Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages
although I believe the cause has been changing.
My 1275HLE Clubman 1982 has a tandem type master cylinder with a front/
back split. What Haynes calls "Later" version.

Symptom: pedal goes all the way to the floor the first time. Even
pumping once raises the pedal height giving me good brakes once only.

Each time after bleeding (done this countless times with auto kit and
manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up but
eventually fades after few brake tests.

I had leaks at some wheels but have fixed this by replacing most
cylinders.
I had the carpet leak and bought a master cylinder kit but was only
able to replace the main seals.
I was not able to remove the smaller piston where Haynes simply says
remove big hexagonal screw and take out piston.
I removed the screw, but the piston wouldn't come out. Could it be
siezed or is there some trick. I didn't see any "stop pin" like the
one on the main.
Could this be my problem or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Pleeaaaase help me someone.

Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982)

Just to add to what i said previously, so as not to waste too much of
your time.
I did remove the switch from the master when bleeding. The plastic
thread is slightly stripped, but sitch sits in place when screwed back
in.
I bleed them in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far Front,
Near Front.

It's possible that there is something wrong with the pressure
differential valve that you couldn't remove. It could be frozen. It's
hard to say but let's assume that it's ok.

The tandem master cylinders are very difficult to bleed. They will
retain air quite easily. The best procedure is to bench bleed the
cylinder but you can do something similar with the master cylinder in
the car. You will need to make some outlet tubes that are short
versions of the normal outlets, maybe 2 or 3 cm. long tubing. To these
short pieces of metal tubing attach pieces of clear plastic tubing and
route them into the fluid reservoir. The ends of these tubes should
almost reach the bottom of the reservoir. With all this assembled pump
the pedal slowly until all of the air bubbles disappears from the
tubes. This can take a long time so be patient.

When your sure the master cylinder is free of air reconnect the brake
lines and bleed the system. The order you have listed appears correct.

Good luck,

Cheers,

Kelley

On 15 Mar 2007 09:30:21 -0700, angelon (AT) absa (DOT) co.za wrote:

On 15 Mar 2007 09:02:01 -0700, angelon (AT) absa (DOT) co.za wrote:


A little trick you might like to try; it's worked for me. Pump the brake
pedal until it's as hard as you can get it, then use a block of wood or
similar to wedge it down overnight. It costs nothing and can't hurt to
try!
Seems it forces the air to the highest point, ie the master cylinder
reservoir.
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1979 Ford Capri---
-----1957 Standard 8--------1972 Mini Clubman estate-----
-----1966 Triumph Herald Estate----1965 Hillman Minx-----

angelon (AT) absa (DOT) co.za wrote:
One other thing to check as that your drum brakes are adjusted properly
as this will affect pedal travel. You might also want to look over the
calipers on the front brakes (assuming you have them), I have had rust
on the anti squeal shims that have caused similar problems to that
described.

-anthony

hi agree with all the replies you have but would think a new master
cylinder is in order if non of those things work i dont have a lot of
faith in the seal kit hard to tell if the bore is spot on hope you
sort it

"angelon" wrote:
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frank133 wrote:


As has been suggested check the adjustments in the rear brakes or get a
new set of drums.

Not a new M/C.

rm