The Haynes manual for our 92 Accord lists a value for igniter resistance,
but doesn't say between which terminals it is measured.

It also says to remove two set screws to remove the igniter. With the rotor
removed, I only see one screw-not a set screw, BTW, and it looks to be at a
bad angle to reach with a screwdriver. Are there actually two screws, and
must something else be removed to access the hidden screw?

Thanks,

John

"John Pinkham" <jwpinkham (AT) comcast (DOT) net> wrote
Dunno about the resistance.

Maybe try the ignitor tests given at
http://www.crx.org/southcal/tech/igniter/igniter-testing.htm

There should be two screws. The sites below and my memory indicate they are not
set screws.

I suspect you're just at a bad angle to see the second screw. The screws are
probably easier to remove with a socket wrench (7 mm?).

The following describes removing the igniter on a c.1990 Honda Civic. The photos
might help. See especially the sixth photograph from the top for the two screws.

http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/igniter.htm

Try also:

http://www.crx.org/southcal/tech/igniter/page3.htm

The screws should have been installed with Lock-Tite (or similar). So like the
above link says, a screwdriver may not be enough.

I replaced my 91 Civic's igniter last year. (Your 92 Accord's ignitor is
identical to my 91 Civic's ignitor.) I took the distributor off to do it. It's
really not much trouble, and you might want to do the same. If you do remove the
distributor, pay careful attention to marking the housing so you don't mess up
the timing. I think I took maybe four hours altogether. That's going really
slow, as I'd never done this before.

"Caroline" <caroline10027remove (AT) earthlink (DOT) net> wrote


take off the cap. pull the wire from the ignitor to the negative side
of the coil. connect a test light from the wire to the pos side of the
battery. crank the engine, if it flashes the ignitor is doing it's
job, the coil is bad.
Chip