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Fish
 
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Default pulsation on brake - 09-20-2006 , 07:50 PM






hi again folks,

our RX300 has a bad pulse on the front right wheel. last summer i
turned the rotor and the pulse disappeared for a few months, but now
its back! what is recommended? A new rotor, or a new hub?

Thank you
Tom


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  #2  
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NYLexSC
 
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Default Re: pulsation on brake - 09-20-2006 , 10:57 PM







Have the rotor resurfaced, can do this usually for like $20 a rotor. If
it comes back again, then replace the rotor.


--
NYLexSC



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Ray O
 
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Default Re: pulsation on brake - 09-20-2006 , 11:10 PM




"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:
hi again folks,

our RX300 has a bad pulse on the front right wheel. last summer i
turned the rotor and the pulse disappeared for a few months, but now
its back! what is recommended? A new rotor, or a new hub?

Thank you
Tom

In my experience, brake rotors that have been turned to eliminate brake
pulsation will usually cause pulsation a short time later.

Check the rotor runout - if it is not true, then I recommend replacing both
front rotors instead of machining them.

Also, check the caliper slides to make sure they are not stuck, and use a
torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to approx. 75 ft-lbs.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)




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  #4  
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Fish
 
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Default Re: pulsation on brake - 09-22-2006 , 07:51 PM



Ray,

Again, thanks, excellent advice. Actually I had previous vehicles
that had brakes that stuck, so i filed the groove out a little better
and never had the problem recur.

Tom



On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 23:10:43 -0500, "Ray O"
<rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:

Quote:
"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:i2o3h25f6opukq798c6i6jtqarsi20pgg8 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
hi again folks,

our RX300 has a bad pulse on the front right wheel. last summer i
turned the rotor and the pulse disappeared for a few months, but now
its back! what is recommended? A new rotor, or a new hub?

Thank you
Tom


In my experience, brake rotors that have been turned to eliminate brake
pulsation will usually cause pulsation a short time later.

Check the rotor runout - if it is not true, then I recommend replacing both
front rotors instead of machining them.

Also, check the caliper slides to make sure they are not stuck, and use a
torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to approx. 75 ft-lbs.


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  #5  
Old   
Ray O
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: pulsation on brake - 09-22-2006 , 08:01 PM




"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:
Ray,

Again, thanks, excellent advice. Actually I had previous vehicles
that had brakes that stuck, so i filed the groove out a little better
and never had the problem recur.

Tom
Tom,

The caliper slides are the sleeves that the bolts that hold the caliper body
in place pass through. The bolts should be shiny clean and lubed with
either caliper grease, wheel bearing grease, or anti-seize. The bolts pass
through sleeves in the caliper body, and you should be able to push the
sleeves in and out of both sides of the caliper body up to the limit of the
rubber boots that hold the sleeves in place. People often clean up the
bolts but forget the sleeves. If the sleeves do not move freely, carefully
pull back the boots and see if you can use a dowl to push them out and get
the inner and outer diameter cleaned up and lubed with the same stuff you
use on the bolts.

The keyway that the square tabs on the pads sit in should also be clean - I
use a wire brush in a Dremel tool to clean up the keyway. The danger of
using a file to enlarge the keyway is that you can get a clicking or
knocking noise when you apply the brakes or when you change direction and
apply the brakes. While it is not dangerous, it is annoying, and the tab on
the pads can jam in the keyway and eventually cause a pulsation. I have
seen this problem with some aftermarket pads, which is one more reason I
always recommend OEM brake parts.

I know that people often use aftermarket parts because they perceive them to
be of similar or equal quality to OEM parts for less money, but in my
experience, the way that aftermarket parts fit and perform is hit-or-miss -
an aftermarket brand can be great on some applications and terrible in
another, so if Acme widgets worked great in your Corolla, they may not be so
great in your Camry. I sometimes use aftermarket parts, but stick to OEM
for brake parts, ignition parts, and oil filters.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Quote:


On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 23:10:43 -0500, "Ray O"
rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:


"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:i2o3h25f6opukq798c6i6jtqarsi20pgg8 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
hi again folks,

our RX300 has a bad pulse on the front right wheel. last summer i
turned the rotor and the pulse disappeared for a few months, but now
its back! what is recommended? A new rotor, or a new hub?

