my '06 tj with 5000 miles on it .....and the brakes are pulsating
.......is this a common problem .....don't want to turn the rotators this
early.....maybe its under a recall or warranty thanks

lurk wrote:
Did you hit a large bump and bend the rotors?

Probally overheats them and runs through water.


"Scott in Baltimore" <sDcOoNtTtS_PuAnMiMtE_69 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

lurk wrote:
This is extremely common and is normally caused by putting the tires on
with an impact gun. They are supposed to be finished up with a torque
wrench.

You can buy torque wrenches for under $30.00 that are good for finishing
wheel lug nuts or making sure the tire change pricks aren't trying to
sucker you.

It would seem one of the latest scams by some $tealerships is to get you
in for a 'free' tire rotation, hammer the wheels on with an impact gun
and sucker you for a brake job.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

lurk wrote:
pulsating as in ABS kicking on, or pulsating as in drag/release/drag/release?

If it's ABS then have them check the front sensors, one is either out of
range or close to it.

If it's drag/release (warped rotor) then it may be a MFG defect. Long as
your under waranty I'd have them diagnose it.

If the finding is warped rotor, and you have to go out of pocket to fix it,
your better off buying new rotors and installing them yourself. It's not
a hard job. Basically, if you can change a tire you can replace a rotor.
It's just two more bolts.

--
DougW

5000 miles is obviously too early to be having to deal with problems
like this. But your dealer will tell you that rotors are 'wear items',
not covered under warranty. but it is worth a try to see if they will
cover it.

I would not turn a warped rotor. Every time I have tried it, I get only
few miles before it reoccurrs and it's off to get a new one. Say what
you will, the aftermarket cast rotors can be had for not much more than
turning.

lurk wrote:

I agree that it is extremely common, but not that it is "caused" by the
impact gun. I have barely six thousand miles on a set of new rotors, and
they are already pulsating a bit, along with Autozone "lifetime" pads. I
put the wheels on with a torque wrench, of course. Maybe I drove the
vehicle in the rain, or made a panic stop or two, but what the hell are you
supposed to do?

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

Earle Horton wrote:
proper brake-in (pun intended) is key to long brake life.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

The procedure is basically a series of increasingly quicker
stops from increasing speed, followed by a drive to allow the
disc to cool.

What you want to avoid with new brakes is to run hard, stop
hard, then sit there at the light with your foot on the brake.
That traps a lot of heat under the pad and will start the
warping process.

--
DougW

Any competent mechanic should have a set ot torque sticks.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ameext50.html
I wouldn't use them on an aluminum Porsche hub, but for iron they are great.
If you want to be finicky, use the next lower range and then torque by hand.
--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

The tire shop I go to has a set of torque spec standards on a doorway to
the parts room. First order of business in the morning is to take the
manual clicker torque wrench and check it's accuracy. Then all wheels
are finished up using a torque wrench.

Stupendous Man wrote: