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Wrangler Curb Weight
Jeep and Willys Vehicles Discussions on Jeep and Willys vehicles. (rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys)
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#11
 
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Re: Wrangler Curb Weight -
04-17-2006
, 10:59 PM
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I flat tow my CJ behind my Class C RV. Most states now require brakes on the towed vehicle. I don't use them. I take the legal chance. Am I right? no, but the system is about 3 grand for the set-up or the alternative is to buy or rent a tow dollie. I don't have anywhere to keep a tow dollie so I take my chances. That being said I drive very carefully and allow PLENTY of room to stop. The rules are posted on many RV sites if you want the info state by state. If I remember Good Sam's RV club has links to this info. There is also an RV NG that might give you a link for state by state info. As far as how you tow I suggest you get Currie tow shackles (not trying to sell for Currie). The tow shackles put your front springs into the equation. This allows for a softer connection between the tow vehicle and the jeep. Currie does a pretty good job explaining it on their website. Again I'm not trying to sell their stuff but I like them. They really make towing the CJ much more comfortable than pulling from the bumper. Remember, you can't back up when flat towing and you should make sure the towbar is as level as possible for safety. You should also remove your rear driveshaft to prevent output bearing problems on your transfer case. Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff. Hello everyone, I have a question about my 89 Wrangler. I was going to buy a tow bar for the front bumper, but was told by the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] wrangler? Thanks |
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1
#12
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ok rich, so I remove the rear drive shaft, what should I do for all the tranny lube on the output of the tranny? Any suggestions? Do I need to remove my front drive shaft as well? Thanks Rich wrote: I flat tow my CJ behind my Class C RV. Most states now require brakes on the towed vehicle. I don't use them. I take the legal chance. Am I right? no, but the system is about 3 grand for the set-up or the alternative is to buy or rent a tow dollie. I don't have anywhere to keep a tow dollie so I take my chances. That being said I drive very carefully and allow PLENTY of room to stop. The rules are posted on many RV sites if you want the info state by state. If I remember Good Sam's RV club has links to this info. There is also an RV NG that might give you a link for state by state info. As far as how you tow I suggest you get Currie tow shackles (not trying to sell for Currie). The tow shackles put your front springs into the equation. This allows for a softer connection between the tow vehicle and the jeep. Currie does a pretty good job explaining it on their website. Again I'm not trying to sell their stuff but I like them. They really make towing the CJ much more comfortable than pulling from the bumper. Remember, you can't back up when flat towing and you should make sure the towbar is as level as possible for safety. You should also remove your rear driveshaft to prevent output bearing problems on your transfer case. Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff. Hello everyone, I have a question about my 89 Wrangler. I was going to buy a tow bar for the front bumper, but was told by the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] wrangler? Thanks -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
#13
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ok rich, so I remove the rear drive shaft, what should I do for all the tranny lube on the output of the tranny? Any suggestions? Do I need to remove my front drive shaft as well? Thanks Rich wrote: I flat tow my CJ behind my Class C RV. Most states now require brakes on the towed vehicle. I don't use them. I take the legal chance. Am I right? no, but the system is about 3 grand for the set-up or the alternative is to buy or rent a tow dollie. I don't have anywhere to keep a tow dollie so I take my chances. That being said I drive very carefully and allow PLENTY of room to stop. The rules are posted on many RV sites if you want the info state by state. If I remember Good Sam's RV club has links to this info. There is also an RV NG that might give you a link for state by state info. As far as how you tow I suggest you get Currie tow shackles (not trying to sell for Currie). The tow shackles put your front springs into the equation. This allows for a softer connection between the tow vehicle and the jeep. Currie does a pretty good job explaining it on their website. Again I'm not trying to sell their stuff but I like them. They really make towing the CJ much more comfortable than pulling from the bumper. Remember, you can't back up when flat towing and you should make sure the towbar is as level as possible for safety. You should also remove your rear driveshaft to prevent output bearing problems on your transfer case. Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff. Hello everyone, I have a question about my 89 Wrangler. I was going to buy a tow bar for the front bumper, but was told by the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] wrangler? Thanks |
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/
#14
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ok rich, so I remove the rear drive shaft, what should I do for all the tranny lube on the output of the tranny? Any suggestions? Do I need to remove my front drive shaft as well? Thanks Rich wrote: I flat tow my CJ behind my Class C RV. Most states now require brakes on the towed vehicle. I don't use them. I take the legal chance. Am I right? no, but the system is about 3 grand for the set-up or the alternative is to buy or rent a tow dollie. I don't have anywhere to keep a tow dollie so I take my chances. That being said I drive very carefully and allow PLENTY of room to stop. The rules are posted on many RV sites if you want the info state by state. If I remember Good Sam's RV club has links to this info. There is also an RV NG that might give you a link for state by state info. As far as how you tow I suggest you get Currie tow shackles (not trying to sell for Currie). The tow shackles put your front springs into the equation. This allows for a softer connection between the tow vehicle and the jeep. Currie does a pretty good job explaining it on their website. Again I'm not trying to sell their stuff but I like them. They really make towing the CJ much more comfortable than pulling from the bumper. Remember, you can't back up when flat towing and you should make sure the towbar is as level as possible for safety. You should also remove your rear driveshaft to prevent output bearing problems on your transfer case. Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff. Hello everyone, I have a question about my 89 Wrangler. I was going to buy a tow bar for the front bumper, but was told by the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] wrangler? Thanks -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
#15
