![]() | |
![]() |
| | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
| |||
| |||
|
|
"Bill Gavin" <egavin (AT) scsinternet (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bfkvc5l6it6rmmof6m08gc9q8ko6cvher5 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com... This ones driving me crazy.Checked #11 fuse it is ok. Should I pull the stereo out when the tail lights work and the stereo works when the ignition key is in the aux position.Do stereo installs usually take there power from the tail light circuit.Any more ideas would be welcome.6 HRS wasted alredy Yes, pull the stereo right now and see what it looks like back there. If it is just an aftermarket stereo and no additional stereo items (amps, equalizer, etc...) then I wouldn't be too concerned about tracing back to the fuse back or any of that as for a simple head unit swap everything can be done with what's in the stereo cavity. When you pull the stereo, did the person who put it in there use an adapter harness or did they just cut the stock wiring to wire in the new radio? If the cut method, then you have a rats nest to untangle. If they used a harness, then your issue may be as simple as some electrical tape and/or a wire nut came loose. Pull the stereo, take inventory of what you see and start from there. |
#12
| |||
| |||
|
|
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 10:16:30 -0400, "Seth" seth_lermanNOSPAM (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: "Bill Gavin" <egavin (AT) scsinternet (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bfkvc5l6it6rmmof6m08gc9q8ko6cvher5 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com... This ones driving me crazy.Checked #11 fuse it is ok. Should I pull the stereo out when the tail lights work and the stereo works when the ignition key is in the aux position.Do stereo installs usually take there power from the tail light circuit.Any more ideas would be welcome.6 HRS wasted alredy Yes, pull the stereo right now and see what it looks like back there. If it is just an aftermarket stereo and no additional stereo items (amps, equalizer, etc...) then I wouldn't be too concerned about tracing back to the fuse back or any of that as for a simple head unit swap everything can be done with what's in the stereo cavity. When you pull the stereo, did the person who put it in there use an adapter harness or did they just cut the stock wiring to wire in the new radio? If the cut method, then you have a rats nest to untangle. If they used a harness, then your issue may be as simple as some electrical tape and/or a wire nut came loose. Pull the stereo, take inventory of what you see and start from there. 6HRS wasted including internet time. Took the stereo out today Alpine.Looks like a adapter harness was installed to the factory plug.Next with the stereo unplugged I tryed the lights still no luck.Doesnt look like factory plug has been spliced or touched.Is it possible problem could be in the ignition switch or the light switch. Bill Gavin |
#13
| |||
| |||
|
|
Bill Gavin <egavin (AT) scsinternet (DOT) com> wrote in news:nqf1d5drt50tilm4e90spvuee0ct9ff0rg (AT) 4ax (DOT) com: On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 10:16:30 -0400, "Seth" seth_lermanNOSPAM (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: "Bill Gavin" <egavin (AT) scsinternet (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bfkvc5l6it6rmmof6m08gc9q8ko6cvher5 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com... This ones driving me crazy.Checked #11 fuse it is ok. Should I pull the stereo out when the tail lights work and the stereo works when the ignition key is in the aux position.Do stereo installs usually take there power from the tail light circuit.Any more ideas would be welcome.6 HRS wasted alredy Yes, pull the stereo right now and see what it looks like back there. If it is just an aftermarket stereo and no additional stereo items (amps, equalizer, etc...) then I wouldn't be too concerned about tracing back to the fuse back or any of that as for a simple head unit swap everything can be done with what's in the stereo cavity. When you pull the stereo, did the person who put it in there use an adapter harness or did they just cut the stock wiring to wire in the new radio? If the cut method, then you have a rats nest to untangle. If they used a harness, then your issue may be as simple as some electrical tape and/or a wire nut came loose. Pull the stereo, take inventory of what you see and start from there. 6HRS wasted including internet time. Took the stereo out today Alpine.Looks like a adapter harness was installed to the factory plug.Next with the stereo unplugged I tryed the lights still no luck.Doesnt look like factory plug has been spliced or touched.Is it possible problem could be in the ignition switch or the light switch. I gave you wire colors and a connector location. Plus I gave you another clue: Check to see if the side markers and license plate lights work. |
#14
| |||
| |||
|
|
"Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote in message news:Xns9CA08A5B74963tegger (AT) 208 (DOT) 90.168.18... |
|
Plus I gave you another clue: Check to see if the side markers and license plate lights work. At this point I would bet money it's a bad ground. With the engine off, the lights are getting their ground through some circuit that is off with the engine off (question about if this is truly tied to the engine running or just the run vs. accessory vs. off position of the key switch hasn't been answered yet). But I'll bet it's similar to the situation that happens sometimes where a persons brake lights only work when the headlights are off or the tail lights work only when the brake pedal isn't pressed. Bad ground. |
