...just finished installing a new clutch on my 85 cj7 /amc 150
4popper. Now the clutch won't disengage...I bled the hydraulic clutch
system...I'm sure I put the disc on properly...the only way i could
get it to work was to use a 6 inch socket extender in place of the
slave cylinder push rod. It's working but what went wrong? Where did
I lose the space?? Why is the clutch slave push rod now too short??
Any ideas?

The most obvious is wrong parts. Do you notice any difference between the
old and new parts? Your Jeep is ten years older than mine, but a 6 inch
socket extender seems kind of long. If the ends aren't exactly right too,
your new "push rod" is going to wear funny and no doubt fall off with time.
Also, is the clutch actuating arm seated properly on the pivot? I believe
that it sits on a pivot inside the bell housing on your model, and that if
it has popped off of there that might account for the missing space.

Earle

<alexmacpherson (AT) rogers (DOT) com> wrote

We believe you're missing the fork's pivot ball, number twenty:
http://www.billhughes.com/clutch/ Seems like a part you could pop in from
the outside, via a mirror and prayers.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/


<alexmacpherson (AT) rogers (DOT) com> wrote



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On Mar 26, 12:12 am, "L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III" <billhug... (AT) cox (DOT) net>
wrote:
the clutch fork doesn't look like the one in the diagram-the slave
cylinder push rod enters on the passenger's side, and there is a pivot
ball on the driver's side -I checked-pulled the inspection plate-and I
could see the ball still there. However, there never was part 20 from
the beginning when I opened it up...Is that plastic?

alexmacpherson (AT) rogers (DOT) com wrote:
From my experience with CJ's if the parts don't 'look' the same as the
drawing, you have the wrong parts....

I went through 3 or 4 throw out bearings trying to find one to match
mine, then gave up piecing it together and bought a kit with a totally
different bearing again in it. The one in the kit matched though.

There is a slot in some of the bearings the shift fork slides in and
others had clips on the back. One made the fork in the wrong place.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

On Mar 26, 10:36 am, Mike Romain <roma... (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote:
The new throwout bearing seated the same way that the previous one
did, with 2 spring tabs and 2 little stubs that mate with holes in the
throwout bearing's collar. I did not think to measure the throwout
bearing height compared to the old one..they appeared to be similar.
Note: I did find yellow plastic fragments in the sludge at the bottom
of the bellhousing when I first removed it and cleaned it. I'm
guessing that was the previous pivot that had worn away. My temporary
pushrod solution seems to work -the clutch disengages fully. Could I
just find an adjustable push rod and use that?

alexmacpherson (AT) rogers (DOT) com wrote:
Height was a big issue on mine. The bearings were different height as
well as some grabbed different. The interesting part was the different
designs actually fit on the fork.

If you got a different height one and everything works with the shorter
rod, I would think about just changing the rod. As long as you still
have enough travel, you should be ok.

Mike

On Mar 26, 12:31 pm, Mike Romain <roma... (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote:
Thanks for your insight guys, very much appreciated!

Does the clutch fork have spring clips? Did you hook the spring clips
over the release bearing? At first glance it looks like that's what
you're supposed to do, but then they push the slave cylinder piston
back in and throw it out of adjustment. The spring won't let the
hydraulics "pump back out", but the 6" socket extension bottoms out
the self adjustment of the slave cylinder so it seems to work
normally.

Fortunately it's an easy fix if that's the problem. Pop the fork off
the pivot ball, pull it off the release bearing, and feed it back in
so that both the springs and fork ends fit in the same groove of the
release bearing. There should be room to do that without dropping the
transmission again.

-rev



On Mar 25, 10:18 pm, alexmacpher... (AT) rogers (DOT) com wrote:

On Mar 27, 5:35 pm, "The Reverend Natural Light"
<rever... (AT) fourthgen (DOT) org> wrote:
Not sure if that is the case...the retaining spring tabs on the clutch
fork don't seem to allow the bearing to seat any other possible
way...however, I have confirmed that I am indeed missing the plastic
'pivot' that rides on the end of the push rod and I have ordered that
part..hopefully that will help. The amc 150 clutch setup is not
exactly the same as the GM 2.5 or the 6 cyl - most diagrams show the 6
cylinder or the gm...my Haynes manual was this way too - there was no
diagram showing the clutch fork that I have. (I should have a FSM!!)