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I believe it was Jerry who stated that a WD40 cap fits right over the tailpiece of the transfer case and can be held on with a hose clamp. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) "RiverRunner via CarKB.com" wrote: ok rich, so I remove the rear drive shaft, what should I do for all the tranny lube on the output of the tranny? Any suggestions? Do I need to remove my front drive shaft as well? Thanks Rich wrote: I flat tow my CJ behind my Class C RV. Most states now require brakes on the towed vehicle. I don't use them. I take the legal chance. Am I right? no, but the system is about 3 grand for the set-up or the alternative is to buy or rent a tow dollie. I don't have anywhere to keep a tow dollie so I take my chances. That being said I drive very carefully and allow PLENTY of room to stop. The rules are posted on many RV sites if you want the info state by state. If I remember Good Sam's RV club has links to this info. There is also an RV NG that might give you a link for state by state info. As far as how you tow I suggest you get Currie tow shackles (not trying to sell for Currie). The tow shackles put your front springs into the equation. This allows for a softer connection between the tow vehicle and the jeep. Currie does a pretty good job explaining it on their website. Again I'm not trying to sell their stuff but I like them. They really make towing the CJ much more comfortable than pulling from the bumper. Remember, you can't back up when flat towing and you should make sure the towbar is as level as possible for safety. You should also remove your rear driveshaft to prevent output bearing problems on your transfer case. Rich Harris :1986 CJ7, Detroits F/R, 4:10's, 33"BFGMT's, Mopar F/I, 4.0L head, Rubicon Express 2.5" Wrangler springs, Procomp MX6 Shocks, and a bunch more fun stuff. Hello everyone, I have a question about my 89 Wrangler. I was going to buy a tow bar for the front bumper, but was told by the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] wrangler? Thanks -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
#16
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I believe that is only necessary if you are going to drive it, with the rear drive shaft removed, not tow it. Earle I believe it was Jerry who stated that a WD40 cap fits right over the tailpiece of the transfer case and can be held on with a hose clamp. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] wrangler? Thanks |
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1
#17
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ok, I'm a little confused, I'm supposed to put the transfer case in neutral, makes sense to me, but put the tranny in gear??? I have a manual tranny, it would seem that would engage the motor and everything would be turning? Earle Horton wrote: I believe that is only necessary if you are going to drive it, with the rear drive shaft removed, not tow it. Earle I believe it was Jerry who stated that a WD40 cap fits right over the tailpiece of the transfer case and can be held on with a hose clamp. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] wrangler? Thanks -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
#18
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Not with the transfer case in neutral! The way I do it--Start up the engine, put the transfer case in neutral, then put the transmission in gear. Let out the clutch, and nothing happens. You are ready to be towed. Leave the key in the slot, but turn it so all the electrics go off, but the steering wheel turns freely. Don't worry, unless your front end is completely worn out, the wheels will follow your tow vehicle. Explanation of why this works. The transmission will burn out, if its output shaft is driven for any length of time, with the transmission in neutral. This is because the countershaft, which is engine driven, is what lubricates everything inside the transmission. It sits in the oil at the bottom of the transmission, and flings it all over, as soon as you start up the engine. Without this happening, you need to have the transmission in gear, so that nothing will turn. The transfer case, on the other hand, receives lubrication whenever the rear output shaft is turning. Earle ok, I'm a little confused, I'm supposed to put the transfer case in neutral, makes sense to me, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] wrangler? Thanks |
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1
#19
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ok, I get it now. I was assuming that with the tranny in gear all would be turning, but with the transfer case in Neutral, nothing happens at all. that makes sense to me. thanks for the help all. hopefully all will go smoothly, and no problems will arise. Earle Horton wrote: Not with the transfer case in neutral! The way I do it--Start up the engine, put the transfer case in neutral, then put the transmission in gear. Let out the clutch, and nothing happens. You are ready to be towed. Leave the key in the slot, but turn it so all the electrics go off, but the steering wheel turns freely. Don't worry, unless your front end is completely worn out, the wheels will follow your tow vehicle. Explanation of why this works. The transmission will burn out, if its output shaft is driven for any length of time, with the transmission in neutral. This is because the countershaft, which is engine driven, is what lubricates everything inside the transmission. It sits in the oil at the bottom of the transmission, and flings it all over, as soon as you start up the engine. Without this happening, you need to have the transmission in gear, so that nothing will turn. The transfer case, on the other hand, receives lubrication whenever the rear output shaft is turning. Earle ok, I'm a little confused, I'm supposed to put the transfer case in neutral, makes sense to me, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] wrangler? Thanks -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
#20
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Not with the transfer case in neutral! The way I do it--Start up the engine, put the transfer case in neutral, then put the transmission in gear. Let out the clutch, and nothing happens. You are ready to be towed. Leave the key in the slot, but turn it so all the electrics go off, but the steering wheel turns freely. Don't worry, unless your front end is completely worn out, the wheels will follow your tow vehicle. Explanation of why this works. The transmission will burn out, if its output shaft is driven for any length of time, with the transmission in neutral. This is because the countershaft, which is engine driven, is what lubricates everything inside the transmission. It sits in the oil at the bottom of the transmission, and flings it all over, as soon as you start up the engine. Without this happening, you need to have the transmission in gear, so that nothing will turn. The transfer case, on the other hand, receives lubrication whenever the rear output shaft is turning. Earle "RiverRunner via CarKB.com" <u20952@uwe> wrote in message news:5efd934032185 (AT) uwe (DOT) .. ok, I'm a little confused, I'm supposed to put the transfer case in neutral, makes sense to me, but put the tranny in gear??? I have a manual tranny, it would seem that would engage the motor and everything would be turning? Earle Horton wrote: I believe that is only necessary if you are going to drive it, with the rear drive shaft removed, not tow it. Earle I believe it was Jerry who stated that a WD40 cap fits right over the tailpiece of the transfer case and can be held on with a hose clamp. [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] wrangler? Thanks -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200604/1 |
forget. Also, Do not try to back up with the vehicle hooked to the tow
vehicle. this may cause harm to everything.
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