i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.

It's your electric choke. I had the same thing happen. I un pluged it
and un bolted it.Bouht a new one a year ago and still have not put it
on. It is fine with out it.

Later Mike

If the choke is open and it's still idling that high, it sounds like
the fast idle cam is stuck. Look over by the idle speed adjustment
screws on the left side. I think you'll find the fast idle screw
sitting on the top step of the fast idle cam.


On 13 May 2007 08:57:13 -0700, 88yj <scrrules11 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:

Buy a rebuild kit for the carburetor, then disconnect the fast idle step
motor, via the "Nutter bypass":
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm#diagram
http://www.billhughes.com/mirror/nutterbypass.htm
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/


"88yj" <scrrules11 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote



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Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
and... anyway.

There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
head to the firewall. This does go bad.

It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...

A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
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88yj wrote:

On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma... (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote:
the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.

88yj wrote:
OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?

It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?

A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.

Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
should be affected by the engine warming up too.

Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
near any?

Mike

On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma... (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote:
no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines

88yj wrote:
I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.

Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
without starting it to verify the choke is closed.

I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.

Mike

On May 13, 10:01 pm, MikeChamb... (AT) webtv (DOT) net (Mike chambers) wrote:
would it fix the problem right when i unplug it or do i have to unbolt
it too?