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Brand new '89 YJ
Jeep and Willys Vehicles Discussions on Jeep and Willys vehicles. (rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys)
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#11
 
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Re: Brand new '89 YJ -
02-04-2007
, 07:04 PM
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I cleaned the solenoid, it was pretty crudded up so I was hoping that was it, but no dice. Where on the coil do I hook the jumper wire? Mike Romain wrote: That might mean the connection on the side post of the starter solenoid is loose or dirty. That side wire send power to the coil when the starter is turning. You can jumper the coil directly to the battery to see if it then starts. If it does, it won't stop until you unhook that jumper wire. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#12
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Hey guys, I haven't had a chance to do much reading on the 4.2L yet, so I thought I'd ask you guys for a quick answer. We threw a battery in it, and voila, the starter does work, there's just no spark. The plugs are ugly, but would probably spark if there was any power to them. In the myriad trash that came out of this thing was a new distributor cap and rotor, so we put them on. I'm thinking it's the coil, but here's the situation: we put a timing light on the wire that runs from the coil to the cap and it doesn't have spark when the key is turned, but only when the key is released from 'start' - then it has a quick spark, but that's it. So - replace the coil? Or am I possibly looking at some ignition wiring problem? There are also a couple vacuum hoses disconnected and I'm clueless on carburetors, but that's another show. Carl S wrote: So jealous..... Carl "The Merg" <greg.mergner (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1170474813.551448.46360 (AT) s48g2000cws (DOT) googlegroups.com... Picked it up today - don't worry, I was able to get the Tcase in neutral this time. Here are the pictures: http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r139/ gmergner/89%20YJ/ Needs a starter, battery, and something's up with the clutch - and I'm sure a whole lot of other things will present themselves before we're done. |
#13
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Ballast resistor. Carl "The Merg" <greg.mergner (AT) REMOVEgmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:eq5fjl$tvq$1 (AT) aioe (DOT) org... Hey guys, I haven't had a chance to do much reading on the 4.2L yet, so I thought I'd ask you guys for a quick answer. We threw a battery in it, and voila, the starter does work, there's just no spark. The plugs are ugly, but would probably spark if there was any power to them. In the myriad trash that came out of this thing was a new distributor cap and rotor, so we put them on. I'm thinking it's the coil, but here's the situation: we put a timing light on the wire that runs from the coil to the cap and it doesn't have spark when the key is turned, but only when the key is released from 'start' - then it has a quick spark, but that's it. So - replace the coil? Or am I possibly looking at some ignition wiring problem? There are also a couple vacuum hoses disconnected and I'm clueless on carburetors, but that's another show. |
#14
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please elaborate. Carl S wrote: Ballast resistor. Carl "The Merg" <greg.mergner (AT) REMOVEgmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:eq5fjl$tvq$1 (AT) aioe (DOT) org... Hey guys, I haven't had a chance to do much reading on the 4.2L yet, so I thought I'd ask you guys for a quick answer. We threw a battery in it, and voila, the starter does work, there's just no spark. The plugs are ugly, but would probably spark if there was any power to them. In the myriad trash that came out of this thing was a new distributor cap and rotor, so we put them on. I'm thinking it's the coil, but here's the situation: we put a timing light on the wire that runs from the coil to the cap and it doesn't have spark when the key is turned, but only when the key is released from 'start' - then it has a quick spark, but that's it. So - replace the coil? Or am I possibly looking at some ignition wiring problem? There are also a couple vacuum hoses disconnected and I'm clueless on carburetors, but that's another show. |
#15
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Replace the ballast resistor. ;-) Carl "The Merg" <greg.mergner (AT) REMOVEgmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:eq64vo$c4e$2 (AT) aioe (DOT) org... please elaborate. Carl S wrote: Ballast resistor. Carl "The Merg" <greg.mergner (AT) REMOVEgmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:eq5fjl$tvq$1 (AT) aioe (DOT) org... Hey guys, I haven't had a chance to do much reading on the 4.2L yet, so I thought I'd ask you guys for a quick answer. We threw a battery in it, and voila, the starter does work, there's just no spark. The plugs are ugly, but would probably spark if there was any power to them. In the myriad trash that came out of this thing was a new distributor cap and rotor, so we put them on. I'm thinking it's the coil, but here's the situation: we put a timing light on the wire that runs from the coil to the cap and it doesn't have spark when the key is turned, but only when the key is released from 'start' - then it has a quick spark, but that's it. So - replace the coil? Or am I possibly looking at some ignition wiring problem? There are also a couple vacuum hoses disconnected and I'm clueless on carburetors, but that's another show. |
#16
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No. If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the key goes to run. He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue. He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at a non starter. Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that out fast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#17
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I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this indicates a bad coil then? Mike Romain wrote: No. If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the key goes to run. He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue. He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at a non starter. Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that out fast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#18
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You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this. Mike The Merg wrote: I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this indicates a bad coil then? Mike Romain wrote: No. If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the key goes to run. He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue. He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at a non starter. Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that out fast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#19
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I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least he did last I checked. So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though nothing happened when power was run directly to it? Mike Romain wrote: You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this. Mike The Merg wrote: I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this indicates a bad coil then? Mike Romain wrote: No. If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the key goes to run. He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue. He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at a non starter. Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that out fast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#20
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Yes, I think so mostly because I am on this side of the computer. I believe your coil is OK because of the flash on the timing light. Using a test light or meter makes life a 'lot' easier. When the key is in 'run', a test light should light up when hooked to the coil positive. The test light should stay lit when someone turns the key more to 'start' and the starter cranks. If this happens, then put the test light on the negative side of the coil and watch when someone cranks it. It should pulse or flicker. If no pulsing, suspect the ignition module or coil pickup. There are meter tests for the coil pickup. You need a multimeter for this. It is easy. Then you also should open the air filter, hold the choke open and hand move the throttle linkage to watch the two squirts of gas that has to be happening. If no gas, get back to us or toss a quarter cup of gas in the carb and try it again to see what happens. If you get a roar, suspect a blocked gas filter. Mike The Merg wrote: I have a test light - I'm assuming I need to check the wires going 'to' the coil? I'm pretty sure my dad has meters around too, at least he did last I checked. So I still need to check if the coil is getting power even though nothing happened when power was run directly to it? Mike Romain wrote: You need to find out if the coil is getting power or if the ignition module has issues. You need a meter or test light to do this. Mike The Merg wrote: I tried jumping directly to the coil, got nothing. I think I did it right - it was hard to shove the cable in there, but anyway, this indicates a bad coil then? Mike Romain wrote: No. If the ballast 'wire' was bad, the engine would fire up and run as long as the starter is turning. The engine would then die as the key goes to run. He has the opposite happening. He gets one spark flash as the key goes to run which indicates a bad ballast bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil or an ignition module issue. He needs a multimeter or he will end up going nuts tossing parts at a non starter. Running a power line directly to the coil positive will sort that out fast. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
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