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Still having high idle problem on 88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l)
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#31
 
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Re: Still having high idle problem on 88 Jeep Comanche (4.0l) -
04-03-2007
, 09:31 PM
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Left or right side? Can you give me more specific directions on what I'm looking for (besides a dangling hose)? Should I be looking up from underneath? All these problems (idling) seemed to start when I replaced the rad and water pump, so this very well could be the culprit. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612fbb0$0$18167$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Now I am more thinking you are missing something... CCV unplugged or one of the lines to the air filter box. There is one way down low in the front by the rad that controls the heat pipe for the air filter. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: So I went out to a local wrecker, and they had about 6 Cherokee's, all of about the right vintage. 3 of them still had their IAC's, but all of them were automatic's, so I couldn't yank the TPS's. Kind of disappointed by the lack of selection on those. Anyway, the "new" IAC only cost $2 (the entire throttle body with add-ons was only $20), but it had exactly the same effect as the old one. *sigh* So I'm still looking for a TPS to plug in there. Anyone know if the automatic tranny version of the sensor has any hope of working? Or would I just be asking for even more pain? Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612cd16$0$6402$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low in, but it doesn't say for sure. It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned. Mike Clint wrote: I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Does your meter not have a volt setting? Mike Clint wrote: To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the IAS to make sure it's working correctly? BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly. I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need to replace/adjust that. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS. With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give that a whirl. As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes!  I'm getting very intimate with my throttle area...Clint "Will Honea" <whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:46121333$0$494$815e3792 (AT) news (DOT) qwest.net... Clint wrote: So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two. *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well, logic isn't required, I guess. I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part" type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least. I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75 for a new one - several suppliers to chose from. Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the other two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the pins. Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75! FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer with the 4.0 engine. -- Will Honea whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com |
#32
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I will look tomorrow on mine for sure, but I think it is at the bottom front side of the air filter box. There should be an outlet there for a heat pipe that runs to the exhaust to suck hot air when the engine is cold. These heat pipe hoses usually rot away but there is a vacuum motor down there to turn it on. It would be a small vacuum line on a nipple. My Haynes implies there could be a vacuum line on the fender side of this motor. Mike Clint wrote: Left or right side? Can you give me more specific directions on what I'm looking for (besides a dangling hose)? Should I be looking up from underneath? All these problems (idling) seemed to start when I replaced the rad and water pump, so this very well could be the culprit. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612fbb0$0$18167$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Now I am more thinking you are missing something... CCV unplugged or one of the lines to the air filter box. There is one way down low in the front by the rad that controls the heat pipe for the air filter. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: So I went out to a local wrecker, and they had about 6 Cherokee's, all of about the right vintage. 3 of them still had their IAC's, but all of them were automatic's, so I couldn't yank the TPS's. Kind of disappointed by the lack of selection on those. Anyway, the "new" IAC only cost $2 (the entire throttle body with add-ons was only $20), but it had exactly the same effect as the old one. *sigh* So I'm still looking for a TPS to plug in there. Anyone know if the automatic tranny version of the sensor has any hope of working? Or would I just be asking for even more pain? Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612cd16$0$6402$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low in, but it doesn't say for sure. It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned. Mike Clint wrote: I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Does your meter not have a volt setting? Mike Clint wrote: To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the IAS to make sure it's working correctly? BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly. I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need to replace/adjust that. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS. With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give that a whirl. As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! I'm getting very intimate with my throttle area...Clint "Will Honea" <whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:46121333$0$494$815e3792 (AT) news (DOT) qwest.net... Clint wrote: So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two. *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well, logic isn't required, I guess. I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part" type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least. I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75 for a new one - several suppliers to chose from. Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the other two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the pins. Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75! FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer with the 4.0 engine. -- Will Honea whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com |
#33
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I will look tomorrow on mine for sure, but I think it is at the bottom front side of the air filter box. There should be an outlet there for a heat pipe that runs to the exhaust to suck hot air when the engine is cold. These heat pipe hoses usually rot away but there is a vacuum motor down there to turn it on. It would be a small vacuum line on a nipple. My Haynes implies there could be a vacuum line on the fender side of this motor. Mike Clint wrote: Left or right side? Can you give me more specific directions on what I'm looking for (besides a dangling hose)? Should I be looking up from underneath? All these problems (idling) seemed to start when I replaced the rad and water pump, so this very well could be the culprit. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612fbb0$0$18167$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Now I am more thinking you are missing something... CCV unplugged or one of the lines to the air filter box. There is one way down low in the front by the rad that controls the heat pipe for the air filter. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: So I went out to a local wrecker, and they had about 6 Cherokee's, all of about the right vintage. 3 of them still had their IAC's, but all of them were automatic's, so I couldn't yank the TPS's. Kind of disappointed by the lack of selection on those. Anyway, the "new" IAC only cost $2 (the entire throttle body with add-ons was only $20), but it had exactly the same effect as the old one. *sigh* So I'm still looking for a TPS to plug in there. Anyone know if the automatic tranny version of the sensor has any hope of working? Or would I just be asking for even more pain? Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612cd16$0$6402$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low in, but it doesn't say for sure. It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned. Mike Clint wrote: I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... Does your meter not have a volt setting? Mike Clint wrote: To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the IAS to make sure it's working correctly? BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly. I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need to replace/adjust that. Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca> wrote in message news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea (AT) unlimited (DOT) newshosting.com... If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS. With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give that a whirl. As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! I'm getting very intimate with my throttle area...Clint "Will Honea" <whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:46121333$0$494$815e3792 (AT) news (DOT) qwest.net... Clint wrote: So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two. *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well, logic isn't required, I guess. I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part" type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least. I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75 for a new one - several suppliers to chose from. Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the other two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the pins. Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75! FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer with the 4.0 engine. -- Will Honea whonea (AT) yahoo (DOT) com |
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