hello again,
having looked at the master cylinder it requires replaceing: it is a 1981
mini pickup with drums all round, with a BLACK plastic identification band
on it (type 2 tandem)

The only replacement is the type 3 tandem with the yellow ID tag. Haynes
manual states that thie type 3 (1985 on) has a stepped bore and primary and
secondary circuits have been reversed.

Does this mean if i retro fit a type 3 i have to put the top brake line to
the bottom hole and the bottom to the top ?

if not please explain A) how to tell the primary and secondary circuits from
looking at the master cylinder and B) which is primary - front or rear
brakes?

I need to work on this quick as i wanted it MoT'd by end of month - all that
is left is the excessive brake pedal movement - ie nearly to the floor. I
realise it has no servo and the brakes are adjusted and good shoes etc.

any help most appreciated.

RS

I just had the same problem, yes put the original top pipe in the bottom
hole and the original bottom pipe in the top hole, BLEED thoroughly. there
is a leaflet in the new master cylinder box that explains all this


"RS" <l400ras (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

I'm having exactly the same problem - but I have stripped mine right
down to the shell - so I've nothing to 'swap'. I'm having to start from
scratch.

So.

I think I have discovered that using the yellow tagged stepped bore
M/C...

the top outlets (10mm) goes to the fronts and this is called the
secondary circuit.

The bottom outlet (12mm) goes to the rears, and is called the primary
circuit.

If all the info I have collected is correct.

Can anyone confirm this please before I do the plumbing.

Thanks

Peter

dont both pipes go to the compensator on the left side

"Pedro" <peter.steckles (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

"jacko" wrote in message
they do, the compensator valve splits the braking force 75% front 25% to
stop the rears from locking up. ie you have to plumb it in correctly. you
do not want 75% braking at the rear... or do i....? would be interesting
on wet/ icy roads....

RS

Thanks for the tips Jacko and RS.

I have been reading Keith Calver's advice on front / rear split braking
systems, and the problems some have with the pressure regulator valve
(FM7821)

http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatago...2/ArticleV.cfm

Hope the link works...

He recommends scrapping this unit and instead either fitting an MS72
adjustable regulator / bias valve if you can get hold of one (which I
couldn't) or modifying a rear brake proportioning valve (the one that
sits on the rear subframe) to make it adjustable.

He suggests fitting the adjustable unit on the rear circuit under the
bonnet fixed somehwre convenient on the bulkhead with a tee on the rear
subby and this is what I plan to do.

As I said, I think I have identified that on the yellow banded M/C, the
top (smaller 10mm) outlet feeds the fronts and the bottom (larger
12mm) outlet feeds the rears.

One or two on this NG have talked about this modification in the past.

If I have this wrong or if anyone has done this mod sucessfully I would
be grateful for your views.

Best wishes.

Peter

I think the MS72 is out of production but there is one in the catalogue
below described as a "brake proportioning valve" looking closely it appears
to be made by Ford Racing. .

http://www.nfauto.co.uk/download/cataloguejuly2005.pdf

This shows you how to make one if you have one of the proportioning valves
fitted under the rear subframe.

http://hometown.aol.com/dvandrews/bpvalve.htm


Cheers

Peter

"Pedro" <peter.steckles (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

ayID/942/ArticleV.cfm