I'm helping my friend change out his proportioning (metering?) valve on his
CJ-5. Do I really need to use a flange wrench to disconnect the brake
lines? Why cant I use a regular open end wrench?

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 07:13:06 -0500, "Jo Baggs" <Jo (AT) says (DOT) shaddup> wrote:

If they are not too tight, too rusted, too frozen, yes an openend will
sometimes work. But the proper wrench increases the chances you will
get it done without destroying the fitting.

Jo Baggs wrote:
I found out the first time I tried to change out a brake line. Thought it
was my cheap wrench so went down to Snap-On (they actually had a _store_ in
that town) and got one of theirs and it spread and slipped too. I took it
back and complained and the guy behind the counter asked me what I was
trying to do and I told him and he said "Oh, for that you need a flare-nut
wrench" which I bought and lived happily ever after, at least after I filed
the burrs off the fitting that I had put there with the open end wrench.

Sometimes an open end wrench will work on a flare nut, sometimes it
won't--depends on how tight it is.

Now, the problem with using an open end wrench is that if it _doesn't_ work
you've buggered up the fitting and will probably need to do some dressing on
it to get the flare-nut wrench on it and if it's buggered up badly enough
you may not be able to get it off at all with _any_ tool without cutting the
brake line.

You're going to want to clean the fitting as best you can by the way--a good
flare-nut wrench is a tight fit and crud on the fitting may prevent the
correct size from going on at all.

Hi Jo,
YES! http://www.billhughes.com/temp/LWrench.jpg Remember brake fluid
condenses water, more than likely you'll see your master cylinder covered
with rusty mist, too. Get a quality six sided 5/16" socket and WD-40 for
your bleeders too.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:BillHughes (AT) billhughes (DOT) com
http://www.billhughes.com/jeep_bookmark.htm

"Jo Baggs" <Jo (AT) says (DOT) shaddup> wrote

On Wed, 7 Oct 2009 10:42:38 -0400, "J. Clarke"
<jclarke.usenet (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote:

BTW, in an emergency a flare nut wrench can be made from a (good
quality) box wrench and a die-cutter... Remove just enough to allow it
to slip over the brake line, and no more.

"Jo Baggs" <Jo (AT) says (DOT) shaddup> wrote

The flare wrench contacts the corners of the flare nut, the regular wrench
contacts the flats. Due to the nature of the flare fitting, working on two
flats can cause the fitting to be deformed.

Jeff Strickland wrote:

Followed by a pair of big honking vicegrips, a new nut, and a flaring tool.
I keep a 6-point box end for the bleeder valves and I've twisted off more
than I like to remember - those suckers seem to grow in there. Some people
suggest using a small hammer to tap all around the nut to help break them
loose but that never did much for me. A quality wrench is the answer.Once
you get it started anything will do but that first pop is critical.

--
Will Honea

On Oct 7, 8:13*am, "Jo Baggs" <J... (AT) says (DOT) shaddup> wrote:
I keep a 4 inch pipe wrench handy when I bugger up fittings

"Coasty" <coasty (AT) live (DOT) com> wrote

On Oct 7, 8:13 am, "Jo Baggs" <J... (AT) says (DOT) shaddup> wrote:
I keep a 4 inch pipe wrench handy when I bugger up fittings


<JS>
What do you use it for, a club?


</JS>

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlrjeff (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

OOPs, a 4-inch club is not very persuasive. What was I thinking?