Re: Brake servicing FAQ page update...

"Tegger" <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m> wrote

I have a (possible) confession to make. It's lengthy, but please read
it.

I have heretofore been advocating the use of copious quantities of anti-
seize in certain locations during brake servicing in order to prevent
corrosion and seizure of various parts.

Since the government banned asbestos as a friction material (~1995), I
have had, off and on, problems with glaze on my rotors. Glaze is a
smeary, patchy, durable black substance, which no solvent can dissolve.
You can't even sand it off. The only way of getting rid of it is to
machine the rotors.

Actually if you drive your vehicle at highway speeds while appyling the
brakes lightly, the glaze will be worn off the pads/shoes and drums or
rotors. Don't do it for an extended amount of time, just apply the brakes
(lightly) for short periods of time or else you will overheat the
components. This does work and is easier and less expensive then turning the
rotors and replacing the pads.

Brian Smith wrote:

"Tegger" <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns99325D90BC51tegger (AT) 207 (DOT) 14.116.130...
I have a (possible) confession to make. It's lengthy, but please read
it.

I have heretofore been advocating the use of copious quantities of anti-
seize in certain locations during brake servicing in order to prevent
corrosion and seizure of various parts.

Since the government banned asbestos as a friction material (~1995), I
have had, off and on, problems with glaze on my rotors. Glaze is a
smeary, patchy, durable black substance, which no solvent can dissolve.
You can't even sand it off. The only way of getting rid of it is to
machine the rotors.

Actually if you drive your vehicle at highway speeds while appyling the
brakes lightly, the glaze will be worn off the pads/shoes and drums or
rotors. Don't do it for an extended amount of time, just apply the brakes
(lightly) for short periods of time or else you will overheat the
components. This does work and is easier and less expensive then turning the
rotors and replacing the pads.

------------------------------

I gotta wonder about people who drive a lot in mountainous areas. I'll
bet the guys at the brake shops see all kinds of 'symptoms' ! !

'Curly'

"motsco_" <motsco_ (AT) interbaun (DOT) com> wrote

I gotta wonder about people who drive a lot in mountainous areas. I'll bet
the guys at the brake shops see all kinds of 'symptoms' ! !

I run a fleet of refuse and recycling trucks that are in the urban area,
except for once or twice a day for a run of 10 kilometres round trip. They
do nothing but stop and go forty to fifty feet all day long. The brake
rotors/ drums and pads/shoes become glazed within a week or two, it's far
more affordable and no down time occurs when using the method I described
earlier.

Skate <skat3e123NOSPAM (AT) yahoo (DOT) net> wrote in
news:to8n43hv8ejuf2j8mdg4mgms31j9fgujek (AT) 4ax (DOT) com:

On Wed, 16 May 2007 06:22:40 -0700, jim beam
spamvortex (AT) bad (DOT) example.net> wrote:

it.

if you want "real deal" brake lube, go for molykote m77. and if you
find an economic source of it, let me know!

When using Honda OEM pads they come with a small packet of molykote
m77.

Not all of them. Mine do not.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"Brian Smith" <Halifax (AT) NovaScotia (DOT) Canada> wrote in
news:YsK2i.17924$g63.15202@edtnps82:

"Tegger" <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns99325D90BC51tegger (AT) 207 (DOT) 14.116.130...
I have a (possible) confession to make. It's lengthy, but please read
it.

I have heretofore been advocating the use of copious quantities of
anti- seize in certain locations during brake servicing in order to
prevent corrosion and seizure of various parts.

Since the government banned asbestos as a friction material (~1995),
I have had, off and on, problems with glaze on my rotors. Glaze is a
smeary, patchy, durable black substance, which no solvent can
dissolve. You can't even sand it off. The only way of getting rid of
it is to machine the rotors.

Actually if you drive your vehicle at highway speeds while
appyling the
brakes lightly, the glaze will be worn off the pads/shoes and drums or
rotors.

Tried that. Doesn't work if the pads are bad.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"Tegger" <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m> wrote

Tried that. Doesn't work if the pads are bad.

Interesting.

"Brian Smith" <Halifax (AT) NovaScotia (DOT) Canada> wrote in news:5E33i.22454
$V75.3804@edtnps89:

"Tegger" <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns993342C45E1BCtegger (AT) 207 (DOT) 14.116.130...

Tried that. Doesn't work if the pads are bad.

Interesting.

I tried and failed to take descriptive photos of my rear discs, whose
friction surfaces resemble the dark gray coating worn by a rifle barrel.

The fronts had patchy glaze, where the outline of the pads was imprinted
over and over again in an irregular pattern around the disc, some lighter,
some heavier.

I had some serious front brake vibration. A check with a dial gauge showed
the discs to be dead true, and yet I had a high-speed vibration. The only
conclusion I can come to at this point (surely to be opposed by some
others...) is that the glaze caused sufficient frictional differences as to
cause steering wheel wobble ("vibration").


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Nick <> wrote in newssup43prklfjqh3i8o6g66a3ds10a95g04 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com:

What components do you put the anti-seize on? I only put this on the
two caliper bolts.

I hope you don't mean the ones that have the rubber boots.

For the shims of the brake pads I only use the
Molykote which is supplied with the OEM pads.

And as I keep pointing out, not all models' pads come with shims or
Molykote.

I have yet to have this
happen on my rotors and they have 116k miles on them.

Good for you.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Fri, 18 May 2007 11:06:33 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m>
wrote:

Nick <> wrote in newssup43prklfjqh3i8o6g66a3ds10a95g04 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com:

What components do you put the anti-seize on? I only put this on the
two caliper bolts.



I hope you don't mean the ones that have the rubber boots.
Yep those are the ones. I find it very difficult to get the bolts off

without applying it.

For the shims of the brake pads I only use the
Molykote which is supplied with the OEM pads.


And as I keep pointing out, not all models' pads come with shims or
Molykote.


I have yet to have this
happen on my rotors and they have 116k miles on them.


Good for you.

Tegger wrote:

"Brian Smith" <Halifax (AT) NovaScotia (DOT) Canada> wrote in news:5E33i.22454
$V75.3804@edtnps89:


"Tegger" <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns993342C45E1BCtegger (AT) 207 (DOT) 14.116.130...

Tried that. Doesn't work if the pads are bad.

Interesting.





I tried and failed to take descriptive photos of my rear discs, whose
friction surfaces resemble the dark gray coating worn by a rifle barrel.

The fronts had patchy glaze, where the outline of the pads was imprinted
over and over again in an irregular pattern around the disc, some lighter,
some heavier.

I had some serious front brake vibration. A check with a dial gauge showed
the discs to be dead true, and yet I had a high-speed vibration. The only
conclusion I can come to at this point (surely to be opposed by some
others...) is that the glaze caused sufficient frictional differences as to
cause steering wheel wobble ("vibration").

I remember years ago when a friend had an obvious rotor pulse.
Machining the rotors made no difference. Changing pads and replacing
rotors still made no difference.

The whole problem disapeared when he bought a new set of tires...

<shrug>

JT

(Who thinks gearheading leads to unbalanced thinking...sometimes.)