I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
like that but forgot how it was done.
thanks Frank

That's a new one on me. Looking underneath from below, you can see all
the way up to the hood on any car I know of.
Drink
<afapowell28 (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

Why? Is water a problem?

I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
and they work fine.






<afapowell28 (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just
try to keep it from corroding after a swim.
--
Stupendous Man
Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr (AT) verizon (DOT) net> wrote:


The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military
trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

afapowell28 (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca wrote:
The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.

Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.

The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...

The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca>
wrote:


Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
practices.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

"SnoMan" <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote


Hosing the mud out of the alternator is a much better practice than leaving
it in.

"SnoMan" <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote


The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
alternator is still going strong.

Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
person that is asking the questions.





Old military

SnoMan wrote:
Listen you mental midget, you have already proven yourself an insanely
stupid liar and was told all you would get back from me was abuse if you
continue to stalk my posts.

We drive our Jeeps off road 'AND' on the highway around here unlike you
who's J10 snowplow has only ever seen a parking lot and is so decrepit
it can't spin it's tires in reverse apparently.

This means we have to clean our Jeeps, unwind 4 low often when terrain
changes suddenly AND we know how to 'shift on the fly' into 4 high on
the highway, unlike you who oils his under body and 'always' stops in a
snowstorm on the highway to shift gears.

We hose off our engine bays and under body to get the mud out. We spray
the mud out of our alternators and off our batteries, we hose down the
'inside' of our Jeeps, we get together and take apart our starters every
couple years to clean the mud out of them, we have to remove our hubs
and clean the mud out and repack them sometimes 3 time a season AND we
know it's safe to drop it into 4 high at 55 mph when a snow squall hits
on the way home from the pits, let alone to give it a little goose in
reverse to unwind a drivetrain!

So once again I will say Screw off!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)