There were a number of posts and website reviews on upgrading the heater fan
blower motor for the older vintage cj-5 Jeeps. My Jeep is a 1980 CJ-5.

I have read all the posts that I can find on this, and I would like to
summarize some questions that still remain for me as I prepare to assist my
mechanic for getting ready to do this for me.


1. Motor model. I note that the web article on Off-Road.com says to
ask for a motor for a 1973 Chevy Blazer / 350, with a/c. Other
notes say to ask for the "normal" fan motor, not the "premimum" one. It
is said that the shaft on the "premium" motor is too long. I wonder how
you can be confident that you have the right motor if they only list one
(not a "normal" and a "premium" one) ?? Also, I see that Mike Romain
indicates that the "right" motor to ask for is for a 1972 Chevy Blazer
(not a 1973 as indicated on the website article. ). I wonder if anyone
bought a "correct" size motor from NAPA, and could just give me the NAPA
part number ?

Any other comments on making sure I get the right size motor for my 1980
CJ-5 Jeep?


2. Gasket? Will I need to fashion some kind of gasket when the new motor
is put on ? One poster said he had a terrible time getting a new gasket
made. Can I buy a gasket of some sort, or will the old gasket work if
care is taken ?? Any comments?


3. Heater core. I plan to have this job done from the firewall side, and
not take the dash out. Can the heater core be easily removed from the
firewall side ? Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
needs replacement, or boiling out ? If this is such a hard job, wouldn't
it just be quicker/easier to buy a new heater core ? What is the ballpark
cost of the heater core? Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the core is
not now leaking, but I don't know how good the flow is.


4. On my 1980 CJ-5, would it be easier in the long run to remove the
battery tray ? I have the standard battery and tray.


5. Proper saw for enlarging hole. Which is best, a jigsaw, scroll saw,
or a reciprocal saw with a thin blade ?? I know that a hole-saw will cut
a cleaner, more precise hole, but isn't it true that this can only be done
from the dash side ? (if so, I don't really visualize why???)

-------------------------------------------------

Again, I am not a mechanic, but I work closely with my mechanic and he
doesn't mind if I help him plan, and get the right tools and parts in
advance.

I know this is an old subject, but I really do want to do this upgrade, as I
have always felt that this Jeep was very weak in the heater fan output.
Doubling the output would help a LOT in the dead of winter.

Thanks for helping me on these questions !!!!


--james--

I will fill in some...

James wrote:
As far as I know the 72 and 73 motors are the same. If in doubt, figure
I made a typo...

The NAPA part number 'might' be 455-1039 or 655-1039, but the person who
posted these never came back to confirm the numbers. I got mine at
Canadian Tire and got the right one first try.

The gasket is cut out of a chunk of 1/2" or maybe 5/8" foam. I have
been careful on the 3 I have done and managed to reuse the old gaskets
just fine.

I am not sure this is possible to do with the dash in place, even on the
larger CJ7. Maybe if you take the seats out.....

For 'sure' nothing can be removed from the firewall side except the nuts
holding the heater box in place and the hoses. The one nut dead center
of the valve cover is an SOB!

Will it be obvious to my mechanic if the heater core
Not unless it is totally rotted. The cores aren't visible through the
tubes I don't think.

If this is such a hard job, wouldn't
Yup. Costs less than a hundred.

Remember, this is a 1980 Jeep, but the core is
I use a garden hose and flush mine. It offers no restriction.

I have done the cutting from the inside so haven't needed to remove the
tray.

Whatever one you can use the best! I have used the first and last.
Although how to get a scroll saw in there?

I have a dremil tool with fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels that work
well on that hole.


I know that a hole-saw will cut
Unless you have a right angle drill, it won't fit in there.

Good Luck.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Thank you very much Mike !!

I will look for any other comments.


--james--

On Sat, 28 Oct 2006, James wrote:



Take your old motor with you. The critical match is the shaft length, and
the differnce will be obvious. The problem seems to be that someplace
along the line -- probably from GM itself -- there was confusion about
which motor was associated with which part number. Some suppliers will
pull up the right part, some the other one (AutoZone, for one, will pull
the wrong one using the web site's info). Considering the millions of
parts available, one screwup isn't so bad.


Take your old one with you.


I managed to stretch my old gasket to fit, but it was tight. Go slowly,
carefully.


