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#21
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| 1-800-999-1009 http://automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations.aspx |
#22
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| 1-800-999-1009 http://automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations.aspx Thanks. I took your & Elmo's advice & opened a complaint. The diagnosis is obvious to everyone except the service managers; there's only one possible cause that is 100% consistent with the symptoms. I think the biggest problem is my choice of dealers; at least I have a choice, though. I sympathize with folks in rural / distant areas where there's only one dealer. |
#23
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| 1-800-999-1009 http://automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations.aspx Thanks. I took your & Elmo's advice & opened a complaint. The diagnosis is obvious to everyone except the service managers; there's only one possible cause that is 100% consistent with the symptoms. I think the biggest problem is my choice of dealers; at least I have a choice, though. I sympathize with folks in rural / distant areas where there's only one dealer. |
#24
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Robert Barr <n... (AT) for (DOT) harvest> wrote innews:Ld8cl.13361$yr3.9161 (AT) nlpi068 (DOT) nbdc.sbc.com: He's in Canada. He needs to deal with Honda Canada, which is a separate company from American Honda. I've already told him this, plus reminded him that his car's under warranty. Uhh, actually that was the original poster who's from Canada. *I'm from the Chicago area. *Thanks though. Sorry. Mistaken identity. This morning, at -18 F when I left, I had no heat. *I got two, then three segments on the gauge. *While waiting at a light I lost one and it dropped to two. *At -23 when I arrived at work about 20 minutes later, the gauge had dropped back to a single element, which is what it shows before the car is even started. Man, and I thought we had it bad with the thermometer hovering around zero F. Even with all that, the engine ought to eventually reach normal temperature in 15-20 minutes or so if the engine speed is kept substantially above idle (as when you're driving), longer if you just let it idle. But it WILL eventually warm up completely no matter what. Provided the thermostat is working properly, that is. I had to keep a window partly down because my breath was fogging the window and I had no defrost. I called them today and they said they'd need to 'inspect the problem', which they've done twice now. *They said to bring it in. *I asked what they planned to do differently. *No reply, but the guy mentioned that 'it might be weather related'. Now, I'm sure I've heard a more obtuse comment in recent years, but from my viewpoint here, that pretty much takes the cake. *He wound up hanging up on me. I don't see why this is so hard. If proper combustion is occurring, it is frankly impossible for the engine NOT to reach operating temperature if the thermostat is working properly. Combustion chamber temperatures hover around 2,000F. That heat has to go /somewhere/. If the thermostat does not keep the heat corralled inside the block until full op temp has been reached, it will go out the rad. If anyone has the # for American Honda, please post it. 1-800-999-1009 http://automobiles.honda.com/information/customer-relations.aspx -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#25
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-35C here this morning. My daily commute is about 35kms, mostly highway. I started the car and allowed it to run for about 5 minutes. The block heater was plugged in, so no excuses for being too cold. After the brief warmup, its about 100ft to the highway, then highway speeds. The temp gauge never moved the whole way to the city (20kms). I finally got it to go to about 1/4 by running in a lower gear at higher RPM, but it normally runs around 1/2. And when I came to red lights in the city, the temp gauge would go down to 0 within a minute. Called the dealer today, and just like every other problem I have (touchy brakes, rattles), 'its normal operation' and he recommended I don't run the heater fan at full blast. Problem is, at 1/2, the heater barely warms up the interior of the car. However, with the heater fan running slower, I was able to get the car to the normal spot on the gauge after about 25 minutes. We got this 2008 civic LX in January 2007. Never noticed any problems last winter, but it really was never this cold either. The car has 32000kms on it, 2 oil changes. I have checked the coolant level in the radiator and the resevoir, and both are perfectly fine. Entertained damming the radiator with cardboard, however, the outside surface of the rad is not accessible without removing one of the plastic shrouds on the bumper. At these temps, its not enjoyable to be outside working on this, and besides, the plastic clips would just break due to the temperature (already broke 1). I have seen some Civic hybrid forums talk about using pipe insulation from Home Depot to block the openings in the grill. I may try that yet, but I just have this feeling that something is wrong. I have owned many Hondas, and have never had a problem with the vehicle reaching operating temperature. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Anything I am missing here? Thanks Terry in Winnipeg |
#26
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I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ? |
#27
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"Markov" <mar... (AT) someone (DOT) com> wrote in message news:0pwgl.38571$1W7.7637 (AT) newsfe11 (DOT) iad... I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ? What is the rating on your thermostat? That is - at what water temp will it open? Common ratings are 185/195/205 degrees F (don't know what that would be in Celsius). If you have the 185, the coolant will not provide enough heat to warm the car at those temps. I have a 205 degree F in my 86 Civic and it works well at temps ranging from 90F in the summer to -70F in the winter....Just a thought DaveD |
