 | |
CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions
Jeep and Willys Vehicles Discussions on Jeep and Willys vehicles. (rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys)
 |
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#11
 
| |||
| |||
|
Re: Re: CJ-5 Heater Fan Upgrade Questions -
03-18-2007
, 12:50 PM
|
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the blower cage also. |
Thats cool, I just thought I would mention it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#12
| |||
| |||
|
|
I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the other group right? The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire. I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness. Mike Anthony T wrote: Mike, not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on with the dash off. "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45fd5a50$0$5699$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Just an FYI. If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at least 'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new round hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts... I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Anthony T wrote: James, I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just recently moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a pain in the ass to complete. I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the correct GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new. You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing out. I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort your body a little. Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out. Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater housing and you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing. Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.). Replace your old blower motor and heater core. Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater housing and buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time. Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor. Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger and it will look like a professional install; http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20 Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I made a perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater assembly to fit back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole into a jagged octagon using a dremmel tool (it looks like shit) but the assembly more easily fit back in. As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the heater assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me) and give it a good push and it will fit in nicely Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90 Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have two or three friends help you line up the holes. "James" <jnipperxxx (AT) nospamfdn (DOT) com> wrote in message news:6vSdnXaL4ZM8At7YnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d (AT) comcast (DOT) com... There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the heater fan blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980 CJ-5. I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to assist my mechanic for getting ready to do this for me. 1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com says to ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum" one. It is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I wonder how you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list one (not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy Blazer (not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if anyone bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me the NAPA part number ? Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my 1980 CJ-5 Jeep? 2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new motor is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new gasket made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket work if care is taken ?? Any comments? 3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall side, and not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from the firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job, wouldn't it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the ballpark cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the core is not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is. 4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove the battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray. 5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw, scroll saw, or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw will cut a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only be done from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???) ------------------------------------------------- Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in advance. I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this upgrade, as I have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan output. Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter. Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!! --james-- |
#13
| |||
| |||
|
|
SnoMan wrote: On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud (AT) remail-it (DOT) net wrote: not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on with the dash off. If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the blower cage also. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#14
| |||
| |||
|
|
What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the three position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the motor. I just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than resist) "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... SnoMan wrote: On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud (AT) remail-it (DOT) net wrote: not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on with the dash off. If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the blower cage also. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#15
| |||
| |||
|
|
What's up with the resistor strip? Why do we need it? I thought the three position blower switch gave the three different voltgaes to the motor. I just dont understand what the resistor strip does (other than resist) "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45fd6d79$0$6415$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... SnoMan wrote: On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud (AT) remail-it (DOT) net wrote: not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on with the dash off. If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the blower cage also. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
#16
| |||
| |||
|
|
The blower switch just routes current through different portions of the resister for different fan speeds. It's the resister that actually does the work of varying voltage to the motor. |
True and the voltage and current dropped across them is converted to
heat and airflow in duct keeps them for toasting most of the time.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#17
| |||
| |||
|
|
After about 10 miles down the hi-way...BOOM...it backfired and the entire Jeep shook. So I pulled it over and it died. I did re-start the engine and after about 30 seconds...BOOM. |
Are we talking thru carb or exhuast on this backfire problem because
this narrows down possible causes.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#18
| |||
| |||
|
|
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 10:59:06 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud (AT) remail-it (DOT) net wrote: After about 10 miles down the hi-way...BOOM...it backfired and the entire Jeep shook. So I pulled it over and it died. I did re-start the engine and after about 30 seconds...BOOM. Are we talking thru carb or exhuast on this backfire problem because this narrows down possible causes. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
#19
| |||
| |||
|
|
I'll be honest, I wasn't paying too much attention as my Son was in the back seat and I just wanted to get off the hi-way after I heard the Bang (I didn't want to be stuck in the middle of a four lane with a child in the back seat) I thing it was thru the carb, but not absolutely sure. |
When it is through the carb it is usually (not always) from a leaning
out conditon. When mixture gets too lean it does not fire properly and
the mixuture is dumped into exhaust manifold where it starts to ignite
and then the flame travel back into cylinder and into intake during
valve overlap. You may have a weak pump or plugged filter that is
causing it to lean out under high demand periods. I sticking or burnt
valve can cause this to but if it is a burnt valve it would be
consistant. I have also seen a worn cam lobe cause this but it too was
also consistant and predictable.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
#20
| |||
| |||
|
|
On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:51:16 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud (AT) remail-it (DOT) net wrote: I'll be honest, I wasn't paying too much attention as my Son was in the back seat and I just wanted to get off the hi-way after I heard the Bang (I didn't want to be stuck in the middle of a four lane with a child in the back seat) I thing it was thru the carb, but not absolutely sure. When it is through the carb it is usually (not always) from a leaning out conditon. When mixture gets too lean it does not fire properly and the mixuture is dumped into exhaust manifold where it starts to ignite and then the flame travel back into cylinder and into intake during valve overlap. You may have a weak pump or plugged filter that is causing it to lean out under high demand periods. I sticking or burnt valve can cause this to but if it is a burnt valve it would be consistant. I have also seen a worn cam lobe cause this but it too was also consistant and predictable. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
|
« Previous Thread
|
Next Thread »
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
Linear Mode
| |
Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.