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#1
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#2
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Hey folks, Now I jumped under there and noticed the tailpipe is hitting / rubbing the rear leaf, and the section that goes over the axle is about a half inch from the floor of the Jeep. The clearance is very, very tight between the leaf and the gas tank skid plate. (1/2" on either side) My question is: Is it kosher to fabricate a rubber "donut" of sorts to act as a buffer between the pipe and the leaf and the pipe and the floor. How hot does that pipe get? |
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Do they sell "lowering" rubber hangers? The very end of the tailpipe has a metal hanger supporting a metal support rod off the pipe... leading to the never ending metal on metal squeak that I remedied by slipping a rubber tube over the rod...but why the hell would they have metal on metal with a moving part?!?! |
#3
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Hey folks, Things are going sweet in my new (to me) Jeep. The guy I bought it off just had a new cat back Dynamax installed. Over every bump comes the rattle/clunk from the rear. On some startups, there is a clunk sounding like the exhaist hitting the floor dead center of the Jeep. Now I jumped under there and noticed the tailpipe is hitting / rubbing the rear leaf, and the section that goes over the axle is about a half inch from the floor of the Jeep. The clearance is very, very tight between the leaf and the gas tank skid plate. (1/2" on either side) My question is: Is it kosher to fabricate a rubber "donut" of sorts to act as a buffer between the pipe and the leaf and the pipe and the floor. How hot does that pipe get? Do they sell "lowering" rubber hangers? The very end of the tailpipe has a metal hanger supporting a metal support rod off the pipe... leading to the never ending metal on metal squeak that I remedied by slipping a rubber tube over the rod...but why the hell would they have metal on metal with a moving part?!?! Thanks, ~Jon my stats: 91 YJ 4.0 auto shackles giving about 1.5" lift |
#4
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#5
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Hey folks, Things are going sweet in my new (to me) Jeep. The guy I bought it off just had a new cat back Dynamax installed. Over every bump comes the rattle/clunk from the rear. On some startups, there is a clunk sounding like the exhaist hitting the floor dead center of the Jeep. Now I jumped under there and noticed the tailpipe is hitting / rubbing the rear leaf, and the section that goes over the axle is about a half inch from the floor of the Jeep. The clearance is very, very tight between the leaf and the gas tank skid plate. (1/2" on either side) My question is: Is it kosher to fabricate a rubber "donut" of sorts to act as a buffer between the pipe and the leaf and the pipe and the floor. How hot does that pipe get? Do they sell "lowering" rubber hangers? The very end of the tailpipe has a metal hanger supporting a metal support rod off the pipe... leading to the never ending metal on metal squeak that I remedied by slipping a rubber tube over the rod...but why the hell would they have metal on metal with a moving part?!?! Thanks, ~Jon my stats: 91 YJ 4.0 auto shackles giving about 1.5" lift |
#6
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#7
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Hello Mike, Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in there. To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined individual.... yet. The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check engine light). Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my bullshit meter starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red. I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop. Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this nonsense. ~Jon |
#8
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The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side. If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in under the vehicle if there are any leaks. Mike Jon wrote: Hello Mike, Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in there. To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined individual.... yet. The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check engine light). Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my bullshit meter starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red. I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop. Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this nonsense. ~Jon |
#9
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I don't remember if the OP's Jeep was a CJ or YJ, but both the OEM exhaust and the Gibson I have in my '93 exit between the gas tank skid and passenger side shackle, the OEM angled downward, the Gibson straight out. It's a tight fit - when I first put the Gibson in, I broke the rearmost hanger waaaayy up on the frame. I couldn't fix it right away, so I drove around with the most god awful clanking for a while. What you're describing sounds like the banging I had - check the hanger all the way in the back, it attaches basically out the end of the tailpipe. Mike Romain wrote: The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side. If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in under the vehicle if there are any leaks. Mike Jon wrote: Hello Mike, Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in there. To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined individual.... yet. The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check engine light). Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my bullshit meter starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red. I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop. Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this nonsense. ~Jon |
#10
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That downward deflection is important. If that is all the YJ has, it's easy to get an add on end piece shaped right. Mike The Merg wrote: I don't remember if the OP's Jeep was a CJ or YJ, but both the OEM exhaust and the Gibson I have in my '93 exit between the gas tank skid and passenger side shackle, the OEM angled downward, the Gibson straight out. It's a tight fit - when I first put the Gibson in, I broke the rearmost hanger waaaayy up on the frame. I couldn't fix it right away, so I drove around with the most god awful clanking for a while. What you're describing sounds like the banging I had - check the hanger all the way in the back, it attaches basically out the end of the tailpipe. Mike Romain wrote: The tailpipe should be coming out on a 45 between the tire and the shackle on top of the spring. You can hang it off the frame there with a universal hanger. I just bent the metal band of the hanger into a U shape and hung it over the frame tight. There was a tab bolted to the frame there at one point that was the hanger mount. I believe YJ's are the same that way as the CJ's, just on the other side. If it is straight out the back, the exhaust will vortex there and get in through zippers or the slightest soft top crack and smell bad besides being a CO risk. Out the side will vortex under the tire and come in under the vehicle if there are any leaks. Mike Jon wrote: Hello Mike, Well whoever installed it has the tail pipe shooting straight out the back right between the gas tank skid plate and the rear passenger side leaf spring - leading to metal on metal squeak, and the pipe banging around over what seems to be just any imperfection in the road. It does not extend beyond the bumper, but tucked neatly and tightly in there. To be perfectly honest, I'm not too interested in dropping it off somewhere and ponying up an hourly rate for something I could just do myself. Then again, I'm not really a mechanically inclined individual.... yet. The last thing was a stiff steering issue, and had a referred mechanic fiddle with / troubleshoot the steering shaft & gearbox, only to discover it was a bad PS pump like I originally said to him. He went ahead and replaced it seeing that "he already had it off", soaked the engine compartment with PS fluid in the process, then washed it down with Kerosene, and now the TPS is giving me problems (code #24 / check engine light). Of course he claims it has nothing to do with what he did, or that the fact that the steering wheel isn't quite perfectly straight is "no biggie". The fact that the steering now doesn't return to center and the engine almost conks out during idle when the peddle is tapped or on highway acceleration (TPS thing) is met with the classic "it was like that when it came in" ... like I'm some sort of idiot. I really don't feel like playing slap & tickle with the guy since there's no way to prove anything at this point. Plus, when my bullshit meter starts pegging, I have no restraint or common sense - I just see red. I'm just already tired of dealing with "mechanic$". I truly believe they will "set things in motion" whenever they get the chance, and play Mr. Nice Guy so you return to their shop. Sorry for the diatribe, I'm just somewhat frustrated by all this nonsense. ~Jon- Ocultar texto de la cita - - Mostrar texto de la cita - |
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