Ok the short of it... how does one go about removing the front hubs? I
have a noisy bearing on the drivers side (eliminated the ujoint), I was
interested to know of any tricks, do's and don;ts .

Thanks

Snow...

what kind of vehicle and year? Helps to have a chiltons manual too...

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

I suppose I should know what you drive, but I don't. Sorry.



"Snow" <snowbal (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

Usually the hub is rusted on, some use the three bolts that hold it
on, loosened, and persuaded with a BMFH, I use a paint scraper and drive
it in to separate. The puller as suggested at:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...2_feb/bearing/ Just
separates the bearings
http://billhughes.com/Dana30WheelBearing/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

Snow wrote:

I use a cold chisel - a paint scraper would just wad up on no time if used
on a hub from the salt belt. If you can make them out with all the rust
obfuscating things, there are three places around the edge, about midway
between the ears that the bolts go through, where there's a bit of a gap for
the chisel, just about where the holes in the backing plate are. I
alternate around these three spots, pounding until my arm gets sore, and
just about when I'm ready to give up and accept that the hub is never going
to separate from the knuckle, it begins to move a little bit.

I suggest using anti-sieze when you put the new ones in.

/Peter

"L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" <billhughes (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

You may be thinking of a pudding knife, this is pretty strong and
holds a sharper edge than a chisel:
http://www.billhughes.com/scraper.jpg Remember we're working with cast
iron that's brittle like lower A-frame of a Libby.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com
Peter Pontbriand wrote:

Sorry bout that, forgot some info... 93 XJ

Snow

"Snow" <snowbal (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

You cannot service the bearings, it is a sealed hub. Canadian Tire
sells them, but they are pricey.

They don't normally make noise though. Are you sure it isn't something
else?

I use a sacrificial bolt I have around and put it almost all the way in,
cut the wheels to the side for room, then hit it Hard with a large
hammer. 5 lb or 10 lb. I then cut the wheel the other way and move the
bolt to the other side and hit again. It 'can' be a real SOB of a job.

I would recommend you start soaking the hub flange with penetrating oil
every day for a week or so if you have that time before starting and to
use antisieze when putting the new one in.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Snow wrote:

Jeep has/had tools to service the sealed hubs. I have even seen individual
bearings and seals for sale somewhere. But remember that part of the
bearing rides on the race that is part of the hub IIRC. I have the service
kit and have disassembled one but have never put it back together......yet.
<g> This one was a little loose, probably from removal, but it looks good
and with some new seals could be saved.
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/personal/in..._Hub_Apart.JPG

http://tapcointernational.com/ will sell you some complete hub/wheel bearing
assemblies at a decent price for your Jeep.

Some people loosen the hub assembly bolts, remove the caliper bolts and pry
against a STEEL wheel and the part of the steering knuckle where the tie rod
attaches. It is supposed to easily pop the hub out of the steering knuckle
but I have not had to try this trick yet.
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1


"Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

As you see they are ball bearings, all American cars switched to
rollers back in the fifties, like the Real Jeep floaters:
http://www.apple.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Pho...elBearings.gif
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

One out of many daves wrote: