Hi,

I've just gone out to my 97 Honda Accord and there is no pressure on my
clutch pedal.

If I push it down, it goes all the way to the floor, and if I then lift it a
little the spring causes
it to come back up. Initially there was a little bit of pressure bringing
it back up, but now
there's none (engine off or on).

When the engine is on, I can't engage any gears, presumably because
depressing the
clutch pedal is not having the normal effect. With the engine off, I can
select any of the
gears, and if I start the car in a gear it 'jumps' which implies the clutch
*is* engaged
and the gear selection is working. I am a bit wary of doing this too much
as I don't want
to put unnecessary strain on any other components in the clutch/gearbox.

My guess is clutch master or cylinder - does that sound right? Is there
anything simpler
that could cause these symptoms? I had a full service about a month ago, so
all the
fluids should have been topped up then, and I haven't noticed any fluid
leaks on the
driveway. I'd go and check the fluids right now but it's dark and there's a
gale blowing!

As it stands I'm going to have to get it towed to the garage as I can't
drive it at the moment.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer,
Al

PS If anyone in the UK is reading, what sort of figure should I be looking
out for a new
clutch cylinder fitted at an independent mechanic?

Al Reynolds wrote:
It may be either cylinder or the hose. Most common in my experience is the
slave (at the gearbox) Last one I fitted was about a hundred quid IIRC Put
some more fluid in, pump the pedal a few times and see where it falls out,
either inside the car or on the floor.

On 8 Nov, 20:37, "Mrcheerful" <nbk... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:

There's an 89 - 98 Accord slave cylinder on ebay at £38.95 inc p&P
( 260304267970)

Ian

Thus spake jim beam <spamvortex (AT) bad (DOT) example.net> :

<snip>

If there's fluid on the floor, it's the master. If the fluid is all
over the bell housing, it's the slave. But, as the man said, I'd bet
on the master first (doesn't have to leak into the car, though, but if
it does, that's a sure sign).

Refill and go may work for 50 miles, or only 5. Depends on how bad it
is.

As a matter of fact, you CAN drive the car in this condition. I and probably
a million others have done it. You have to put the car into gear with the
engine stopped and then start it. After that you will be able to change from
gear to gear if you get the revs right. All this is not easy in traffic, but
not impossible. Saves the cost of a tow.

Rob Graham

Thanks for all the comments.

I just had the AA mechanic check it and both the master and slave cylinders
have gone - apparently the master is worse.

He has refilled and bled the system which should be just enough to get me to
my garage to get them fixed.

Both cylinders are reasonably easily accessible so hopefully the labour
won't be too much!

Al

"Al Reynolds" <ajr-news (AT) bat400 (DOT) com> wrote

Sounds eminently more sensible than what I've led to believe regarding the
clutch slave cylinder on my Ford focus, which is apparently located 'inside'
the gearbox bell housing, can anyone confirm if this is true?

"Ivan" <ivan'H'older (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote
I've heard this too about Focuses. Lots of people change the slave if they
have any gearbox work done as it saves on cost later (apparently).

For the record, it was just the slave cylinder (AA man overcautious) and
it cost me £125 all in. Honda wanted £215.

Al

Al Reynolds wrote:
Strange, that is just what I said it would be one week ago.

Thus spake "Al Reynolds" <ajr-news (AT) bat400 (DOT) com> :

90 quid buys a lot of beer. When and where?