Originally posted here...I can't find it to paste in. Bottom line:
batt drains seemingly at random til car is dead, dead, dead. Can
happen driving or overnight. New batt. Alt OK. Fuses OK. Test
light showed no parasitic draw with multiple tests over time.

So: I did it differently this time. I hooked the V/O meter up to
check for batt drain and sure enough you could watch it falling off
from 12.5v down to the high 10's low 11's...until I pulled the fuse
for the interior lighting circuit when it stabilized. Further
discovered that if the driver's door is closed (circuit supposedly
open) I get the voltage leak-off. If door is open everythink is OK.
Passenger door switch does not cause same behaviour. Chased wires and
saw that drivers door switch wire(just one) only runs to the passenger
door switch. That is to say that this wire appears to only have 2
points, A and B, and goes nowhere else in the car. This circuit only
seems to connect the two door switches. If true, how the hell does
this circuit operate? I thought I was so close. Help guys! Thanks.

Kevin

Meatman wrote:

Honda ran the door switch / interior light through some models of the
stereo because the alarm was piggy-backed onto the stereo. Sounds like
your stereo may be a good place to start. To drain your battery from
12.5 to high 10's should have taken days, or you'd be producing HEAT
somewhere. You sure the battery is a good one? Check and clean the
ground for the battery's black wire. What's your year and mileage again?

'Curly'

To motsco and Beam:

1988 CRX DX 240k. No alarm :-) Also there is no "internal part of
this switch. In one position wire connected to sliding tab touches
switch body that is grounded to frame. In the other position(open
circuit) the tab does not touch the switch body and therefore not the
frame either. No internal mechanism involved. I think I know which
circuit to trace already as you'll read below but something doesn't
jive---> Stumper is that the wire, the ONLY wire, from the door
switch(es) only seem to connect one another...a swear to god they
do...and to nothing else in the car. I've even got the carpet out.
Battery is new since I parked car due to this problem. It ran down,
of course, I charged it up over night and part of next day and the
charger never shut off showing the battery to be fully charged. THEN
after I removed the interior light fuse I put it back on charge on a
4A medium charge and it charged properly and the the charger
registered a full charge and shut off unlike when the fuse was in.
Interior lights illuminate properly and when they are supposed to
(door open/closed). All fuses have been pulled singly in testing and
this is the only one that is suspect. And like I said, even wierder,
is that the pass door switch does NOT seem to cause the same problem,
Clearly I've missed something or this is waaay simpler than it
appears. Thanks fellas.

Kevin