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#1
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#2
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I have a 99 Civic with 230k miles and I've never changed the brake fluid. But I just read an article about moisture content decreasing the boiling point of the fluid over time. Now I'm concerned about the master cylinder because I've never changed the fluid. Any thoughts? Pete |
#3
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I have a 99 Civic with 230k miles and I've never changed the brake fluid. But I just read an article about moisture content decreasing the boiling point of the fluid over time. Now I'm concerned about the master cylinder because I've never changed the fluid. Any thoughts? Pete It's a good idea. |
#4
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I have a 99 Civic with 230k miles and I've never changed the brake fluid. But I just read an article about moisture content decreasing the boiling point of the fluid over time. Now I'm concerned about the master cylinder because I've never changed the fluid. Any thoughts? Pete |
#5
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Tegger wrote: "Pete" <archer1157 (AT) verizon (DOT) net> wrote in news:fDDql.445$gm6.383 (AT) nwrddc02 (DOT) gnilink.net: I have a 99 Civic with 230k miles and I've never changed the brake fluid. But I just read an article about moisture content decreasing the boiling point of the fluid over time. Now I'm concerned about the master cylinder because I've never changed the fluid. Any thoughts? Pete Brake fluid change is ALWAYS a good idea, even on cars that have been badly neglected, like this one. Get the dealer or another garage to do it. They have equipment that does not endanger the master cylinder during bleeding. there's not much danger to seals from the process - it's almost always chemical. fresh fluid causes slight sizing change, and on worn seals, that can cause leakage. for this mileage, if you're not doing the work yourself, it's probably cost effective to simply replace. |
#6
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#7
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* * * * Any damage to the master cylinder from lack of maintenance is already done. * That said, changing the fluid now will most likely result in the master cylinder failing, either at the conclusion of the change, or shortly thereafter. |
#8
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how? *if the new fluid shrinks the seals, then not pumping them isn't going to save them. besides, the master cylinder /should/ work, new fluid, all the way, regardless. *imagine you cut a brake line, debris or whatever, and now you only have one circuit working. *suddenly, you're going to want to use the "unused" portion of the master cylinder real damned quick, and having that suddenly fail because you've never checked that it worked all the way last time you bled the brakes could suddenly be just a teensy weensy little bit inconvenient. bleeding kits are for speed, convenience and one-man operation, not seal preservation. |
#9
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Sounds like both Jim Beam and Tegger are right -- under different circumstances. |
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Well eqiupped shops use pressure/vacuum bleeders. So the brake pedal isn't pumped during the process. However, the brake pedal should be depressed a little (past the vent port) so the area behind the seal can be flushed. |
#10
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Tegger wrote: jim beam <retard-trap (AT) bad (DOT) example.net> wrote in news:sfWdnf3RIcT9eTbUnZ2dnUVZ_gmWnZ2d (AT) speakeasy (DOT) net: there's not much danger to seals from the process - it's almost always chemical. fresh fluid causes slight sizing change, and on worn seals, that can cause leakage. for this mileage, if you're not doing the work yourself, it's probably cost effective to simply replace. Honda says differently. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/A011000.pdf written locally, not in japan. |
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bottom line - the cylinder needs to be effective through the full stroke, any time, any reason. period. if it's not, it needs to be replaced. |
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besides, as you yourself show with the internal condition of your own master cylinder rebuild on your web site, the corrosion inhibitors in modern fluids pretty much prove this to be ancient history. |
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