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Brand new '89 YJ
Jeep and Willys Vehicles Discussions on Jeep and Willys vehicles. (rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys)
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#41
 
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Re: Brand new '89 YJ -
02-12-2007
, 01:25 AM
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Mike, We're still getting nothing. Let's see if I can remember - we've replaced the fuel filter, coil and solenoid, I tried the jumper ground from the battery, I've cleaned nearly every electrical connection I can find. I got starting fluid, but it still seems to be that there is no spark. It would probably be a good idea to get plugs and wires, but it seems that there is no spark even getting to the plugs. How can we check to make sure the distributor is working properly? Any suggestions?? Mike Romain wrote: The Merg wrote: I'll check for the gas, but if that were the problem wouldn't it have started at least for a second when we put gas in the carb? Maybe, but you did mention dirty connections on the solenoid which can interfere with starting or maybe you needed a splash more gas... If you had fuel flow, the spark plugs would be wet with gas when you pulled them out. You don't mention that,... Just a FYI, if the plugs are soaked with black goo from flooding, they need to be cleaned and dried to get it to start. A bad flood from a missed start or bad spark can really mess them up that way. Then when you fix the spark, it still won't go until the plugs get cleaned. I did spray the carb down with tb cleaner, but didn't really give it a really thorough cleaning, which I'll do soon. (by the way, is there a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner?) TB cleaner is just that, for throttle bodies. It is 'much' milder than carb cleaner and won't do near as good a job. A carb kit for that Weber-Carter BBD is in the twenty buck range and is easy to put in. There are a couple tricks to make it easier than the directions imply. With the cable to body test, I'm essentially checking to see if my ground is screwed up? That is correct. If the ground isn't strong, the ignition module won't turn on. It happens a lot on the old YJ's and CJ's. |
and lay it on the block so you can see the spark. Instead of using a
normal plug wire, plug into the coil wire. If it doesn't spark on
cranking, you got no spark, period. You say you have power to the hot
side of the coil. OK, put your meter on the other side of the coil - the
one that goes to the ignition module, not the high tension output <g>.
Now have someone crank it over. If the voltage on the control (what used
to be the points) side is zero - or any constant voltage - while it
cranks, it has to be the ignition module or the power to that module. Mike
explains how to find a shorted coil. This is the test we used to pull to
find shorted condensors back in the good old days. If the hot side of the
coil shows good voltage, the other power terminal shows a pulsing voltage
you almost certainly have a bad coil.
--
Will Honea <whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com>
#42
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#43
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Success! We traced the problem down to the pickup coil, thanks to Mike's help. We figured this out after pulling the ignition module and having it tested. We had a problem with fuel flow, but that was fixed after blowing the lines out - there was apparently some crud in the line from the pump to the filter. We also replaced the non-solid fuel hoses. Then, a liberal amount of starting fluid and gas in the carb got everything going fine. Tomorrow we replace the clutch, then she'll be back on the road. Thanks for all the help, Lee, and everyone, and especially Mike. |
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