Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?

#41

No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
SERVICE PROCEDURES

WHEEL INSTALLATION

The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific

applications. They must be replaced with equivalent

parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality

or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel

wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an

enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to

ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.

NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with

chrome plated wheels.

Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any

build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.

Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal

contact. Improper installation could cause loosening

of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling

of your vehicle.

To install the wheel, first position it properly on

the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be

tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in

sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.

"L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" <billhughes (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

Quote:

And of course, seal them away from the weather by replacing the
protective cover.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

billy ray wrote:

FWIW:
This is what the WJ manual (section 22 Page 9) says about the topic.

"To install the wheel, first position it properly on
the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be

tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in

sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts."

#42

So take your caps off, you don't need them.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:LWHughes3rd (AT) aol (DOT) com http://www.billhughes.com/

billy ray wrote:

Quote:

No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
SERVICE PROCEDURES

WHEEL INSTALLATION

The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific

applications. They must be replaced with equivalent

parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality

or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel

wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an

enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to

ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.

NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with

chrome plated wheels.

Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any

build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.

Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal

contact. Improper installation could cause loosening

of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling

of your vehicle.

To install the wheel, first position it properly on

the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be

tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in

sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.

#43

Pumper Hinkle wrote:

Quote:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato

I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
my info but it was a long time ago.

The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)

Ralph

The pizza came first.

http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm

--
FRH

#44

LOL !!!!!

"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS (AT) rubicons (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

Earle Horton wrote:

It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.

Earle

You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.

#45

I have always sprayed my studs with a thin WD-40 type spray. I know specs
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.

Tom

"JD Adams" <JDAdams (AT) Softcom (DOT) Net> wrote

Quote:

Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.

I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.

He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.

I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
--all pretty common sense stuff IMO.

Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)

-JD

#46

Same here, Tom. I figure that as long as everything is torqued equally
and in star-pattern stages AND you stay within the torque-range specs,
you're probably okay. I go with the low-end of the specs just for good
measure.

Worth mentioning: removing the factory lugs was a pain. They were on
WAY too tight. I've seen this with oil filters as well; I changed one
on a friend's PT Cruiser that was so tight that the filter wrench
twisted the steel case right off the base. I had to use a pneumatic
cutting wheel to get the rest off --tapping it loose with a hammer and
screwdriver/chisel could not happen because the oil filter boss was
made of aluminum.

Worse, the first time I tried to pull the steel oil filter cover off
The Beater, it wouldn't budge, even when I hit it with a 125-psi.
impact gun. I actually had to resort to a 13/16" wrench hooked to a 4
foot cheater bar to get that sucker to budge! Thought I was going to
deform the oil pan at one point. I called the previous owner to find
out who in hell put that thing on so tight, just out of curiousity.

Figures. The offending installer: JIFFY LUBE.

#47

Hi All,

I was about to put an extra transmission cooler on the TJ, in front of the
radiator, and realised that the cooler was too big to slide between the open
slots. I did a bit of research on the internet and all I got was that I
would have to remove the radiator and discharge the a/c system to be able to
have access to the back of the grille. Does anybody know of an easier way
to just remove the front of the grille (i.e. the grille cover). I don't
want to remove the whole assembly (which is what requires removal of the
radiator and the a/c condenser).

Appreciate your ideas in advance. I am also putting a temp gauge in between
to measure the transmission oil temp.

Thanks
TW
---------
'01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME 2.5" Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL

#48

Is there a way to slide it in from below? Seems like you could remove the
flimsy splashguard under the rad pretty easily but I can't remember how much
clearance there is.

"TW" <attw (AT) wave (DOT) co.nz (delete this)> wrote

Quote:

Hi All,

I was about to put an extra transmission cooler on the TJ, in front of the
radiator, and realised that the cooler was too big to slide between the
open slots. I did a bit of research on the internet and all I got was
that I would have to remove the radiator and discharge the a/c system to
be able to have access to the back of the grille. Does anybody know of an
easier way to just remove the front of the grille (i.e. the grille cover).
I don't want to remove the whole assembly (which is what requires removal
of the radiator and the a/c condenser).

Appreciate your ideas in advance. I am also putting a temp gauge in
between to measure the transmission oil temp.

Thanks
TW
---------
'01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44
265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME 2.5" Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL

#49

I have already had a look, but the bottom part of the grille frame makes is
not open. Any other ideas?

Thanks
TW

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt (AT) nospamplease (DOT) com> wrote

Is there a way to slide it in from below? Seems like you could remove the
flimsy splashguard under the rad pretty easily but I can't remember how much
clearance there is.

#50

I think you might have to resign yourself to taking off the grille.

"TW" <attw (AT) wave (DOT) co.nz (delete this)> wrote

Quote:

I have already had a look, but the bottom part of the grille frame makes is
not open. Any other ideas?

Thanks
TW

"Matt Macchiarolo" <matt (AT) nospamplease (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:Gdadndp2hNX1pKLZ4p2dnA (AT) comcast (DOT) com...
Is there a way to slide it in from below? Seems like you could remove the
flimsy splashguard under the rad pretty easily but I can't remember how
much
clearance there is.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?

Jeep and Willys Vehicles Discussions on Jeep and Willys vehicles. (rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys)

Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-23-2006 , 04:24 PM

Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-23-2006 , 07:53 PM

Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-23-2006 , 08:02 PM

Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-23-2006 , 08:21 PM

Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-23-2006 , 08:24 PM

Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad? - 03-24-2006 , 11:23 AM

Taking front grille off - TJ - 04-14-2006 , 12:26 AM

Re: Taking front grille off - TJ - 04-14-2006 , 12:55 AM

Re: Taking front grille off - TJ - 04-14-2006 , 11:04 PM

Re: Taking front grille off - TJ - 04-16-2006 , 08:28 PM