#15
| |||
| |||
|
| I considered a bad ground as well, but dismissed that as being unlikely. The grounds are on the interior of the body shell and are rarely defective. The one exception is the taillight ground in the hatchback. That one is sometimes damaged in bad rear-end collisions. Power to the taillights is switched. Ground is permanent. This is the opposite of the horn circuit, where the horns are always live and ground is supplied by the horn contacts in the steering wheel. In any case, if the OP would check his front marker lights and rear license plate lights and see if they behave the same as the taillights, that would give us a clue. The markers and taillights use different grounds, but the taillights and license plate lights use a common ground. |
#16
| |||
| |||
|
|
"Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in news:haqhnu$72n$1 (AT) news (DOT) eternal-september.org: "Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote in message news:Xns9CA08A5B74963tegger (AT) 208 (DOT) 90.168.18... snip Plus I gave you another clue: Check to see if the side markers and license plate lights work. At this point I would bet money it's a bad ground. With the engine off, the lights are getting their ground through some circuit that is off with the engine off (question about if this is truly tied to the engine running or just the run vs. accessory vs. off position of the key switch hasn't been answered yet). But I'll bet it's similar to the situation that happens sometimes where a persons brake lights only work when the headlights are off or the tail lights work only when the brake pedal isn't pressed. Bad ground. I considered a bad ground as well, but dismissed that as being unlikely. The grounds are on the interior of the body shell and are rarely defective. The one exception is the taillight ground in the hatchback. That one is sometimes damaged in bad rear-end collisions. Power to the taillights is switched. Ground is permanent. This is the opposite of the horn circuit, where the horns are always live and ground is supplied by the horn contacts in the steering wheel. In any case, if the OP would check his front marker lights and rear license plate lights and see if they behave the same as the taillights, that would give us a clue. The markers and taillights use different grounds, but the taillights and license plate lights use a common ground. Actually, the same power source feeds: radio taillights front markers license plate lights glove box light heater control panel lights clock cigarette lighter and many other things. These use many different ground points. |
#17
| |||
| |||
|
|
"Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote in message news:Xns9CA0ABC6AF1B9tegger (AT) 208 (DOT) 90.168.18... "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in news:haqhnu$72n$1 (AT) news (DOT) eternal-september.org: "Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote in message news:Xns9CA08A5B74963tegger (AT) 208 (DOT) 90.168.18... snip Plus I gave you another clue: Check to see if the side markers and license plate lights work. At this point I would bet money it's a bad ground. With the engine off, the lights are getting their ground through some circuit that is off with the engine off (question about if this is truly tied to the engine running or just the run vs. accessory vs. off position of the key switch hasn't been answered yet). But I'll bet it's similar to the situation that happens sometimes where a persons brake lights only work when the headlights are off or the tail lights work only when the brake pedal isn't pressed. Bad ground. I considered a bad ground as well, but dismissed that as being unlikely. The grounds are on the interior of the body shell and are rarely defective. The one exception is the taillight ground in the hatchback. That one is sometimes damaged in bad rear-end collisions. Power to the taillights is switched. Ground is permanent. This is the opposite of the horn circuit, where the horns are always live and ground is supplied by the horn contacts in the steering wheel. In any case, if the OP would check his front marker lights and rear license plate lights and see if they behave the same as the taillights, that would give us a clue. The markers and taillights use different grounds, but the taillights and license plate lights use a common ground. Actually, the same power source feeds: radio taillights front markers license plate lights glove box light heater control panel lights clock cigarette lighter and many other things. These use many different ground points. I see your point. But as a former after market installer I have seen this way too much. Often times (mis) blamed on the stereo. On many of these cars a few items use a shared ground and if the grounding bolt has worked itself loose or rusted (this is an almost 20 year old vehicle) it becomes a "floating" ground that is no longer ground when the 2nd circuit is also energized. Could be either... My money is on the ground. |
#18
| |||
| |||
|
|
1. all lights work with ignition in off position,when key is in aux or engine running I have no side marker lights,liscence plate light or tail lights.clock and heater lights work. |
|
2.Lots of rain the last few weeks some condensation in back tail light lenses. |
|
3.car is a hatchback with no damage. 4. Car is worth the effort 20 years old seen winter twice no rust 197000km. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |