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#1
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#2
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I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it? Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway, which doesn't make me feel particularly safe. And thanks for the help so far! Clint |
#3
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I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it? Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway, which doesn't make me feel particularly safe. And thanks for the help so far! Clint |
#4
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I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it? Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway, which doesn't make me feel particularly safe. And thanks for the help so far! Clint |
#5
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When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal grabs, that's all you got...... There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that adjust the rear shoes up. There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal. The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one. That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say how many 'clicks' it should be at. Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or about the same time the shoes are worn out. If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt) Clint wrote: I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it? Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway, which doesn't make me feel particularly safe. And thanks for the help so far! Clint |
#6
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Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike. AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago, they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do drive, it's almost all highway). The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should be adjusted for 5 "clicks". Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks for that. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:427554AF.38D7169F (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca... When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal grabs, that's all you got...... There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that adjust the rear shoes up. There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal. The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one. That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say how many 'clicks' it should be at. Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or about the same time the shoes are worn out. If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt) Clint wrote: I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it? Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway, which doesn't make me feel particularly safe. And thanks for the help so far! Clint |
#7
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Thanks for the input, Bill and Mike. AFAIK, I still have rear brakes. At a check-up done about 6 months ago, they were at about 50%, and I haven't been driving that much (and when I do drive, it's almost all highway). The e-brake does grab a bit, but I can sink the pedal down to the floor without trying to hard. It does hold the truck on a slight slope, but not on my driveway, so not good enough. Oh, and the FSM says the e-brake should be adjusted for 5 "clicks". Mike, where are the star wheels you're talking about? I'll take a look around the rear wheels for the adjuster cables you and Bill mention. Thanks for that. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:427554AF.38D7169F (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca... When you have brand new drums, cables and shoes, the e-brake still won't hold solid in reverse...... Just the nature of the beast. If the pedal grabs, that's all you got...... There is only one 'real' adjustment and that is the star wheels that adjust the rear shoes up. There is an installation for new cables set up. Different animal. The rear shoes must first be set up perfect, then you tighten the nut on the splitter where the two rear main cables attach to the front one. That is back in front of the rear wheels so the handle or pedal hits a little less that half way through it's travel. The book might even say how many 'clicks' it should be at. Then with new brake shoes to start, the pedal will go all the way to the floor over a short period of time at the end of the brake shoe life or about the same time the shoes are worn out. If the pedal drops and you have rear shoes left, then likely the star wheels have seized up or the adjuster cable has snapped so the rear brakes aren't self adjusting anymore or one of the main cables has rotted and stretched. (I see that in the salt belt) Clint wrote: I've got the FSM for the truck, which gives the spec's on how much to torque it, but can someone point out where it is I'm supposed to tighten it, and can I use something besides the "Adjustment Gauge (J-34651)" to adjust it? Right now, the brake alone isn't enough to keep my truck on my driveway, which doesn't make me feel particularly safe. And thanks for the help so far! Clint |
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