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#1
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I have a 94 Accord EX with an intermittent fuel pump not running condition when trying to start the car. I can crank it forever it won't catch. When the condition occurs the check engine light remains on and the fuel pump doesn't run. |
#2
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On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 17:10:57 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m wrote: : hgoldste (AT) mpcs (DOT) com (Howard Goldstein) wrote in news:1197906337.39292 : @news.queue.to: : : > I have a 94 Accord EX with an intermittent fuel pump not running : > condition when trying to start the car. I can crank it forever it : > won't catch. : : > When the condition occurs the check engine light remains on and : > the fuel pump doesn't run. : : : : The Check Engine light stays ON all the time when the key is turned : to "II"? That's one /possible/ sign of a bad ECU... Not all the time, it goes out when the relay finally clicks the second time and the fuel pump starts right up at that point. When the problem is expressing itself it'll stay on for as long as I sit there and wait for it, sometimes 3-4 minutes after turning the key to on, and extinguishes two seconds after the pump comes on (I think II is the on position, 'll tkae a look at the key when I check the grounds) |
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: : Check the ECU ground at the thermostat housing. Check engine to : body ground strap. How are they? Not sure. The engine to body ground is the same thick strap that carries the battery negative to the engine or is this a different strap |
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(I'm stupid)? I had the timing belt and the radiator hoses changed a few months ago, are either of those attachments the sort that'd have beend disconnected for those services? |
#3
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On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 23:45:33 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m wrote: : : > Not sure. The engine to body ground is the same thick strap that : > carries the battery negative to the engine or is this a different : > strap : : : : Different. The engine-to-body ground goes from the valve cover to : the rad support. It's usally a wire about 3/16" diameter, a lot : smaller than the battery negative cable. On much older cars it's : often frayed, broken or missing entirely. That's part of the reason : some people have such trouble with older cars: Missing/bad grounds. |
#4
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Thanks. That has got to be the one on the driver's side from the corner of thevalve cover, goes a few inches over to that tower and then over to the frame. |
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I cleaned those up with no-residue cleaner and did a few tightening/untightening cycles, move the tab around, etc to try to dislodge any gunk. Also did the same to the grounds attached to the intake manifold (driver side, there's an attachment point with two heavyish cables each paired with two thin yellow cables (?)(but it does go to bare metal)(the manual says those are the ECM grounds? What a weird place to bring them?) |
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Before I did that though I ohmed out the leads back to the negative battery cable with the cable detached from the battery and they looked ok. *However* the problem was not existent when I started doing this. Another question please: You mentioned another ground over by the temperature housing? Is this on the firewall-side of the engine, passenger side? I couldn't find a ground wire there but I don't think I"m looking in the right place, or I'm not able to see it easily |
#5
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On Tue, 18 Dec 2007 00:05:18 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <tegger (AT) tegger (DOT) c0m wrote: : You've also got a couple of grounds to the transmission housing. Should I expect any with a standard transmission? |
#6
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I have a 94 Accord EX with an intermittent fuel pump not running |
#7
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: : I'm pushing my luck with you probably. There are three bolts into the thermostat, |
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one of them I can't see but can feel, but man I don't feel or see anything attached or hanging around nearby. |
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You wouldn't happen to recall where it came from, would you? If not don't sweat it, |
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you've given me more to poke around on and I need to put a lot more time into looking around for a loose wire under there before I bug you again, I need to get a mirror and pull it out into the daylight tomorrow. FWIW, thus far I've cleaned and resecured G101 (above) G1, and G2 and G351. I'm not sure how to get at G201 and G301 which the diagrams show stuck up in the front corners around the marker lights. Velly intelesting... |
#8
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Pardon two very silly questions. If I've gotten everything reasonable the only connections I've yet to clean are the connectors for the ECM and the ground that the manual shows inside the cabin, passenger side, above the ECM. Can you think of any reason I shouldn't at least hit the ECM sockets and the connector with good no-residue contact cleaner in case I can dislodge potential oxidation? |
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If there aren't good reasons not to do this then HTH do folks I get the kickpanels off? |
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After lifting the weatherstipping and carpet I've got access to it but tugging at the panel doesn't do any good. |
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Can I pry it off with a flathead screwdriver to pop the kickpanel's plastic anchors out of the body (is there a better way?) |
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: : Sometimes there are mistakes in the manuals, so what we're seeing : in them isn't necessarily correct, and I don't have an actual : Accord handy to look at. At least part of the problem here is relying on my descriptions. I'm only slightly better with cars than I am with household plumbing, and that's not saying much. |
#9
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