07:22 PM

Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal - 07-15-2003 , 05:52 AM

Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal - 07-15-2003 , 06:00 AM