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#1
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#2
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I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#3
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That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) MStevens003 wrote: I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#4
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Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum.... Mike Mike Romain wrote: That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) MStevens003 wrote: I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#5
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Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year? I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question. "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum.... Mike Mike Romain wrote: That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) MStevens003 wrote: I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#6
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We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough to run a sled on. Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around? There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each.... I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that? Mike MStevens003 wrote: Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year? I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question. "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum.... Mike Mike Romain wrote: That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) MStevens003 wrote: I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#7
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One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it? Mike Mike Romain wrote: We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough to run a sled on. Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around? There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each.... I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that? Mike MStevens003 wrote: Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year? I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question. "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum.... Mike Mike Romain wrote: That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) MStevens003 wrote: I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#8
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One other thing came to mind, does it move when you put the power to it? Mike Mike Romain wrote: We have basically no snow at all here in Southern Ontario. I was up north a couple weeks ago and they had very little too. Barely enough to run a sled on. Too bad about the blown part. I think I would look for a used carb for parts. Maybe someone upgraded and has the old one kicking around? There are two Rochester E2SE carbs for sale on ebay for $75 each.... I doubt it would pass the smog, but how does it run like that? Mike MStevens003 wrote: Hi Mike: How are thos Canadian snows this year? I know what it does and the specs-I do RTFM. I've tested it and it holds no vacuum energised or not, hence my question. "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:45ce520a$0$2992$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Oh and if the power is off to the part, it will not hold any vacuum.... Mike Mike Romain wrote: That part is 'supposed' to leak vacuum. It is called leak down and it is supposed to drop from 20 inches to 15 or five inches in 5 seconds. My book doesn't say how fast to 0, but the top test. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) MStevens003 wrote: I'm rebuilding the carb on the '81 exArmy CJ5. It's the Rochester E2SE and my vacuum test show the mixture control solenoid is caput. My delema is that I can not find this part under $85 and as there might be other problems when the rebuild is finished (I'm no expert here I might adjust the carb wrong) should I spend the $350 for a new carb, buy the bit or just put the bad solenoid back and hope it runs OK and passes California smog? If you recommend I buy the new carb shall I stay with the E2SE or are there any cheaper or better alternatives? Thanks, Mike Stevens |
#9
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See nothing move not hear any noise. But I got bigger problems. The needle and seat in the kit is quite different from in my carb and I think I threw the old needleaway! The only way I can now see to get it back together is to retap the hole or re thread the seat. Things are real tight right now and I was hoping to sell the CJ5 to see me throiugh a while. If I had the cash I'd just buy a new carb. (Thinks???) Maybe I get my wife to sell her bug. AND now as I proof this message I see my Outlook Express has a Foreign spell checker. Just for fun after I send this post I'll send you the corrected by Outlook! |
#10
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REPLIE as correcte by Outlook! Sée notion move not Heard anya noise. But I goth biger problèmes. The Nedelec and Seat in the kit Is quitte différent frome in mye carbi and I tin I the ord needleaway! The onlay waw I Can no se to gent It back Noether Is to retapa the houle or ré thread the Seat. Tins are real right no and I wasp homing to sel the CCCJ to se me throiugh a white. If I hadj the cash Id Just bu a new carbi. (Tins???) Maye I gent mye wifi to sel heur bug. AND no as I proof This message I se mye Outlook Express has a Forgien sel check. Just for fun acter I sen This post Ill send You the correcte by Outlook! Mike |
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