Is it broken?

I really wouldn't mess with an old one unless it was broke. Pumping air
bubbles around with high pressure surges of fluid can do bad things to
old seals....

That said, the 4.2 calls for Dexron ATF in the power steering. It
should say so on the filler cap. If not, then don't mix the two fluids
or you will destroy all the seals for sure.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
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Scott Smith wrote:

Scott Smith did pass the time by typing:
Can't answer the question on the proper fluid. I always use what's called for in the service book.

As to flushing it, drain/refill/run/drain/refill/run/etc works A turkey
baster comes in handy for draining the reservoir.

When I replaced the return hose in my ZJ, I ran the return line into a bottle
and plugged the port on the reservoir, then filled up the reservoir and pumped
it through by hand (turned the pump pulley with a stick)

Some folks have put a high flow hydraulic filter in the return line. I've got
enough hose in there to do that but haven't gotten around to installing one.

--
DougW

Belt slippage?

"Scott Smith" <scottgsmith@@#$@$@%#$#@gmail.com> wrote

A steering stabilizer shock going bad or a ball joint failing can cause
your symptoms.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Scott Smith wrote:

Hi Scott,
Use only what's been especially designed for power steering:
http://www.billhughes.com/PSFluid.jpg For a while some of us used
automatic transmission fluid, which quickly destroyed rack and pinions
of the seventies econo boxes. Now toping off with ATF may cause bubbles
that could create the problem you describe.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com

Scott Smith wrote:

I was told by a used car dealer in Redmond, WA that dirty power steering
fluid can really be a problem in rack and pinion design front drive cars.
He had some method of diverting the return line into a drain container,
running the engine, and refilling the reservoir until what came out was
clean. He swore by it. He sold a lot of cars too, mostly older, 100,000
mi. plus vehicles where this would be a problem. I figured this guy would
know, how many power steering boxes he had replaced, before and after
adopting this policy. I bought a couple cars from him, and never had a
problem with the power steering in either one.

If you're going to do this, and you can figure out a reasonable method, then
I agree that mixing fluids is a bad idea. Just use whatever the standard
power steering fluid is, and don't try to drain it all out at once. The
fluid is cheap. You can drain the return line, for example, and refill the
reservoir repeatedly, without introducing air into the system.

There seem to be a lot of new Jeep owners, with recycled vehicles, in this
news group now. They want to do something to the vehicle, anything, that
will prolong its life, make it perform better, whatever. There is something
to the philosophy, that says that fixing things that are not broken, is a
waste of time. Otoh, looking at dirty fluid every time you do a level check
can be irritating. (But I lived with jet black motor oil in my Chevy for a
year, until I got around to replacing the engine.)

Earle

"Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote

If you were to siphon the reservoir and refill with new power steering
fluid, operate briefly, and repeat several times you would have effectively
flushed the system of its old and dirty fluid.

The procedure below is for the initial setup for a new pump but gives sound
advise that can be adapted.

CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic
transmission fluid and do not overfill.

Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level. The dipstick should
indicate COLD when the fluid is at normal ambient temperature.

(1) Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid
settle for at least two minutes.

(2) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds then turn engine off.

(3) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level
remains constant after running the engine.

(4) Raise the front wheels off the ground.

(5) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting the
wheel stops at least 20 times.

(6) Check the fluid level add if necessary.

(7) Lower the vehicle, start the engine and turn the steering wheel slowly
from lock to lock.

(8) Stop the engine and check the fluid level and refill as required.

CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for an extended period. This
may cause pump damage.

(9) If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow the vehicle to
stand a few minutes and repeat the procedure.





"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote

Those directions are for a 'new' pump. The new pumps use different
fluid than the old 4.2L setups.

I recommend you check what is in there. If it is red, 'don't' switch to
that expensive Chrysler junk or you will likely blow every seal in the
system.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Scott Smith wrote: