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#11
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Grumpy AuContraire wrote: use_a_hammer (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: Grumpy AuContraire wrote: use_a_hammer (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: BigELilE05 (AT) msn (DOT) com wrote: Accord88carb5spd wrote: '88 Honda Accord LX 5 spd. 215K mi. My brakes started failing today after driving through town and traffic for about 30-45 min. I had to pull the E-brake a couple of times so I could stop. It was very hot today, so I'm wondering if that could have been the cause. After I got back on the highway the brakes seemed to work normally. My brake light never came on, the pedal was going all the way to the floor. I had to pump it several times to get pressureback up.Somtimes this didn't work and I had to use the E- brake. I have checked the fluid ,the level is good. I replaced the front discs about 3 or 4 months ago, I've never had any problems with the brakes before this. Please help! Bad Master Cylinder Since everyone has given you the same answer, have you ever replaced a master cylinder before? A helpful tip if not. You can just bleed the MC itself after it's installed. Just have someone pump the brake pedal a few times and hold.....while you bleed the air from the 2 lines going directly into the MC. Do them one at a time and be sure to rinse off the excess brake fluid under the hood with a water hose. Brake fluid will eat paint among other things. Most master cylinders come with a bleeder kit consisting of lines that pass fluid directly fed by the M/C back into its resevoir which is a substitute for "bench bleeding." I do it this way most of the time when replacing a M/C. JT That's fine for the M/C itself, but there is still a chance that air got into the system when the 2 brake lines were removed. Much easier to get it out at the M/C than to bleed all 4 calipers. Removed or disconnected? JT Removed/disconnected from the M/C. Seriously, do you really think I meant remove the brake lines from the car to install a M/C? |
#12
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use_a_hammer (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: Grumpy AuContraire wrote: use_a_hammer (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: Grumpy AuContraire wrote: use_a_hammer (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote: BigELilE05 (AT) msn (DOT) com wrote: Accord88carb5spd wrote: '88 Honda Accord LX 5 spd. 215K mi. My brakes started failing today after driving through town and traffic for about 30-45 min. I had to pull the E-brake a couple of times so I could stop. It was very hot today, so I'm wondering if that could have been the cause. After I got back on the highway the brakes seemed to work normally. My brake light never came on, the pedal was going all the way to the floor. I had to pump it several times to get pressureback up.Somtimes this didn't work and I had to use the E- brake. I have checked the fluid ,the level is good. I replaced the front discs about 3 or 4 months ago, I've never had any problems with the brakes before this. Please help! Bad Master Cylinder Since everyone has given you the same answer, have you ever replaced a master cylinder before? A helpful tip if not. You can just bleed the MC itself after it's installed. Just have someone pump the brake pedal a few times and hold.....while you bleed the air from the 2 lines going directly into the MC. Do them one at a time and be sure to rinse off the excess brake fluid under the hood with a water hose. Brake fluid will eat paint among other things. Most master cylinders come with a bleeder kit consisting of lines that pass fluid directly fed by the M/C back into its resevoir which is a substitute for "bench bleeding." I do it this way most of the time when replacing a M/C. JT That's fine for the M/C itself, but there is still a chance that air got into the system when the 2 brake lines were removed. Much easier to get it out at the M/C than to bleed all 4 calipers. Removed or disconnected? JT Removed/disconnected from the M/C. Seriously, do you really think I meant remove the brake lines from the car to install a M/C? I've seen stranger things happen... JT |
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