Jo Baggs wrote:
Drain back valve failures leading to dry starts, Bypass spring issues
leading to non filtration. Small filter area, glued cardboard
components.....

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html#fram-ph8a

For my Rubicon I use Ford FL-1A if at Walmart or the equivalent WIX if
at the parts store. Also for these Jeep I6 it is critical to use an oil
with at least the ACEA A1 rating, and preferably the A3. Most modern
oils do not have the wear package needed to preserve the flat tappet
cams of Jeep I6s. They removed the zinc because it was shortening the
life of the cats. I have settled on Mobile 1 HIGH MILEAGE, even though
the Rubi only has 40k.
jeff

"Socks" <socks09 (AT) shaw (DOT) ca> wrote

Well, for the record, one of my valves is a little noisy (SBC/Manual 4 spd
tranny). It's very noticeable when the engine idles down (Like coming to a
stop sign).
But I have no idea if the Fram filter is the cause.

I would think that with all the bad publicity, Fram would have corrected
their defects by now. After all, they sell thousands (if not millions) of
their filters. Does anyone know if Fram is still considered a bad filter?

Socks wrote:
I have...

After a hard 4600 mile run I did an oil change and used a fram filter.
The next morning the engine rattled so bad I thought I had cooked it on
the run and was prepping for a rebuild when I remembered about the fram
filter and a post came up in the tech NG about them failing on the
drainback valve.

Changed out the filter and no more noise.

Your Mini doesn't have the same oil filter layout, the drainback valve
is in the engine isn't it?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com