Dillon Pyron <invaliddmpyron (AT) austin (DOT) rr.com> wrote in
news:bov9e516qn8vjtbvv5aj1shcvq9um6nmqs (AT) 4ax (DOT) com:



The OP's igniter is abundantly available as-new from Honda, as are just
about all the mechanical parts.

But it's also expensive (about $120), which is why I suggested to the OP to
just get one from the wreckers.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thus spake Tegger <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> :

True, give that his car probably isn't worth (on the street) $120. The
car is worth much more to him, as it's not costing a car payment.
--

- dillon I am not invalid

"Always shoot first. At the very least you'll
distract the guy enough to make the second one count"
-- Lazurus Long

Exactly
considering I just dropped
New Coil
New Ignitor
New Wires
New Cap - Rotor

And I have a Timing belt w tensioner
Waterpump
and 2 accessory belts ready to go on it

AND
I just bought 4 new tires in June with less then 500 miles on them

I am getting dam close to the bluebook value
HA!

Its been raining no time to work on car

Ideas for fixing this thing are VERY appreciated

Oh the old ignitor is a NEC the new one is a Tru Tech

Hey I was just trying to figure out how the ignitor tells the coil to
fire....

What happens?

The power comes into the coil and through to the ignitor

and then the ecu tells the ignitor to cause an open in that circuit

and then the power stops going through the coil to the ignitor
and it goes out the secondary to the rotor then eventually to the plugs?

so if i put a test light between the wire comming out of the coil to the
ignitor it should blink when i crank the engine.

If not then the ignitor or the cam sensors could be bad

and if it blinks then the coil is bad

?????

<CrxChicken (AT) anonamoo (DOT) com> wrote in news:hcb44v$2kf7$1 (AT) news (DOT) telesweet.net:



I posted this link before. You apparently haven't looked at it, so here it
is again:
<http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter>

There are diagrams and everything there.

Have you tried swapping back the original igniter yet?


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

<CrxChicken (AT) anonamoo (DOT) com> wrote in
news:hcauji$2gd0$1 (AT) news (DOT) telesweet.net:




Then wait until you can swap in the old igniter (not "ignitor") and stop
speculating.

While waiting for the rain to stop, read this:
<http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter>





You've been given an idea already, which you haven't tried yet.




NEC, TEC and OKI are original Honda. This "Tru-Tech" thing is very much
aftermarket.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

No no chance yet hopefuly tomorrow I will get some time to work on it I am
dodging rain and work

I did perform the honda manual test on the original ignitor
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/igniter-operation/igniter-on-car-test.pdf

I went through all the steps which pointed to a bad ignitor
and then replaced the ignitor
still had the same simptom

then about a week later i got a new coil
put it in with new cap rotor wires ignitor
Engine ran for about 2 minutes real rough then died


http://i33.tinypic.com/dw5s9g.jpg

Here is a picture inside my Distributor with the coil removed and the new
ignitor in place

I put the old ignitor in and it fired up

I also blew out the distributor with compressed air dont know how much dust
was in there but a lot

So it is running but not normal

I dont want to touch it anymore today I dropped an ignitor screw and lost it
but i had an extra.

then thinking I better ... I put the cap bolts in a tray and put it on the
battery and then while reaching tipped that over ...

Very Not Fun Day.

but at least it started
Im sure its going to need more work









"Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote

Do you think maybe i have a bad 12v wire in the distributor that is eaten
out inside and shows good with an ohm meter if the wire gets pushed around?

If the old ignitor works it makes me wonder what the original problem was...

Maybe the coil but the ohm meter tested the coil as good

makes it hard to trust it to drive






"Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote

last question i will ask tonight

I dont even want to think what full a Honda Distributor would cost

I have seen aftermarket ones under $300 or about that
Rebuilt and new

Do you have any reccomendation on a brand?

Dorman, Cardone, Other

Also any other suggestions thanks