yes they can, dependent on the year of the Metro, but to maintian the
integrity of the wheel track you have to reforge the top arms by heating and
cranking upwards by 1.3 to 1.4 degrees. Don't fit negative camber bottom
arms, it will throw everything out even more.

I fitted 1988 MG Metro discs to Lis's car, running on 13's. And this is how
we did it and the cars drives like its on rails and handle better that it
did on 10's. Except of course for the tendancy for the wheels to track in
road rutts...but then In NZ we don't have the M1 with all the big trucks
wearing the groves into the left hand lanes! Dam things threw me when We
were in the UK first time I struck them!
"Fitzy" <peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote

Hello my Kiwi friend,
how are you doing these days, how is the NZ winter this year,
Thanks for the info on the metro hub conversion,
so you bend the top arm aprox 1. degree,
I can handle that Tim, but I'm not to keen on heating any suspension
components, I have seen some items snap after heat treatment,
how long ago did you do Lis's car, and do you still have it,
I suppose some of your NZ unsealed roads would be the ultimate test,
Fitzy


"Tim" <tim_lis(NOSPAM)@clear.net.nz> wrote

The brakes are an excellent upgrade but you want to steer clear of the metro
hubs. Because of the metro's different geometry you have to fit negative
camber bottom arms just to get the wheels back to normal!

Best bet is to use the mini hub with the metro vented disc and drive
flange - and obviously the metro caliper. You will also need a set of
'mini-to-metro' brake pipes as the metro calipers have two flexihoses on
each caliper. Minispares do a kit
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=35514 . It all bolts up to the
std mini hub no problem. You may need 13's though. Mine were under a set
of 13" 4spoke revo's. EBC greenstuff best for fast road, heard pagid or
mintex better for trackdays. I used unipart pads, never had any probs on
the track - was using a remote servo though so may have hidden extra effort
needed.

I would advise fitting uprated tie bars if fitting venteds, there is a lot
more stress going through this. Mini's tend to weave under hhhhhard braking
anyway.

Chris

"Fitzy" <peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote

Thanks Chris
I will report back during the week, and let you know what decisions I have
made,
Fitzy


"Chris" <karen.christiaan (AT) NOSPAMbtinternet (DOT) com> wrote

we built her car in 1998, done 45K now and never and issue. Don't just spot
heat the arms, you have to do it in a forge so the whole structure is
heated.

and its not the unsealed roads that are the issue, its you mad poms in
camper vans out siteseeing and blocking the lanes thats the real issue !
"Fitzy" <peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote

Mad poms in campervans, blocking lanes, you must be joking Tim, ;-)
I could drive for hours at a time over there Tim, without seeing another
car,LOL
I remember reading a sign, UNSEALED ROAD AHEAD, we all looked at each other,
shrugged shoulders and said in unison, WHAT'S ONE OF THOSE,
we soon found out when we went straight off the
smooth road surface on to the aggregate foundation,
and disappeared,leaving a cloud of dust, just like John Wayne in a western,
Good fun though Tim,
Regards
Fitzy

"Tim" <tim_lis(NOSPAM)@clear.net.nz> wrote

A quick update,,,,,,
Fitted brake pipe conversions to metro 4 pot callipers, also fitted metro
hubs and back plates, fitted some vented discs, bleed the system,
and what a difference it makes,,,,,,,,,,,,
brilliant stopping power,
Thanks for all the help and advice Folks,
Fitzy


"Fitzy" <peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote