This morning the rotating switch that controls the heater fan would no go to
the off position. It now has a springy feel not the precise notches it had
before.

The switch is cheap enough, but has anyone removed the dash panel to get to
this? Looks like the whole unit, speedo and all has to come out.

Any tips appreciated. This will be a DIY project for sure.

BTW, this baby has 185k on it now, and I have to add no oil between changes!
And I change at 7,500 intervals (I used 7,500 mi Synthetic). Still runs
great. She's like the energizer bunny

G-Man

On Apr 9, 8:10 am, "G-Man" <g_fore... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:

Sorry, '96 Accord 4-cyl LX 5-Spd.

G-Man


"NWF_Snake" <negast (AT) knology (DOT) net> wrote

you may need to replace the whole heater/ac control box and it shouldn't
require having to take out the speedometer. look on ebay for one.



"G-Man" <g_foreman (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Not sure how your car works, buy on my 99 Civic I had to replace the
whole control unit (fan speed, temp, and function). Got the unit
online for about $275. Replaced it myself (seemed like a major
chore, until I got stereo replacing instrutions online, you have to do
99% of the work replacing the stereo to replace this unit in my car).



On Mon, 9 Apr 2007 09:10:17 -0400, "G-Man" <g_foreman (AT) yahoo (DOT) com>
wrote:

Well, looks like it was the easy fix. The knob shaft was cracked. I
super-glued it, then wrapped it was safety wire and coated it with JB Weld.

My wife was laughing, because I told her I could get a new one for less than
$10, but I wanted to try and fix this one :-)

BTW, if the panel with the control unit has to come out, that whole bezel
that also houses the Speedo and Tach has to come out as it looks like one
solid unit.

Luckily I don't have to do that!

G-Man

"G-Man" <g_foreman (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Weld or duct tape is more "redneck." I use both at times, so it doesn't much
matter to me!

A blanking plug popped out of the radiator in our Volvo a few weeks after we
replaced the unit. I went back to the shop, and they couldn't find a plug to
fit. Rather than wait for one I JB Welded a bolt in the hole. It still
works, hyuck!

My favorite JB Weld tale is from a commercial Paul Harvey used to run. Seems
a guy was out hunting and an accidental discharge of his shotgun blew a hole
in the top of his gearbox. (I get a kick out of imagining that scene.) The
story was that he drained the gearbox to pick the debris out and then JB
Welded a piece of a beer can (don't act so surprised!) over the hole, then
poured the gear lube back in. Yeehaw!

Mike

Michael Pardee wrote:
....Another Laugh!

On the '83 FE, the current engine came out of an '81 DX that had been
crunch in the front end to the extent that there was a puncture in the
oil pan from something. When I test ran the engine prior to pulling it
out and installing it into the FE, oil came out of the hole and one of
the less enlightened mechanics said that it was BIG trouble. All I did
was JB (Quick Weld) a small piece of sheet metal and there it stays to
this day, leak free.

OTOH, if you want a truly super strong metal like repair, use Devcon
titanium putty. But it costs a lot more!

JT

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull (AT) cybertrails (DOT) com> wrote in
news:IoqdnT_v7o_5FobbnZ2dnUVZ_uSgnZ2d (AT) sedona (DOT) net:




Me too. But I think this is an urban legend.

The shot would have had to drive its way through the transmission tunnnel
before it got to the cast steel/aluminum gearbox housing. What kind of shot
was he loaded with? If 7-1/2 or 9 shot, no dice. If 0 or 00, then maybe it
might be possible.

And how is it the barrel was pointed down? Most people point the muzzle UP
when entering a vehicle.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger wrote:


A lot of modern gear box designs are reincarnations of those of the
1930's where a sheet metal plate replaced what used to house the shifter
mechanism. So, it's entirely possible he was telling the truth.

JT