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OT - Working on the minivan
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OT - Working on the minivan -
07-18-2003
, 08:12 PM
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Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was going down. I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off. The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor. The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out. My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the coil? I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks. |
#3
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Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was going down. I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off. The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor. The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out. My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the coil? I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks. |
#4
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Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled it up ??? See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for spark by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would do that first before digging into the electronics. I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have an innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me. "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF (AT) YAHOO (DOT) COM> wrote in news:vhh3765p9qen3b (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com: Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was going down. I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off. The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor. The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out. My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the coil? I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks. |
#5
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It's a '93, and in California they can't do that check anymore. The parts store I go to said the mechanics protested having a consumer have the knowledge for free that is takes a $150 gadget to suck out. "HomeBrewer" <t3e871xxx (AT) earthlink (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bfa8r5$cq5ht$1 (AT) ID-197365 (DOT) news.uni-berlin.de... What year is the van? If it's newer than 96 (or maybe it's 98) you can get a code at any parts store. Have them hook up the machine and print the code for you. -- HomeBrewer http://home.earthlink.net/~t3e871/index.html www.rcparkflyers.com Remove the xxx to reply! "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF (AT) YAHOO (DOT) COM> wrote in message news:vhh3765p9qen3b (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com... Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was going down. I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off. The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor. The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out. My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the coil? I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks. |
#6
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There is pressure, and very little return, during engine start. There is no spark. "Rich Pierson" <fist (AT) ptd (DOT) net> wrote in message news:Xns93BCD6D481C57fistptdnet (AT) 204 (DOT) 186.201.17... Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled it up ??? See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for spark by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would do that first before digging into the electronics. I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have an innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me. "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF (AT) YAHOO (DOT) COM> wrote in news:vhh3765p9qen3b (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com: Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was going down. I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off. The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor. The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out. My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the coil? I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks. |
#7
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Our 87YJ died like that a couple of weeks ago, I shot gunned it with a new cap, rotor, wires and coil. Finally strapped it to a shop 3 miles away [now I know why straps are no good for towing, they make nasty noises when they go under the towed wheels] and paid $80 for a diag, turned out to be the ECU under the w/s washer bottle, plunked down $90 at National Auto and stuck it in. At least it does not need new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil anytime soon. To your problem, any friends that have a diag puter for it, thats probably the best way. You say there is pressure, is there gas coming out when you push the schrader or just air pressure ?? I could have sworn I saw cheap diag puters in the local National Auto parts store for like $50 or so, by manufacturer. You could spend a fortune shotgun trouble shooting it. |
connect. The tool at the store cost $150, so I bought one, but it wouldn't
connect to anything.
Quote:
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"CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF (AT) YAHOO (DOT) COM> wrote in news:vhimqsai80hj06 (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com: There is pressure, and very little return, during engine start. There is no spark. "Rich Pierson" <fist (AT) ptd (DOT) net> wrote in message news:Xns93BCD6D481C57fistptdnet (AT) 204 (DOT) 186.201.17... Hmmm, did you check the gas ?? :-) Did she just happen to have filled it up ??? See if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail first, then look for spark by pulling one plug and setting it against the engine. I would do that first before digging into the electronics. I would really check the gas though, ever since I got my 98XJ I have an innate distrust of fuel gauges.. I've considerd mounting mine face forward on the front corner post and let it do 'jeep waves' for me. "CRWLR" <CRWLRJEFF (AT) YAHOO (DOT) COM> wrote in news:vhh3765p9qen3b (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com: Mrs. CRWLR called me at work today to say that our van was riding around on the back of a flatbed. I checked spark, there is none. She said that power loss was gradual, not sudden. That said, it gradually lost power but she still couldn't get in into the parking lot and had to bail out in the street. She described the motor as lagging in power, and missing as it was going down. I am inclined to not go after the CPS (multiport injected V6 in a Mazda MPV), mostly because I don't know where the damn thing is, but the coil and igniter are right on the fender and easy to take off. The igniter (it says igniter right on the side) has a 5-pin connector, the pins are marked in order C G B IGt IGf. Is there a way to test this device with a multi meter to determine if it is serviceable or not? The wires that go to the igniter also appear to go to the coil and a gizmo that looks for all the world like a huge transistor. The assembly that contains the coil includes the igniter, and another device that appears similar to a transistor. The transistor has one leg grounded to the frame of the assembly, and two other legs that go to a connector. All three of thest parts appear to be interconnected; I say this because of the shared wire colors, the wires actually all go into a loom, then come out again on another connector. It is difficult to tell if the wires really are the same, but a few test with my multimeter will get this sorted out. My main concerns are, can I test the igniter thingie, and can I test the coil? I could simply exercise the checkbook, but I prefer to understand stuff more complicated than the Bic pen I use to fill in the blanks. |
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