Trunk lock

This may help someone who runs into the same problem. I have a 92LS400. I
tried to use my key to open my trunk but although the key could be totally
inserted, it wouldn't turn. I used a squirt of silicone lubricant with its
thin tube into the lock and it started working immediatly.



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"Randy Taylor" <randyt (AT) zoominternet (DOT) net> wrote

This may help someone who runs into the same problem. I have a 92LS400. I
tried to use my key to open my trunk but although the key could be totally
inserted, it wouldn't turn. I used a squirt of silicone lubricant with its
thin tube into the lock and it started working immediatly.

Silicone lubricant may eventually gum up the lock. Use graphite lubricant
like Lock-Ease instead.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

"Randy Taylor" <randyt (AT) zoominternet (DOT) net> wrote

This may help someone who runs into the same problem. I have a 92LS400. I
tried to use my key to open my trunk but although the key could be totally
inserted, it wouldn't turn. I used a squirt of silicone lubricant with its
thin tube into the lock and it started working immediatly.

My 90LS400 sporadically has the same problem. I have tried graphite, but it
doesn't seem to address the issue. Sometimes if I remove the key and
reinsert it 180 degrees (i.e., flip the key over), it works ... sometimes
not. I 'think' the problem is worse in the winter, but I wouldn't swear to
that. I just use the inside release (which ALWAYS works) and live with the
issue. Report back if you happen to find a simpler solution.

"Jerohm" <jDrEmLoEhTrE (AT) snet (DOT) net> wrote

"Randy Taylor" <randyt (AT) zoominternet (DOT) net> wrote in message
news:1143735443_889 (AT) sp6iad (DOT) superfeed.net...
This may help someone who runs into the same problem. I have a 92LS400. I
tried to use my key to open my trunk but although the key could be
totally inserted, it wouldn't turn. I used a squirt of silicone lubricant
with its thin tube into the lock and it started working immediatly.

My 90LS400 sporadically has the same problem. I have tried graphite, but
it doesn't seem to address the issue. Sometimes if I remove the key and
reinsert it 180 degrees (i.e., flip the key over), it works ... sometimes
not. I 'think' the problem is worse in the winter, but I wouldn't swear
to that. I just use the inside release (which ALWAYS works) and live with
the issue. Report back if you happen to find a simpler solution.

Having to turn the key 180 degrees is an indication that the pins in the
lock cylinder may be worn. I have had excellent results with Lock-Ease in
aerosol cans.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote

Having to turn the key 180 degrees is an indication that the pins in the
lock cylinder may be worn. I have had excellent results with Lock-Ease in
aerosol cans.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Gee thanks, I WILL try that ... just using the inside release, it is NOT
that big of an issue FOR ME
Thanks again.

"Jerohm" <jDrEmLoEhTrE (AT) snet (DOT) net> wrote

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote in message
news:b17b8$442c4761$44a4a10d$25193 (AT) msgid (DOT) meganewsservers.com...


Having to turn the key 180 degrees is an indication that the pins in the
lock cylinder may be worn. I have had excellent results with Lock-Ease
in aerosol cans.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


Gee thanks, I WILL try that ... just using the inside release, it is NOT
that big of an issue FOR ME
Thanks again.

The inside release on my 2000 LS 400 is electrically operated, and I keep my
jumper cables in the trunk. If the battery is dead, then the electrically
operated inside release will not work, and if the key also doesn't work,
then I'm in trouble. The same is true if the keyless entry doesn't work and
the key doesn't work in the door lock.

The principle behind this is very similar to the principle behind a flat
tire - the only time you ever get a flat tire is if you have somewhere to
go, never when you have nowhere to go. With my luck, the key would not work
in the door and trunk lock if the battery is dead, so I always keep the lock
cylinders lubed with Lock-Ease, even if I never use the key in the door or
trunk.

The aerosol Lock-ease comes in a short can about the size of a sample can of
shaving cream or those little cans of spray paint. The reason I do not
recommend penetrating oil, WD-40, silicone, or other lubricant in an
automotive lock cylinder is that I don't really know if it works or not. I
do know that the Lock-Ease does work.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote

The inside release on my 2000 LS 400 is electrically operated, and I keep
my jumper cables in the trunk. If the battery is dead, then the
electrically operated inside release will not work, and if the key also
doesn't work, then I'm in trouble. The same is true if the keyless entry
doesn't work and the key doesn't work in the door lock.

The principle behind this is very similar to the principle behind a flat
tire - the only time you ever get a flat tire is if you have somewhere to
go, never when you have nowhere to go. With my luck, the key would not
work in the door and trunk lock if the battery is dead, so I always keep
the lock cylinders lubed with Lock-Ease, even if I never use the key in
the door or trunk.

The aerosol Lock-ease comes in a short can about the size of a sample can
of shaving cream or those little cans of spray paint. The reason I do not
recommend penetrating oil, WD-40, silicone, or other lubricant in an
automotive lock cylinder is that I don't really know if it works or not.
I do know that the Lock-Ease does work.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


Point well taken ... I guess I never thought about it and always kinda

ASSUMED the inside release on the 1990LS was a cable. I know there is a
additional release for the gas tank behind the medical kit. Maybe I have
been running on borrowed time!

"Jerohm" <jDrEmLoEhTrE (AT) snet (DOT) net> wrote

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote in message
news:96a17$442c6b67$44a4a10d$26304 (AT) msgid (DOT) meganewsservers.com...

The inside release on my 2000 LS 400 is electrically operated, and I keep
my jumper cables in the trunk. If the battery is dead, then the
electrically operated inside release will not work, and if the key also
doesn't work, then I'm in trouble. The same is true if the keyless entry
doesn't work and the key doesn't work in the door lock.

The principle behind this is very similar to the principle behind a flat
tire - the only time you ever get a flat tire is if you have somewhere to
go, never when you have nowhere to go. With my luck, the key would not
work in the door and trunk lock if the battery is dead, so I always keep
the lock cylinders lubed with Lock-Ease, even if I never use the key in
the door or trunk.

The aerosol Lock-ease comes in a short can about the size of a sample can
of shaving cream or those little cans of spray paint. The reason I do
not recommend penetrating oil, WD-40, silicone, or other lubricant in an
automotive lock cylinder is that I don't really know if it works or not.
I do know that the Lock-Ease does work.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


Point well taken ... I guess I never thought about it and always kinda
ASSUMED the inside release on the 1990LS was a cable. I know there is a
additional release for the gas tank behind the medical kit. Maybe I have
been running on borrowed time!

I don't know if the trunk release on a 1990 LS is a cable or electrically
operated solenoid. A cable will take some effort to release, like the hood
release, while an electrically operated one takes about the same effort as
the power window switches. I'm pretty sure that the fuel door release is
also electrically operated on my car, with a mechanical backup cable in the
trunk.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)