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#1
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#2
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Anyone know what's involved in upgrading an R12 LS400 to R134a? Or is there a better way (substitute gas, etc) Thanks |
#3
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You could hear a pin drop when the almighty "ib" <ib (AT) o2 (DOT) co.uk addressed his adoring fans with these immortal words: Anyone know what's involved in upgrading an R12 LS400 to R134a? Or is there a better way (substitute gas, etc) Thanks have a local A/C repair shop check their MACS (I believe it's called). It lists every vehicle that has R12 refrigerant and what it takes to convert to R134A. Some only require seal changes and a complete flush of the cooling system. Other cars require replacement of the evaporator tank, compressor, etc. Consequently, it can be as cheap as a $100 or as expensive as a thousand dollars (or more). But at a minimum, the seals must be replaced because the molecules for R134A are half the size of R12 and even the smallest (existing) leak will lead R134A twice as fast. Whatever you do, you MUST *completely* flush out the R12 refrigerant (not just drain), as the two gasses are not compatible and will permanently destroy your a/c if they're mixed together AT ALL. Which begs the question, why do you want to convert? R12, although expensive, is much more efficient at cooling than R134A. If you have an efficient system with no leaks, I'd stick with the R12. R12 is illegal, isn't it, and discontinued many years ago? |
#4
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kegler (AT) bowling (DOT) net> wrote in message news:rhjo82hkdnabjqihff4t12t6kc4v5maovf (AT) 4ax (DOT) com... You could hear a pin drop when the almighty "ib" <ib (AT) o2 (DOT) co.uk addressed his adoring fans with these immortal words: Anyone know what's involved in upgrading an R12 LS400 to R134a? Or is there a better way (substitute gas, etc) Thanks have a local A/C repair shop check their MACS (I believe it's called). It lists every vehicle that has R12 refrigerant and what it takes to convert to R134A. Some only require seal changes and a complete flush of the cooling system. Other cars require replacement of the evaporator tank, compressor, etc. Consequently, it can be as cheap as a $100 or as expensive as a thousand dollars (or more). But at a minimum, the seals must be replaced because the molecules for R134A are half the size of R12 and even the smallest (existing) leak will lead R134A twice as fast. Whatever you do, you MUST *completely* flush out the R12 refrigerant (not just drain), as the two gasses are not compatible and will permanently destroy your a/c if they're mixed together AT ALL. Which begs the question, why do you want to convert? R12, although expensive, is much more efficient at cooling than R134A. If you have an efficient system with no leaks, I'd stick with the R12. R12 is illegal, isn't it, and discontinued many years ago? |
#5
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| R12 is illegal, isn't it, and discontinued many years ago? True, sort of... it is just no longer manufactured (legally), and can't be |
#6
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"ib" <ib (AT) o2 (DOT) co.uk> wrote in message news:80_ig.18617$x53.10464 (AT) newsfe1-win (DOT) ntli.net... R12 is illegal, isn't it, and discontinued many years ago? True, sort of... it is just no longer manufactured (legally), and can't be used in new applications... at least in the US. Shops are required to collect (and save) it during conversions, but it CAN be reused. They must NOT refill it into a system with a leak. The leak must FIRST be identified and fixed. And if you are at a shop with a unit that is not getting cold, it is ASSUMED there MUST be a leak. They insert a UV dye into the existing system and look for leaks. Many times it is just due to seepage at the component joints over time. It is NOT cheap however; I believe about $50/lb a couple of years ago.. only to get even more expensive. If an obvious leak can't be identified, it is pretty much a toss up on the cost of a conversion or refill (boost). As stated before, a conversion requires no major part replacements other than some seals. I had it done a few years ago for $200, and it is still working just fine. |
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