#28
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"Markov" <mar... (AT) someone (DOT) com> wrote in message news:0pwgl.38571$1W7.7637 (AT) newsfe11 (DOT) iad... I just change my thermostat and I didn't see much improvement when the weather is close to -30C. Anything to look for ? What is the rating on your thermostat? That is - at what water temp will it open? Common ratings are 185/195/205 degrees F (don't know what that would be in Celsius). If you have the 185, the coolant will not provide enough heat to warm the car at those temps. I have a 205 degree F in my 86 Civic and it works well at temps ranging from 90F in the summer to -70F in the winter....Just a thought DaveD |
#29
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-35C here this morning. My daily commute is about 35kms, mostly highway. *I started the car and allowed it to run for about 5 minutes. *The block heater was plugged in, so no excuses for being too cold. *After the brief warmup, its about 100ft to the highway, then highway speeds. The temp gauge never moved the whole way to the city (20kms). *I finally got it to go to about 1/4 by running in a lower gear at higher RPM, but it normally runs around 1/2. *And when I came to red lights in the city, the temp gauge would go down to 0 within a minute. Called the dealer today, and just like every other problem I have (touchy brakes, rattles), 'its normal operation' and he recommended I don't run the heater fan at full blast. *Problem is, at 1/2, the heater barely warms up the interior of the car. *However, with the heater fan running slower, I was able to get the car to the normal spot on the gauge after about 25 minutes. We got this 2008civicLX in January2007. *Never noticed anyproblems last winter, but it really was never this cold either. *The car has 32000kms on it, 2 oil changes. I have checked the coolant level in the radiator and the resevoir, and both are perfectly fine. *Entertained damming the radiator with cardboard, however, the outside surface of the rad is not accessible without removing one of the plastic shrouds on the bumper. *At these temps, its not enjoyable to be outside working on this, and besides, the plastic clips would just break due to the temperature (already broke 1). I have seen someCivichybrid forums talk about using pipe insulation from Home Depot to block the openings in the grill. *I may try that yet, but I just have this feeling that something is wrong. *I have owned many Hondas, and have never had a problem with the vehicle reaching operating temperature. Has anyone else experienced this problem? *Anything I am missing here? Thanks Terry in Winnipeg |
#30
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On Jan 14, 7:56*pm, loewent <loew... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: -35C here this morning. My daily commute is about 35kms, mostly highway. *I started the car and allowed it to run for about 5 minutes. *The block heater was plugged in, so no excuses for being too cold. *After the brief warmup, its about 100ft to the highway, then highway speeds. The temp gauge never moved the whole way to the city (20kms). *I finally got it to go to about 1/4 by running in a lower gear at higher RPM, but it normally runs around 1/2. *And when I came to red lights in the city, the temp gauge would go down to 0 within a minute. Called the dealer today, and just like every other problem I have (touchy brakes, rattles), 'its normal operation' and he recommended I don't run the heater fan at full blast. *Problem is, at 1/2, the heater barely warms up the interior of the car. *However, with the heater fan running slower, I was able to get the car to the normal spot on the gauge after about 25 minutes. We got this 2008civicLX in January2007. *Never noticed anyproblems last winter, but it really was never this cold either. *The car has 32000kms on it, 2 oil changes. I have checked the coolant level in the radiator and the resevoir, and both are perfectly fine. *Entertained damming the radiator with cardboard, however, the outside surface of the rad is not accessible without removing one of the plastic shrouds on the bumper. *At these temps, its not enjoyable to be outside working on this, and besides, the plastic clips would just break due to the temperature (already broke 1). I have seen someCivichybrid forums talk about using pipe insulation from Home Depot to block the openings in the grill. *I may try that yet, but I just have this feeling that something is wrong. *I have owned many Hondas, and have never had a problem with the vehicle reaching operating temperature. Has anyone else experienced this problem? *Anything I am missing here? Thanks Terry in Winnipeg Yes, I'm having the exact same problem. *I've taken my car in four times this fall and still haveproblemsreaching temperature. *I'm 95% sure the problem is thethermostat. *Every time I ask them to check thethermostat, and they haven't removed thethermostatonce (which is the recommended method in the dealer service manual). My old Acura Integra (also an aluminum 1.8L) had the same problem once, I replaced thethermostatand she was fine. My problem is with the dealer here in Whitehorse- they keep telling me not to run the heater at full, or that 'these little engines don't produce as much heat'. *It doesn't make sense. *If the engine is at temperature, thethermostatshould open and close to keep it at temperature. *I'm paying them to replace thethermostatat my cost, and save the parts for me. *(If I get an openthermostatback I'll be getting unglued). *Thethermostatshould be in this week, I'll let you know how it goes. I'm sure you've noticed your gas consumption increase as well- I'm getting about 250km to a tank right now, just slightly better than my friends Land Rover. *You may have also noticed the temperature drop on long downhill roads... I can usually drop the temp from 1/2 to 1/6 on a good hill. FYI: I've installed some cardboard in front of the bumper, at least now it reaches temperature when I'm on the highway... I'll keep you posted. Corry |
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