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Clutch master cylinder
Mini Discussion of English Mini automobiles (alt.autos.mini)
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#1
 
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Clutch master cylinder -
05-12-2007
, 07:57 PM
#2
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Judging by the wetness of the push rod on the clutch master cylinder of my '78 Clubman, it looks like I need to overhaul the master cylinder and therefore need to remove it. The Black Book says, in its usual disarming simplicity, to "1. Disconnect the pedal lever from the push-rod". Having spent a few hours trying to get off what appears to be a clip on the collet connecting the two, I'm thinking there must be a trick to this. Is there? Actually, I want to get both master cylinders off so I can strip the engine bay for painting anyway. Thanks in advance, Graham Oh you lucky man! A bitch of a job! Recommend you remove seat and |
flexible as a Russian gymnast!
There should be a small split-pin going through the end of the clevis
pin at the top of the pedal, which you need to remove using long-nosed
pliers - access to that area is bad enough on an automatic, but near-
impossible on a manual. You can then push the clevis pin out sideways if
you move the pedal just enough to relieve the pressure.
Getting it back in is even more frustrating!
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1979 Ford Capri---
-----1957 Standard 8--------1972 Mini Clubman estate-----
-----1966 Triumph Herald Estate----1965 Hillman Minx-----
#3
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Judging by the wetness of the push rod on the clutch master cylinder of my '78 Clubman, it looks like I need to overhaul the master cylinder and therefore need to remove it. The Black Book says, in its usual disarming simplicity, to "1. Disconnect the pedal lever from the push-rod". Having spent a few hours trying to get off what appears to be a clip on the collet connecting the two, I'm thinking there must be a trick to this. Is there? Actually, I want to get both master cylinders off so I can strip the engine bay for painting anyway. Thanks in advance, Graham On a '78 mini, the pedal is connected to the push-rod fork of the master |
stop it falling out. It's a hell of a job to get the split-pin out.
You'll need to take the air-intake hose off the heater to give you
enough space. Try to get your hand in to straighten the split pin
(which will probably cut the ends of your fingers), and then use a pair
of long-nosed pliers to pull it out. Once the split-pin is out you can
usually wiggle the pedal and push out the clevis pin.
Putting it all back is, as Haynes used to say, the inverse process.
Except that if anything, it's even more fiddly!
--
Chris Morriss
#4
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Oh you lucky man! A bitch of a job! Recommend you remove seat and steering wheel to improve access, unless you are only 4'6" tall and as flexible as a Russian gymnast! There should be a small split-pin going through the end of the clevis pin at the top of the pedal, which you need to remove using long-nosed pliers - access to that area is bad enough on an automatic, but near- impossible on a manual. You can then push the clevis pin out sideways if you move the pedal just enough to relieve the pressure. Getting it back in is even more frustrating! -- Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email) ---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1979 Ford Capri--- -----1957 Standard 8--------1972 Mini Clubman estate----- -----1966 Triumph Herald Estate----1965 Hillman Minx----- |
Graham
#5
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On a '78 mini, the pedal is connected to the push-rod fork of the master cylinder by a clevis pin, with a split-pin through the clevis pin to stop it falling out. It's a hell of a job to get the split-pin out. You'll need to take the air-intake hose off the heater to give you enough space. Try to get your hand in to straighten the split pin (which will probably cut the ends of your fingers), and then use a pair of long-nosed pliers to pull it out. Once the split-pin is out you can usually wiggle the pedal and push out the clevis pin. Putting it all back is, as Haynes used to say, the inverse process. Except that if anything, it's even more fiddly! -- Chris Morriss |
column out as well. I've managed to get a loop of wire throught the eye of
the split pin which should make them easy to get out once I've straightened
the pin. I might even fix a wire handle onto the boss end of the clevis
pins to get them back in. Looks like I better get the Vallium in for
tomorrow then.
Thanks Chris
#6
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On a '78 mini, the pedal is connected to the push-rod fork of the master cylinder by a clevis pin, with a split-pin through the clevis pin to stop it falling out. It's a hell of a job to get the split-pin out. You'll need to take the air-intake hose off the heater to give you enough space. Try to get your hand in to straighten the split pin (which will probably cut the ends of your fingers), and then use a pair of long-nosed pliers to pull it out. Once the split-pin is out you can usually wiggle the pedal and push out the clevis pin. Putting it all back is, as Haynes used to say, the inverse process. Except that if anything, it's even more fiddly! -- Chris Morriss The seats are out, the heater duct is out, and I will get the steering column out as well. I've managed to get a loop of wire throught the eye of the split pin which should make them easy to get out once I've straightened the pin. I might even fix a wire handle onto the boss end of the clevis pins to get them back in. Looks like I better get the Vallium in for tomorrow then. Thanks Chris |
more hours today, I finally found removing the heater box was the clue. One
clevis pin was held by a split pin, the other by a spring clip. Spring
clip's a better idea.
Wrapping wire loop around the end of the clevis pin before withdrawing them
completely saved me from losing the pins, by the way.
G.
Quote:
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#7
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"GrahamL" <grahamlyons (AT) internode (DOT) ton.net> wrote in message news:134e1fu41t1ds66 (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com... On a '78 mini, the pedal is connected to the push-rod fork of the master cylinder by a clevis pin, with a split-pin through the clevis pin to stop it falling out. It's a hell of a job to get the split-pin out. You'll need to take the air-intake hose off the heater to give you enough space. Try to get your hand in to straighten the split pin (which will probably cut the ends of your fingers), and then use a pair of long-nosed pliers to pull it out. Once the split-pin is out you can usually wiggle the pedal and push out the clevis pin. Putting it all back is, as Haynes used to say, the inverse process. Except that if anything, it's even more fiddly! -- Chris Morriss The seats are out, the heater duct is out, and I will get the steering column out as well. I've managed to get a loop of wire throught the eye of the split pin which should make them easy to get out once I've straightened the pin. I might even fix a wire handle onto the boss end of the clevis pins to get them back in. Looks like I better get the Vallium in for tomorrow then. Thanks Chris Well, so much for the plans of mice and men. After battling for several more hours today, I finally found removing the heater box was the clue. One clevis pin was held by a split pin, the other by a spring clip. Spring clip's a better idea. Wrapping wire loop around the end of the clevis pin before withdrawing them completely saved me from losing the pins, by the way. G. |
#8
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Its a Zen thing really. Whilst lying there on your back, with the cross member digging in to your spine, after an hour or so, you develop a trance like state and you just 'think' the clevis pin out... I have pondered a better replacement, or a panel in the bulkhead to allow easier access, but I haven't come up with anything yet. I used an R clip when I replaced mine. Or simply bend one leg of the split pin so you don't have a mild steel knot to 'untie' next time. Its a rite of passage I think. Good luck P Peter, |
Actually, the brake clevis pin was the real challenge. Getting the split
pin out was a breeze but fluid has been leaking down the push rod for a long
time and the clevis pin was rusted in. After soaking the clevis pin with
some super-duper penetrating, oil I managed to sneek a drift in over the
clutch pedal and then, after giving it a tickle with the blowtorch, hit it
with a big hammer and out popped the clevis pin. So, not bad for a week's
work really!
Another rite of passage ticked off.
G.
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