You can't get the blower motor out with the heater box in place. You
can't get the heater box out with the dash in place, but you don't have to
pull the dash all the way off, either.

The heater core is kept in place by a metal panel held down by about a
dozen coarse-thread screws on the forward face of the heater box. There
is no way to remove it through the firewall.

Removing/replacing the heater box is such a pain in the arse. I recommend
simply replacing the core now, while you have the damned thing apart
rather than waiting until it leaks -- and it will.

Quadratec retails a new core for about 50 bucks.

Salvage your control cables, if you can. The replacement ones look better
made than they are. I've broken two in as many years. Beware that the
short cable that links (I think) the vent door with the cowl door is not
in production.


You'll probably be happiest if you pull the tray and the right fender, but
that's just me. Be aware that bolts will break when you try to get them
off.


I don't see why the hole saw would only work from the dash side, but it
does require building a jig. I did mine the hard way: Scribed a circle
and used a die grinder for the rough and a file for the fine. Be
prepared for a lot of trial fitting and revision. When you do the trial
fit, leave out the heater core to reduce danage to the pipes.



It is well worth the effort.




--
"I defer to your plainly more vivid memories of topless women with
whips....r"
R. H. Draney recalls AFU in the Good Old Days.

James,
I'm not sure if your still looking for advice on this mod. I just recently
moded my blower motor. It's a fairly cheap upgrade but a pain in the ass to
complete.

I bought the upgraded motor from Schucks, part # 35587 (that's the correct
GM upgrade) I paid $30 for the motor, new.

You do not need to remove the dash or seats to get the heater housing out.
I did it at 45 years old. However, you need be able to contort your body a
little.

Getting it out is the easy part. 4 nuts and it's out.

Once out, unscrew the numerous screws on the back of the heater housing and
you get to all of the innards of the heater hosing.

Absolutely replace the heater core (Schucks part # 399210 for $40.).

Replace your old blower motor and heater core.

Now the hard part. Lining up the flapper ducts and the heater housing and
buttoning it up. That took a little finesse and time.

Now the really hard part...expand the hole to fit the new blower motor.

Read this and you will have complete success making the hole larger and it
will look like a professional install;
http://www.jeeptech.com/body/heatsup.html

I had to buy a 3 1/4" hole saw at Home depot for $20

Do not make the same mistake I made: I measured perfectly, and I made a
perfect hole. However, I couldn't get the friggin heater assembly to fit
back in. So, I absolutely hacked my beautiful hole into a jagged octagon
using a dremmel tool (it looks like shit) but the assembly more easily fit
back in.

As I look back on this I realized, I just needed to finesse the heater
assembly to line up with the holes. Have patience (unlike me) and give it a
good push and it will fit in nicely

Total Cost for the project, including the hole saw: $90
Total time...about 6 hours as I couldn't get it to fit back in. Have two or
three friends help you line up the holes.



"James" <jnipperxxx (AT) nospamfdn (DOT) com> wrote

Just an FYI.

If you have the dash off, the cussing time will be cut in half at least
'And' the heater motor will fit straight through the nice new round
hole... let alone how easy it is to hook up all ducts...

I think it is worth the 'extra' time to pull the dash.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Anthony T wrote:

Mike,
not having the dash off wasn't the problem (I agree it would be easier if it
was off). My problem was the hard plastic duct that runs from the air
intake on the hood down to the heater assumbly. It was this duct that caused
my problems. You are correct though, it's easier to see what's going on
with the dash off.

"Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:57:25 -0700, "Anthony T" <bud (AT) remail-it (DOT) net>
wrote:


If this is a bigger motor too you need to consider changing the
resitor strip that gives you speeds because the stock one may fail in
time under the heavier current draw from a bigger motor.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

I just clicked on something.... You have the backfire issue in the
other group right?

The orange wire from the choke sometimes hits the exhaust manifold near
the back which will cause that. The Ford coil connectors are pretty
crappy and either could have been moved or dinged when you were in there
trying to bolt the heater back on. Even a plug wire.

I also have posted a meter walk through for you to test your connections
so you don't have to tear everything open on your alternator harness.

Mike

Anthony T wrote:

SnoMan wrote:
The are both stock GM items. AMC used a GM heater setup with the same
resistor pack which is why the larger motor fits right in and to the
blower cage also.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)