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Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?

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  #11  
Old   
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 04:24 PM






I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

JD Adams wrote:
Quote:
Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.

I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.

He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.

I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
--all pretty common sense stuff IMO.

Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)

-JD

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  #12  
Old   
Bob Casanova
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 04:40 PM






On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, posted by Clay
<clay (AT) mation (DOT) com>:

Quote:
Earle Horton wrote:
An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
coating.

If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.

Earle

Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
just keep going.
--

Bob C.

"Evidence confirming an observation is
evidence that the observation is wrong."
- McNameless


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  #13  
Old   
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Off Topic Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 05:16 PM



Was that Bill Gates?
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

Earle Horton wrote:
Quote:
An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
coating.

If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.

Earle

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  #14  
Old   
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 05:39 PM



If it is a rust inhibitor red iron oxide or zinc paint. I kind of
remember one of our elected officials telling us that, as one of our
water reservoirs leaked and dissolved before our eyes.
Rust is a good disinfectant, at least as an excuse to take my tax
payers moneys in government grants:
http://water.usgs.gov/wrri/05grants/...005AZ114G.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

Clay wrote:
Quote:
Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

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  #15  
Old   
Clay
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 06:25 PM



Bob Casanova wrote:
Quote:
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys, posted by Clay
clay (AT) mation (DOT) com>:

Earle Horton wrote:
An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
coating.

If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.

Earle

Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
just keep going.
--

Bob C.

Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:

"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
hammerscale."

Micaceous Iron Oxide
Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
Designations:
Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
Description:
1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
in manufacturing paint coatings.
2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
throughout the world.*
4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
is chemically resistant.


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  #16  
Old   
Earle Horton
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 07:04 PM



That's what makes me believe, that this "dry thread" nonsense, is insane.
Nowhere else have I seen torque tightening specifications, for "dry
threads". It is always "lightly lubricated" threads. By the way, "those
el-cheapo OEM lug nuts" that JD Adams is talking about, are probably
designed that way on purpose, to spare the wheel studs from the kind of
damage that those "heavily chromed, forged steel lugs" are going to be
dishing out.

This is almost as much fun, as last night's Town Council meeting.

Earle

"L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" <billhughes (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

Quote:
I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

JD Adams wrote:

Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.

I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.

He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.

I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
--all pretty common sense stuff IMO.

Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)

-JD



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  #17  
Old   
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Off Topic Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 07:21 PM



Hi Earle,
My Oceanside, Vista, Escondido, City Council meetings used to be
televised by the cable company until they realized the looks like fools,
quibble over the small stuff. And it's how harder to see that it takes
about sixty thousand in grease to change a lot from residential, to
apartment zoning.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

Earle Horton wrote:
Quote:
That's what makes me believe, that this "dry thread" nonsense, is insane.
Nowhere else have I seen torque tightening specifications, for "dry
threads". It is always "lightly lubricated" threads. By the way, "those
el-cheapo OEM lug nuts" that JD Adams is talking about, are probably
designed that way on purpose, to spare the wheel studs from the kind of
damage that those "heavily chromed, forged steel lugs" are going to be
dishing out.

This is almost as much fun, as last night's Town Council meeting.

Earle

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  #18  
Old   
twaldron
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 07:25 PM



In that situation, I would use PB Blaster prior to loosening to save the
lugs. I can't see how grease, put on the threads after the nut went on,
could possibly be a problem on a lug that won't see unthreading for 20
yrs.

tw
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________


L.W.(ßill) Hughes III wrote:
Quote:
I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old   
twaldron
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 07:29 PM



How many people are at your town council meeting in Silverton?

tw
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________


Earle Horton wrote:
Quote:
That's what makes me believe, that this "dry thread" nonsense, is insane.
Nowhere else have I seen torque tightening specifications, for "dry
threads". It is always "lightly lubricated" threads. By the way, "those
el-cheapo OEM lug nuts" that JD Adams is talking about, are probably
designed that way on purpose, to spare the wheel studs from the kind of
damage that those "heavily chromed, forged steel lugs" are going to be
dishing out.

This is almost as much fun, as last night's Town Council meeting.

Earle

Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old   
twaldron
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-22-2006 , 07:34 PM



Have you ever broken a lug installing or removing a nut? While I have
never, ever lubed lugs, grease just seems incredibly heavy. Have you
tried just a drop of plain machine oil?

tw
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________


JD Adams wrote:
Quote:
Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.

I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.

He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.

I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
--all pretty common sense stuff IMO.

Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)

-JD


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