Thank you
Tom


In my experience, brake rotors that have been turned to eliminate brake
pulsation will usually cause pulsation a short time later.

Check the rotor runout - if it is not true, then I recommend replacing
both
front rotors instead of machining them.

Also, check the caliper slides to make sure they are not stuck, and use a
torque wrench to tighten lug nuts to approx. 75 ft-lbs.




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  #6  
Old   
Fish
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: pulsation on brake - 09-25-2006 , 09:33 PM



I read you on this one Ray.

Thanks.

On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 20:01:47 -0500, "Ray O"
<rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:

Quote:
"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:rt09h2l4unb4fspovpehb6mjik47drrvu2 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
Ray,

Again, thanks, excellent advice. Actually I had previous vehicles
that had brakes that stuck, so i filed the groove out a little better
and never had the problem recur.

Tom

Tom,

The caliper slides are the sleeves that the bolts that hold the caliper body
in place pass through. The bolts should be shiny clean and lubed with
either caliper grease, wheel bearing grease, or anti-seize. The bolts pass
through sleeves in the caliper body, and you should be able to push the
sleeves in and out of both sides of the caliper body up to the limit of the
rubber boots that hold the sleeves in place. People often clean up the
bolts but forget the sleeves. If the sleeves do not move freely, carefully
pull back the boots and see if you can use a dowl to push them out and get
the inner and outer diameter cleaned up and lubed with the same stuff you
use on the bolts.

The keyway that the square tabs on the pads sit in should also be clean - I
use a wire brush in a Dremel tool to clean up the keyway. The danger of
using a file to enlarge the keyway is that you can get a clicking or
knocking noise when you apply the brakes or when you change direction and
apply the brakes. While it is not dangerous, it is annoying, and the tab on
the pads can jam in the keyway and eventually cause a pulsation. I have
seen this problem with some aftermarket pads, which is one more reason I
always recommend OEM brake parts.

I know that people often use aftermarket parts because they perceive them to
be of similar or equal quality to OEM parts for less money, but in my
experience, the way that aftermarket parts fit and perform is hit-or-miss -
an aftermarket brand can be great on some applications and terrible in
another, so if Acme widgets worked great in your Corolla, they may not be so
great in your Camry. I sometimes use aftermarket parts, but stick to OEM
for brake parts, ignition parts, and oil filters.


Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old   
Ray O
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: pulsation on brake - 09-25-2006 , 11:03 PM




"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:
I read you on this one Ray.

Thanks.
You're welcome, and good luck with the diagnosis and fix!
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Quote:
On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 20:01:47 -0500, "Ray O"
rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:


"Fish" <fishingrod45 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:rt09h2l4unb4fspovpehb6mjik47drrvu2 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
Ray,

Again, thanks, excellent advice. Actually I had previous vehicles
that had brakes that stuck, so i filed the groove out a little better
and never had the problem recur.

Tom

Tom,

The caliper slides are the sleeves that the bolts that hold the caliper
body
in place pass through. The bolts should be shiny clean and lubed with
either caliper grease, wheel bearing grease, or anti-seize. The bolts
pass
through sleeves in the caliper body, and you should be able to push the
sleeves in and out of both sides of the caliper body up to the limit of
the
rubber boots that hold the sleeves in place. People often clean up the
bolts but forget the sleeves. If the sleeves do not move freely,
carefully
pull back the boots and see if you can use a dowl to push them out and get
the inner and outer diameter cleaned up and lubed with the same stuff you
use on the bolts.

The keyway that the square tabs on the pads sit in should also be clean -
I
use a wire brush in a Dremel tool to clean up the keyway. The danger of
using a file to enlarge the keyway is that you can get a clicking or
knocking noise when you apply the brakes or when you change direction and
apply the brakes. While it is not dangerous, it is annoying, and the tab
on
the pads can jam in the keyway and eventually cause a pulsation. I have
seen this problem with some aftermarket pads, which is one more reason I
always recommend OEM brake parts.

I know that people often use aftermarket parts because they perceive them
to
be of similar or equal quality to OEM parts for less money, but in my
experience, the way that aftermarket parts fit and perform is
hit-or-miss -
an aftermarket brand can be great on some applications and terrible in
another, so if Acme widgets worked great in your Corolla, they may not be
so
great in your Camry. I sometimes use aftermarket parts, but stick to OEM
for brake parts, ignition parts, and oil filters.




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